PT Cruiser Forum  
Advertisements
       

Go Back   PT Cruiser Forum > General Forums > Tech & Performance Forum

PT Cruiser Forum

Advertisements
help please!

 
Like Tree5Likes

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11 Aug 2012, 06:31 pm
Fresh Cruiser
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Atlantic City NJ
Posts: 8
Default help please!

i have a 2002 cruiser na the ac didnt work, i tried to charge it and it started to purge the freon out of the high pressor release valve on the compressor, was told it was bad compressor and dryer could be clogged, spent all day replacing them both and its still doing it, i am clueless to as what it could be, any ideas? thank you in advanced!
dogmatize likes this.
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11 Aug 2012, 08:03 pm
JenneK's Avatar
Cool Cruiser
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Island of Maui
Posts: 275
Default Re: help please!

Orifice tube replaced? Did you flush the condenser, hoses and evaporator prior to installing the compressor and accumulator?
__________________
Ken posting about his Jenny's car.

01 w/JBA headers, Borla catback, Airaid intake, lowered, purple with shiny wheels.
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 11 Aug 2012, 09:43 pm
Obsessed Cruiser
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 5,324
Default Re: help please!

ITEM TO NOTE: I've discovered a new issue that can cause all sorts of HVAC problems, I'm in the midst of testing it now and will post here when I finish. 5/18

Guys, you can't replace major components of your AC system and then just charge it!!! You're going to push condensation throughout your system, and if you leave the system open for more than 24 hours then you have killed your Accumulator! This is the FIRST RULE in AC repair - there is a condensation trap on all systems regardless of make and/or model, in the case of the PT it's the Accumulator. The desiccant that is in the bottom of the accumulator will be ruined if the system is left uncharged and/or with no vacuum on it!! The problem is, on our cars you can't just replace the desiccant, you have to replace the entire Accumulator!

Here, if you don't believe me, just a tiny section out of the OEM service manuals:



Also, did you check the filter mesh on the Variable Orifice Tube and also make sure the O-rings are lubed properly? Here's the VOV info:


Now, let me tell you RULE NUMBER 2 of ANY AC REPAIR regardless of make and/or model - DO NOT CHARGE YOUR SYSTEM IF YOU HAVE REPLACED ANY MAJOR COMPONENTS AND/OR OPENED UP YOUR SYSTEM AND ALLOWED IT TO DISCHARGE UNLESS YOU PULL A VACUUM DOWN 12 HOURS MINIMUM!!!


If you do, you are wasting both time and money! Now I'm not saying I'm an exspurt (ex = has been, spurt = drip under pressure), but I have lots and lots of experience working on AC systems.

No personal offense intended nor am I trying to insult anyone here. If you are going to work on your AC system by yourself, then you'd better make dayum sure you are set up properly and know what you are doing!


