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ROUGH idle

 
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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 20 Feb 2012, 09:36 pm
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Sacramento, Ca
Posts: 20
Exclamation ROUGH idle

Ok, the saga continues.
04 Cruiser, non turbo. 64K miles.
Had bad lag/sputter. Especially at idle.
No codes being thrown.
Had this issue before about two tears ago. Replaced Cam sensor.

Have since done the folloowing: Another camshaft sensor, crank sensor, new plugs and wires gapped @40. Idle air controller, (oil sending unit, different issue).

So today I put the new camshaft sensor in. The lag / sputter went away but now I have an incredibly rough idle.
SO I decided to check the plugs and wires, #3 was loosley connected at the top so I put it back in and the idle got worse. Checked gap and all plug wires, put it back together and still have the rough idle.

I also cleaned the PCV valve. Cannot figure out why the rough idle now but no sputter and lag. The idle is so hard that I dont even want to pull it down thr driveway.

Any suggestions. And thanks Crewzin for all of your help already.
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Old 21 Feb 2012, 01:03 am
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: oak creek, wi
Posts: 972
Default Re: ROUGH idle

try cleaning your iac and throttle body. also wouldn't hurt to look for a vacuum leak. i wish i had more answers.

i'm sure someone will come along with more suggestions.

my bad, didn't see that you already replaced your iac.
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Old 21 Feb 2012, 01:37 pm
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Default Re: ROUGH idle

Both are done. Still getting rough idle. So much so that I don't want to rive it to a shop. I have a mobile mech coming to check it out this afternoon. I"ll let you know what happens. Thanks for the input.
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Old 22 Feb 2012, 10:51 am
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Default Re: ROUGH idle

not to insult you but did you check to make sure the plug wires were put back in the correct order?
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Old 22 Feb 2012, 11:24 am
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Default Re: ROUGH idle

Quote:
Originally Posted by stan6406 View Post
not to insult you but did you check to make sure the plug wires were put back in the correct order?
NO insult taken. I did recheck that. This all started with a sputtering idle at stop signs and lights. It has now progressed to the car idling like a 1930's prop airplane.
Over the last 2 years I have replaced the cam and crank sensors, new plugs and wires. This weekend I cleaned the PCV and IAC. I decided to check the plug wires nad found the #3 plug wire was not on all the way. So I plugged it in after cleaning the coil tip and the end of the plug wire and started it up and it was worse. Now the miss is so obvious I am afraid to even drive it.

I have a mobile mech coming by today who missed our appointment yesterday due to a job going over. I'm gonna check the vaccuum hoses now and wait for him. But any other suggestions are greatly appreciated. I'd love to have it resolved before he gets here.
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Old 22 Feb 2012, 12:24 pm
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: near Tampa, Florida
Posts: 2,327
Default Re: ROUGH idle

1. What brand plugs and wires did you use? The one wire in particular would be suspect, since you said it got worse when you fiddled (technical jargon) with it. It could have broken down internally. I would have the mobile mechanic do an ohms resistance test on all four wires or better yet just replace them all now. If you're near a Chrysler dealer I would recommend the blue performance wires from them because they work fine and you wouldn't have to wait for shipping from an on-line vendor. As you already know ALMOST anything is better than stock black OEM wires. There are a couple of the aftermarket brands that are available from local parts chain stores that have a bad rep, but I'm having a brain fart right now and don't remember which ones. Maybe somebody can chime in with that info.

2. There are miles of vacuum lines in the PT. Take your time and check them all. Some have to be accessed by removeing the ac control bezel in the upper dash interior to check the lines going to the vacuum controlled components in that area.

3. If you didn't use OEM factory cam and crank sensors then you're tossing the dice as far as how long they last. Another thing related to the cam sensor is very infrequently the target magnet will have to be replaced along with the sensor. It's very, very seldom that it happens happens, but I have heard of a couple instances. You can see the one screw that holds the target magnet in when you remove the sensor. Make sure the locating dowels on the back of the magnet are in the proper position (lined up with the holes in the camshaft) when installing the new magnet.

If I can think of anything else, I'll come back and bore everybody with more endless drivel.

Jerry
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Last edited by wwpptc; 22 Feb 2012 at 12:26 pm.
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Old 22 Feb 2012, 04:22 pm
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Default Re: ROUGH idle

On a whim I replaced instead of just cleaning the PCV Valve. It now is starting up and running with a very slight hitch in the giddyup. Not perfect yet but driveable.

Waiting for the mech to look it over and diagnose. Thanks for all the help friends. And I also got Chrysler to refund and accept the return on the brand new camshaft sensor since I just bought one 17 months ago!
Jollanza likes this.
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Old 22 Feb 2012, 09:22 pm
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Location: Sacramento, Ca
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Talking Re: ROUGH idle

Well folks....it's the dog gone Ignition Coil. The mechanic came out and checked it out and when he had his hand on the coil and he touched the body of the car he got a HUGE zap. Said it has a short in it somewhere and recommended replacing it. I'm off to the auto parts store tomororw. Thanks again for all of the assistance and love!
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Old 22 Feb 2012, 10:07 pm
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Location: near Tampa, Florida
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Default Re: ROUGH idle

There is around 35,000 volts coming out of that coil when the engine is running. If he laid his sweaty hand on either pair of secondary leads on either side of the intake and then touched ground while the engine was running, it's very possable to get huge shock. That doesn't absolutely mean the coil is bad. Did he check the primary resistance? It should be around 0.50 to 0.60 ohms for the 2001 & 2002 PTs. It should be 0.45 to 0.65 on the 2003 & up PTs. The secondary resistance should be around 11.5 to 13.5 k-ohms on the 2001 & 2002 PTs. It should be 11.5 to 14.5 k-ohms on the 2003 & up PTs. Note--- always do these checks on a cold coil. A hot coil will show higher misleading figures. Not saying you can't have a bad OEM coil because more of them have gone bad than most people on these PT sites are aware of, but just not likely.

Jerry
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Last edited by wwpptc; 17 Mar 2012 at 06:25 pm.
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Old 14 Apr 2014, 04:15 pm
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Default Re: ROUGH idle

Quote:
Originally Posted by mahgninnuc68 View Post
Well folks....it's the dog gone Ignition Coil. The mechanic came out and checked it out and when he had his hand on the coil and he touched the body of the car he got a HUGE zap. Said it has a short in it somewhere and recommended replacing it. I'm off to the auto parts store tomororw. Thanks again for all of the assistance and love!
Have the mechanic test the resistance on the primary and secondary side. I was having rough idle too. Resistance on primary was high. Replaced coil. Runs much better now, except when ac is on. I've got troubleshoot my fan now.
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