PT Cruiser Forum  
Advertisements
       

Go Back   PT Cruiser Forum > General Forums > Tech & Performance Forum

PT Cruiser Forum

Advertisements
Replaced Radiator Fan Assembly - Still no fan movement

 
Like Tree1Likes

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05 Aug 2012, 08:33 pm
Fresh Cruiser
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 3
Question Replaced Radiator Fan Assembly - Still no fan movement

New to the forum. '06 PT Cruiser w/ 61000 miles. Was getting the code P0481. Reading previous threads about P0481 and overheating (which it was doing), I went ahead and replaced the 50AMP fuse and ordered a new Radiator Fan Assembly from rockauto.com (which included the two top mounted relays on the shroud). Followed the nice instructions found on this forum for replacing the fan assembly (quite easy) and put everything back together. Started the car up and ran it for a few minutes. Turned on the AC and within a matter of a few seconds the check engine light came back on. Went to the front of the car and noticed the fan was not running. My question is --- what else can I check or could be the issue??? Thanks!!!
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05 Aug 2012, 09:10 pm
SpannerHound's Avatar
Regular Cruiser
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Scotland, but in Canada on Holiday
Posts: 192
Smile Re: Replaced Radiator Fan Assembly - Still no fan movement

Did you check the temp gauge, was it up to running temp? Did you check that you had cleared the old codes and that there are no new ones? You have checked that there is enough coolant in it?

I would let it idle from cold without the A/C on, after 5-10 mins the fan should come on when it hits operating temp. If it doesn't I would be looking at the codes and checking all wiring and voltages etc to the fan relay circuits.
If the overheating persists, and the fan is running normally, I would be looking at radiator cap, radiator, heater matrix and finally a head issue in that order
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 05 Aug 2012, 09:23 pm
Ray_Dockrey's Avatar
Senior Cruiser
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Mustang, OK
Posts: 1,213
Default Re: Replaced Radiator Fan Assembly - Still no fan movement

I found this. I think you have a wiring issue somewhere along the circuit. This thread may help.

idle drops when fan kicks on and off
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 07 Aug 2012, 12:40 pm
Fresh Cruiser
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 3
Default Re: Replaced Radiator Fan Assembly - Still no fan movement

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray_Dockrey View Post
I found this. I think you have a wiring issue somewhere along the circuit. This thread may help.

idle drops when fan kicks on and off
Thanks for the link. I drove the car around the past 2 days without the AC and with the AC and the low/high speed fan on the new radiator fan did not kick in at all. With the AC, at idle, warm air started coming out and u can feel the car about to stall (as in similar threads). So it sounds like a circuit issue and the old fan might not have been the issue. Is there a way I can take the old fan (which I still have) and "jump it" to see if it actual works? Mechanically inclined but not to electrically inclined. Thanks for any response! (2006 non-turbo)
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 07 Aug 2012, 03:37 pm
SpannerHound's Avatar
Regular Cruiser
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Scotland, but in Canada on Holiday
Posts: 192
Smile Re: Replaced Radiator Fan Assembly - Still no fan movement

First off, don't drive the car around when you know there's a cooling issue, you only risk knackering the head gasket or worse

I'll try and break this down a bit for you...

To test the fan when it's off the car:

The radiator fan itself has 3 wires, Black= Ground, Yellow=Low Speed, Dark Green=High Speed. All you need to do with the fan to test it is supply 12V from a battery between Black(-12V) and one of the other wires(+12V), the fan should run either slow or fast depending on which other wire(Yellow or Green) you connect.

Beware that if the fan is faulty or has shorted turns in the motor it will draw a fair current and will likely spark and heat the supply wiring.


To test the radiator fan relay circuits:

The fan relay circuits on the car need to be tested with a multimeter.
On each of the Relay's themselves you should find a Grey wire. That wire is the Switched(through the relay) 12V power to the fan assembly, and should always be at 12V.

You should also find a Light Green/ Black wire on both Relay's. Those wires are the 12v power to the relay coils themselves, and should become 12v when the ignition switch is on.