Steps and items needed to work the AC system:
  • Without a set of good AC manifold gauges set up for R134a, stop here - you'll destroy your AC system. Buy good ones and make sure your AC gauges are setup for R134a and that the gauges themselves are vibration free.
  • Test you AC manifold gauges on at least two cars before beginning work to insure the gauges read properly. Each vehicle make and model has their own system pressure readings, so make sure you try to get an accurate reading. I've posted the AC readings for our PT's in my technical library section.
  • MAKE DARNED CERTAIN THAT BEFORE CONNECTING AND/OR DISCONNECTING YOUR HOSES TO YOUR MANIFOLD GAUGES THAT YOU SHUT DOWN THE VALVES ON THEM!!!!!!!!
  • Make sure the hoses that connect to your manifold are at minimum 600psi rated!
  • Make sure you have R134a connectors for your hoses. You can use adapters, they work good but if so then make sure you use teflon plumber's tape on the threads where you connect them to your hoses.
  • If you're smart, make sure the R134a connectors have control valves built in, this way you can shut off right at the connection and not let any refrigerant leak out into the atmosphere (note, most DON'T have that, but they are easy to find).
  • If you think you are experiencing a leak in the system, I highly suggest you buy a leak detection kit, not the sniffer, just the leak chemical and a portable black light to view the leak.
  • If you find out you need to replace a major component in your system, or you have to open the system up and discharge it, then you must pull a vacuum on the system prior to re-charging it! THIS IS A MUST!
  • When it comes to vacuum systems, make sure you get one with R134a connectors! Also, try to get a 3cfm vacuum pump - you can get less than that, they are cheaper, you can get higher cfm, they are more expensive, but 3cfm is pretty good.
  • If you pull a vacuum on your system, watch for the first few minutes where the system exhaust comes out of the vacuum pump. If you system has ANY condensation in it, you will see what looks like steam or a mist coming out of the vacuum pump. That is normal! For a 3cf of higher pump, you must pull a vacuum for minimum 12 hours to insure your system is clean and free of any condensation. For less than 3cfm, minimum 24 hours!!!
  • When using a leak detection system, meaning the UV detectable chemicals, then you have to add the chemical to the center hose on the manifold gauge set. Make darned sure you don't dump a ton in it. I literally use normally less than an ounce!
  • When you are ready to charge your system, before hooking up your refrigerant to the center hose of the manifold gauges, make sure you add a few drops of AC oil to that hose. You want to insure that the refrigerant pushes the oil through the system. This will keep your seals, hoses and fittings lasting a long time!

Here's what I suggest you look for when buying a manifold gauge set:
  • Heavy duty anodized aluminum body and all solid brass fittings, or solid brass body with site glass
  • Metal gauge housing and liquid packed and vibration free gauges (personally I prefer the liquid packed gauges, they tend to have zero vibration when in use)
  • Heavy duty valve construction consists of solid brass wobble plate and Teflon seal
  • Make sure you find in the description something like this: The gauge does not flutter, is vibration free, and have a polycarbonate lens for years of accurate readings and use.
  • Also, make sure the gauge set has a site glass built in.
  • Make sure you use good teflon plumber's tape and any threaded connection to insure no leaks!

Now mind you, these are all just my own suggestions, take them or leave them. If you don't agree with them, that is fine. If you don't follow my suggestions, then whatever you do don't waste your time sending me a PM or email with questions because I'll completely ignore you.

WHATEVER YOU DO, IF YOU ARE WORKING ON YOUR AC SYSTEM, PLEASE, PLEEZ WEAR SAFETY GLASSES! EXPOSURE TO R134A IN YOUR EYES, AS IN GETTING SPRAYED, CAN CAUSE BLINDNESS!

End or rant...


Here are sample photos of some of the items I suggest to everyone, if you're going to seriously work on your AC system, then get something similar to this!!!

AC Manifold gauges with R134a adapters, shut off valves on the manifold, hoses and gauges!!! (pardon the term but this set is sh*t hot):


Excellent leak detection kit:


Those of you who know my real first name can laugh at what I consider one of the best vacuum pumps for AC work:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robinair
Robinair 15300
VacuMaster Vacuum Pump
  • HVAC High Performance Vacuum Pump - Engineered specifically for air conditioning and refrigeration service
  • 115 VAC 2-stage pump, excellent for home use
  • Safety operation - Precision one-piece, molded handle makes it easy to carry the pump to and from ob sites, and the handle stays cool to the touch during operation
  • Lower maintenance - VacaMaster pumps use less oil, 7.4 oz. (220 ml); that will reflect in your maintenance costs during the life of the pump
  • Compact Design & Lightweight

The Robinair VacuMaster vacuum pump is performance tested to meet Robinair’s high standards with power and capacity for a wide range of service applications. A high CFM rating for fast, thorough evacuation and a two-stage rotary vane design.

Two-stage Design – Cleans the system more thoroughly than a single-stage pump; the second stage starts pumping at a lower pressure so you can pull a deeper, ultimate vacuum.

Oil Drain Valve – Positioned at the bottom of the oil reservoir and angled for faster, more complete draining.

Oil Fill Port – Makes adding oil simple since the port is accessible from the front or either side. The sight glass on the front of the pump shows you when enough oil has been added.

