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Engine Oil in Spark Plug Cavity

 
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Old 08 Jun 2012, 04:40 pm
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Default Engine Oil in Spark Plug Cavity

Just changed spark plugs on my 2001 PT 2.4 engine. 92,900 miles.
Upon removal of plugs number 2, 3 & 4 the socket came up drenched in engine oil. Cavity #1 dry.
The spark plugs themselves were dry, electrodes normally a little worn.
Engine is not burning oil nor consuming abnormal amounts of oil.
Tried sucking up some more oil with a rag but, it came up dry.

What's leaking engine oil into the spark plug cavity?

thanks
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Old 08 Jun 2012, 05:03 pm
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Default Re: Engine Oil in Spark Plug Cavity

The o-ring seals around the plug cavity need to be replaced. It is part of the set of seals for the valve cover.

Just get the entire FelPro seal kit and get to work....
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Old 08 Jun 2012, 05:33 pm
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Default Re: Engine Oil in Spark Plug Cavity

Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelgarage View Post
The o-ring seals around the plug cavity need to be replaced. It is part of the set of seals for the valve cover.

Just get the entire FelPro seal kit and get to work....
The job doesn't look complicated but is there a tutorial about this?
Thanks for your reply.
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Old 08 Jun 2012, 05:45 pm
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Default Re: Engine Oil in Spark Plug Cavity

Not on the forum but once you get the valve cover off it should be pretty easy to see how the seals go on.

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Old 08 Jun 2012, 05:48 pm
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Default Re: Engine Oil in Spark Plug Cavity

CREWZIN:
It looks fairly easy by the looks of it but, never done it.
Are there any complicated issues accessing this cover? It looks like just taking the intake manifold off and then the valve cover.
Is this all that is involved?
Thanks again for your help.

Last edited by rcalzadilla; 08 Jun 2012 at 05:51 pm.
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Old 08 Jun 2012, 05:59 pm
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Default Re: Engine Oil in Spark Plug Cavity

Never done it but here's a couple older posts that might help:

Changing the valve cover gasket on a 03'.

Valve cover replacement
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Old 08 Jun 2012, 07:42 pm
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Default Re: Engine Oil in Spark Plug Cavity

My power steering reservoir seems to be in the way. I think you need to loosen the bracket that holds it in the way--then push the reservoir back to get the valve cover off.

I haven't doe it yet, but I seem to remember asking the question and another Cruiser told me he had to do this.

Tim
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Old 08 Jun 2012, 11:18 pm
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Default Re: Engine Oil in Spark Plug Cavity

Just loosen it valve cover is easy put some sealant on corners and to hold gasket
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Old 08 Jun 2012, 11:59 pm
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Default Re: Engine Oil in Spark Plug Cavity

Quote:
Originally Posted by mdfrodolives View Post
My power steering reservoir seems to be in the way. I think you need to loosen the bracket that holds it in the way--then push the reservoir back to get the valve cover off.

Yes, the bracket is bolted to the back of the head. I think it is held on by only two bolts.....use a bungie cord to help keep it out of the way.

Keep in mind there are a few important steps to keep the cover leak free...

1. remove the cover bolts in order, according to the manual
2, change ALL the seals, clean all bolts and surface areas
3. apply black RTV in the correct locations, again according to the manual
4. tighten and torque the bolts down in order, again according to the manual

I am very anal about assembly, so i used a 1/4 torque wrench to ensure a perfect seat. After about 4-5k since the head gasket replacement, I have no leaks.
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H&R Cup Kit | TSW Sakata 18x8 35ET | Nankang NS-II 235/40/18 | SPC front alignment cam - rear shim | Master Pro Rotors | Master Pro Ceramic F/R pads | Rebuilt Cylinder Head - Safety Valves and Guides | Felpro Head Gasket and upper rebuild kit | Fail-safe 195 degree thermostat | Mopar Waterpump...lol | 3rd radiator fan motor | Gates timing belt kit | WIX filters (oil, transmission) | Mobile 1 5w30 | Mopar ATF4 | Redline Water Wetter | K&N Drop-In | 4th Drive side Axle | Energy Suspension Torque Mounts | 3rd set of Torque Mounts...
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Old 09 Jun 2012, 05:53 pm
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Default Re: Engine Oil in Spark Plug Cavity

Well just finished replacing the Valve Cover gaskets. About 3 hrs. which includes about 30-40 minutes cleaning surfaces and cover channels.
"Felt-Pro" gasket (5) pieces #V55051BR $37.79 from Advance Auto Parts, a beautiful product, though expensive.
Had to remove:
Upper intake manifold (To start this see the spark plug installation instructions in the Tech Section of this Forum)
In addition to above and in order to remove the entire Upper Intake Manifold and have full access to the Valve Cover:
-Disconnected throttle support (2 nuts), disconnect throttle cables,
-Disconnected four (4) electrical connectors and four (4) hose connections.
-Removed Ignition Coil Pack four(4) bolts attached to top of valve cover
-Disconnected Spark Plug wires from Spark Plugs
-Disconnected Steering Fluid reservoir two (2) bolts and tied it to the side and out of the way.
-Removed nine (9) valve cover bolts and they stay in cover if yo don't pull them out
-Very carefully cleaned the flat, top surfaced with a one edged blade and a small chisel trying not to scratch the metal but remove the build up of oil residue.
-Meticulously cleaned the valve cover's outer perimeter and spark plug well channels of almost all the oil and crud I found there. This with a clean rag and small screw driver covered by the rag, folded 2 to 3 times.
-Cleaned all the threads of the cover bolts.
-RTV gasket sealer at the specified corners in the Service Manual.
-Replaced valve cover, torqued bolts to 105 in. lbs in three steps and in the correct sequence: 40 in.lbs, 80 in. lbs and 105 in.lbs.

Hope I didn't forget anything but, if I did, let me know

Last edited by rcalzadilla; 10 Jun 2012 at 11:37 am. Reason: Spelling
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