If either of those supplies are missing, the fan will not run. If either supply is missing, check fuses 12 and 5, one is 10A(relay coil supply) and the other is 40A(fan supply) respectively.

On the Low Speed relay you should also find a Yellow/ Red wire. This wire is the Switched Ground from the PCM module. When the fan is off this should be at approximately 11-12V, and when the fan is running at Low Speed it should be at 0V or very nearly.

On the High Speed relay you should find a Dark Blue/ Pink wire. This wire is the Switched Ground from the PCM module. Again it should be at approximately 11-12V when the fan is not running and very nearly 0V when the fan is running at High Speed.

If the supplies are there but the PCM is not switching the Ground to the Relay's, you could have a temperature sensor failure, or if they are OK and the wiring to them and the PCM is OK, then I would suspect the PCM itself.

I hope that helps clear things up a bit
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 08 Aug 2012, 02:05 pm
Fresh Cruiser
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 3
Smile Re: Replaced Radiator Fan Assembly - Still no fan movement

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpannerHound View Post
First off, don't drive the car around when you know there's a cooling issue, you only risk knackering the head gasket or worse

I'll try and break this down a bit for you...

To test the fan when it's off the car:

The radiator fan itself has 3 wires, Black= Ground, Yellow=Low Speed, Dark Green=High Speed. All you need to do with the fan to test it is supply 12V from a battery between Black(-12V) and one of the other wires(+12V), the fan should run either slow or fast depending on which other wire(Yellow or Green) you connect.

Beware that if the fan is faulty or has shorted turns in the motor it will draw a fair current and will likely spark and heat the supply wiring.


To test the radiator fan relay circuits:

The fan relay circuits on the car need to be tested with a multimeter.
On each of the Relay's themselves you should find a Grey wire. That wire is the Switched(through the relay) 12V power to the fan assembly, and should always be at 12V.

You should also find a Light Green/ Black wire on both Relay's. Those wires are the 12v power to the relay coils themselves, and should become 12v when the ignition switch is on.

If either of those supplies are missing, the fan will not run. If either supply is missing, check fuses 12 and 5, one is 10A(relay coil supply) and the other is 40A(fan supply) respectively.

On the Low Speed relay you should also find a Yellow/ Red wire. This wire is the Switched Ground from the PCM module. When the fan is off this should be at approximately 11-12V, and when the fan is running at Low Speed it should be at 0V or very nearly.

On the High Speed relay you should find a Dark Blue/ Pink wire. This wire is the Switched Ground from the PCM module. Again it should be at approximately 11-12V when the fan is not running and very nearly 0V when the fan is running at High Speed.

If the supplies are there but the PCM is not switching the Ground to the Relay's, you could have a temperature sensor failure, or if they are OK and the wiring to them and the PCM is OK, then I would suspect the PCM itself.

I hope that helps clear things up a bit
Thanks SpannerHound for the breakdown!!! I appreciate your insight! I understand ur initial comment about driving around - unfortunately the wife and kids have the good vehicle out of town and my driving the cruiser is just short 2-4 miles trips from the house. Still - no excuse for it. Will let u know what I find out.
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 08 Aug 2012, 02:15 pm
Ray_Dockrey's Avatar
Senior Cruiser
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Mustang, OK
Posts: 1,213
Default Re: Replaced Radiator Fan Assembly - Still no fan movement

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpannerHound View Post
First off, don't drive the car around when you know there's a cooling issue, you only risk knackering the head gasket or worse

I'll try and break this down a bit for you...

To test the fan when it's off the car:

The radiator fan itself has 3 wires, Black= Ground, Yellow=Low Speed, Dark Green=High Speed. All you need to do with the fan to test it is supply 12V from a battery between Black(-12V) and one of the other wires(+12V), the fan should run either slow or fast depending on which other wire(Yellow or Green) you connect.

Beware that if the fan is faulty or has shorted turns in the motor it will draw a fair current and will likely spark and heat the supply wiring.


To test the radiator fan relay circuits:

The fan relay circuits on the car need to be tested with a multimeter.
On each of the Relay's themselves you should find a Grey wire. That wire is the Switched(through the relay) 12V power to the fan assembly, and should always be at 12V.