Heavy-Duty Motor – High torque design for easy startup and efficient operation.

Die-Cast Aluminum Housing – Cast aluminum housings make the pumps lightweight but durable.
This vacuum pump, to me, is just simply bonerific! Go for the 15300 - here's what it looks like:


Now, the only problem with the Robinair is it's price, the 15300 is darned expensive! So, to pay for mine, I charge all my neighbors for tuning up their AC systems on their cars. $50 checkup, plus the cost of any refrigerant needed. Has paid for the unit and all my neighbors laugh stating their AC works so well they can hang meat in their cars!
JenneK and cj06 like this.

Last edited by Chromenut; 18 May 2013 at 01:58 pm.
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 11 Aug 2012, 10:46 pm
Fresh Cruiser
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Atlantic City NJ
Posts: 8
Default Re: help please!

no tube not replaced, but i vacuumed the system before i opened it up and after i put it back together if that helps you with this problem at
Chromenut likes this.
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 11 Aug 2012, 10:54 pm
Obsessed Cruiser
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 5,324
Default Re: help please!

Shoot, I forgot to put info on the Schrader valves. Your HP valve may be bad, if it's blowing out from pressure. Did you verify that the HP side had the right amount of pressure on it? I've had problems with Schrader's getting gunked up and stuck, I actually just found two on my back seat last week from when I'd bought a box of them a year or so ago. Somehow a couple of them got loose in the back seat. No one ever sits there so no idea how they popped up all of a sudden.

Anyway, I put on some really good wrap safety glasses, get me a hand held magnifying glass and look at the valves when I'm working on the car to make sure they are clean. I hit them with either Simple Green or Grease Off, then rinse them, then use my compressor to blow the water out, then check them out before connecting up to them. I do this every time as I've ruined an expensive set of gauges by blowing a friggin metal chip into it one time.

Other than that, I'd have to be there to look at it to give you any other advice. When you filled your system, did you have the engine running and the AC turned on full????
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 11 Aug 2012, 10:56 pm
Obsessed Cruiser
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 5,324
Default Re: help please!

Also, Maxxed, thanks for posting that info - most people don't go through those steps and release their refrigerant to the atmosphere, adding to all the issues causing ozone layer problems. I'm personally PO'd by people that do that, want to smack them senseless, but they really are already senseless if they're not following the law.

Anyway, good job, if I knew you were close by I'd find time and come help!
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 11 Aug 2012, 11:04 pm
Fresh Cruiser
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Atlantic City NJ
Posts: 8
Default Re: help please!

lol yes i try to do everything the right way, have a fully equipped shop. Actually pulled the frame/engine/tranny out from underneath a ford v10 CNG 12 passanger bus today, its crazy this ac is kicking me like this, the pressure seemed alright, i did not test both side as i was very frustrated after the 12 hour day today (which is my day off, im an electrician during the week) which type of readings should i get on the high low side on this thing?
Chromenut likes this.
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 11 Aug 2012, 11:06 pm
Obsessed Cruiser
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 5,324
Default Re: help please!

So where are you from??? Update your profile to include you general location. Also, post us photos!!!

Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 11 Aug 2012, 11:15 pm
Fresh Cruiser
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Atlantic City NJ
Posts: 8
Default Re: help please!

im from atlantic city nj and any pictures i have on my computer right now are of my 1991 toyota mr2, which im sure no one here cares to see, lol
Reply With Quote
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 11 Aug 2012, 11:23 pm
Obsessed Cruiser
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 5,324
Default Re: help please!

AC huh... I lived out in Woodbury, Long Island for a year, then Hoboken, then bought a condo in Bedminster. Moved to Chicago for 4 years then they asked me back so bought a 5k sq ft house up in the mountains of New Jersey on 6+ acres. Was my favorite home so far, miss it terribly, but don't miss the snow! Was up in Andover, between Sparta and Newton.

Love New Jersey, miss the excellent food and the fun people. Was one of my favorite work assignments up there.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:46 pm.




Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.2
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
LinkBacks Enabled by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2 © 2011, Crawlability, Inc.
vB.Sponsors