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IAC valve

 
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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 04 May 2012, 04:28 pm
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Caldwell, Texas
Posts: 6
Default IAC valve

Brand new member, I'll add something to the new member page later and some bio info in my profile. Right now I need urgent advice.

2007 2.4L non-turbo Touring edition.

This belongs to a daughter, and they bought it used so I have no factory manual info and I have been reading this forum for the past 3 days. And thank you for the WEALTH of info I have already gotten. This vehicle has a rough idle, and check engine light has illuminated. Runs great once you get off idle, but at idle the air conditioner really affects it. Thanks to this forum, I replaced the radiator fan (one brush was completely gone so fan was inoperative at idle with air on). They had the codes checked ($99) and got a printout that recommended a lot of stuff (plugs, wires, coil, professional FI cleaner, etc) to the tune of $800. So far I have done all that (except at this point I have just run some FI cleaner in the gas) and changed the oil/filter/antifreeze (with HOAT antifreeze) and defective fan for about $350 in parts. I also finally was able to read the codes with the key (took a few -dozen- tries to get this right).

As was promised in the threads, changing the fan definitely cleared up the very rough idle when the air kicked on, now I have to go past a shop to make sure it hasn't dumped contents out of the air system. It still cools, maybe just not as well. And the idle now isn't affected by the air conditioner, and is much smoother, however it is still a little rough, and it's still throwing a code. P0301 - misfire on number 1. Do you think I still need to give the FI cleaner a chance? Only have about 100 miles on the cleaner, and it was a bottle of Techron.

On to the IAC questions. When the ignition is on (car not running) is the IAC valve closed or open (energized or not energized)?

Sometime in it's past life, the plug to the IAC was unplugged without moving the lock and depressing the latch, so the latch is non-existant. Has anyone ever replaced this plug? I can rig up a locking mechanism with a couple of tie wraps, but a nice locking plug would look better.

Thanks in advance
Bill

Last edited by Wingerbill; 06 May 2012 at 04:41 pm.
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Old 04 May 2012, 05:25 pm
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 27,743
Default Re: IAC valve

I can't tell you if the IAC is energized when the ignition is on but I can say thay many members have taken the IAC off and disassembled it and found it was clogged and not letting the internal spring work very well. So, you might tyr that. As far as the tie wraps go, as long as the electronic clip is making good contact, the only bad thing about the tie wraps is that it looks bad. Up to you if you want to buy a new IAC to make it look good.

All the other things you did were good but if you still have the P0301 fault code after doing all that, then a vacuum leak (probably around the upper manifold) might be your problem. Are you disconnecting the battery when you do any cleaning or changing? That will clear any old codes and reset the computer.
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Old 06 May 2012, 04:41 pm
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Caldwell, Texas
Posts: 6
Default Re: IAC valve

The idle is smoothing out a bit, and definitely is much better since replacing the defective fan. I replaced the 4 square gaskets between the upper and lower manifold yesterday. They didn't look bad, but the newer ones protruded farther out from the manifold, so they are probably sealing better. I'm also about 1/3 of the way through the tank of gas with my fuel injector cleaner.

I am still getting the P0301 code, however sometimes it takes a few miles of driving before the cel lights up, and then it will light up when you are idling at a stop light. Since replacing the gaskets, when the cel comes on, if you then get back on the highway the cel will go back out. It will do this without setting a code, but after it has done it two or three times, it will finally stay on and set an error code. Previous to this, the light was on all the time, so I feel like I am at least making progress. I do clear the code each time, so I know it is resetting it.

Regarding the idle control valve. On this 2007, it seems to be like the one in a post about a 2006 (been doing some more reading). This one is only held on with one screw. Further, this valve does not seem to have the 'pintle' that everyone refers to, instead it is just a flat valve sitting against a seat. So there is nothing to 'slowly push in by hand to 1" ' - it is either open or closed. I've been looking for a picture specific to the 2007 valve, but haven't found one yet. The flat valve seems to move freely though, and I have thoroughly cleaned it. I may be forced to try and find a factory service manual for this car if I pull any more hair out over this error code. Other than a slightly rough idle, this car runs great, especially at speed.

It looks like it will be tie wraps on the plug. The broken part is on the PT wiring harness, not on the IAC.

Last edited by Wingerbill; 06 May 2012 at 04:58 pm.
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 06 May 2012, 06:09 pm
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: south of Tampa, Florida
Posts: 3,037
Default Re: IAC valve

Please click this link.

More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS AC419

It also gives two oem part numbers.

Jerry

Last edited by wwpptc; 06 May 2012 at 06:12 pm.
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