You should also find a Light Green/ Black wire on both Relay's. Those wires are the 12v power to the relay coils themselves, and should become 12v when the ignition switch is on.

If either of those supplies are missing, the fan will not run. If either supply is missing, check fuses 12 and 5, one is 10A(relay coil supply) and the other is 40A(fan supply) respectively.

On the Low Speed relay you should also find a Yellow/ Red wire. This wire is the Switched Ground from the PCM module. When the fan is off this should be at approximately 11-12V, and when the fan is running at Low Speed it should be at 0V or very nearly.

On the High Speed relay you should find a Dark Blue/ Pink wire. This wire is the Switched Ground from the PCM module. Again it should be at approximately 11-12V when the fan is not running and very nearly 0V when the fan is running at High Speed.

If the supplies are there but the PCM is not switching the Ground to the Relay's, you could have a temperature sensor failure, or if they are OK and the wiring to them and the PCM is OK, then I would suspect the PCM itself.

I hope that helps clear things up a bit
What year car is this for? If it is for the 2001-2005 then it won't apply to his. He has a 2006 which has the canbus system in it.
767skyking likes this.
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 08 Aug 2012, 05:13 pm
SpannerHound's Avatar
Regular Cruiser
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Scotland, but in Canada on Holiday
Posts: 192
Smile Re: Replaced Radiator Fan Assembly - Still no fan movement

You are correct sir! My earlier post was for the 2001-2005 PT's, my bad however the CAN bus doesn't go anywhere near the Radiator Fan, certainly not that I can see in any of the schematics I have to hand

The wiring on the later models is a little different though, the relays are now located in a wee black box right on the fan assembly itself(passenger's side top) on the later models. From what I understand from the schematic, there are 4 wires that go to the plug on the radiator fan cooling module:

Black=Ground, Red/ Brown=+12V, Dark Blue/ Light Green=Low Speed Fan Control, Dark Blue/ Orange=High Speed Fan Control.

There is now only 1 Fuse, number 15, and it is rated 50A. This supplies both Relay Coils and the Fan through the Relays with +12V. This is the supply that you should find on the Red/ Brown wire at the Cooling Fan Module and it should be there all the time.

I don't have one to hand to look at and confirm this, but I'm guessing that both the Low and High Speed Fan Control wires will sit at about +11-12V when the Fan is off, and very nearly 0V when the Fan is running.

So to draw a parallel from what I stated earlier:

The Red/ Brown wire now replaces the Light Green/ Black & Grey Wires.
The Dark Blue/ Light Green wire now replaces the Yellow/ Red wire.
The Dark Blue/ Orange wire now replaces the Dark Blue/ Pink wire.
The Fuses 12 (10A) and 5(40A) are now combined into one Fuse 15 (50A).

Sorry for any confusion I caused, but as you can see, it's basically the same test procedure. I am assuming here that the Fan motor itself will be common throughout the range of models, therefore will have the same 3 wires
Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 25 Apr 2013, 12:59 pm
Fresh Cruiser
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 17
Default Re: Replaced Radiator Fan Assembly - Still no fan movement

Hey my 2008 car is doing the same thing now did you ever find out what it is????
Reply With Quote
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 25 Apr 2013, 11:06 pm
Senior Cruiser
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,241
Default Re: Replaced Radiator Fan Assembly - Still no fan movement

Excellent two posts by Spannerhound. They deserve to be a two part sticky.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Axle movement L2fish Wheels, Tires, Suspension 9 03 May 2012 06:54 am
Radiator replaced, now leaking power steering fluid JamesPisanich General PT Cruiser Discussions 3 30 Sep 2011 10:23 am
Movement under hood during acceleration ? Cajunsim Tech & Performance Forum 1 19 Mar 2010 10:01 am
Newbie needs help:Tie rod movement crooner44 Wheels, Tires, Suspension 0 21 Sep 2009 06:40 pm


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:14 pm.




Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.2
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
LinkBacks Enabled by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2 © 2011, Crawlability, Inc.
vB.Sponsors