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Old 05 Sep 2012, 11:14 am
mikelikestobike's Avatar
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Default Clutch

Hello. My PT has about 94K miles. I've owned it for the past 2 years and about 30K miles. I just had to get the Timing belt repaired (luckily I had a service plan that covered it).

My clutch seems to be going out. Hard to describe, but there is very little that you feel when engaging it. Everything still works, but there is very little feel.

I've done some things - suspension fixes, fuel pump over the years, I can follow directions and have the Haynes manual.

Can I do this myself?

I don't need anything special, and need to keep the cost down. How much are parts going to cost? I've looked online some, but am not really sure what I'm looking at. Will I need a flywheel? Would it be dumb to replace a clutch and not replace the flywheel? There is a trans motor mount (I think) - do that too?

What should labor costs be?

Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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'03 Manual non-turbo in Silver w/ Factory flames.
K & N Drop in, Modded airbox, MSD Superconductor wires, Strut bar, blue dots in taillights. Sold 12/13
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Old 05 Sep 2012, 11:43 am
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Default Re: Clutch

probably a dumb question but have you checked the hydraulic fluid in the clutch? Low fluid can cause a false wear.
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Old 05 Sep 2012, 11:44 am
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Default Re: Clutch

Wow lots of questions and the answers are going to be all over the place so Ill give it to you as I would do it.

I would get the kit Cluch throw out bearing presureplate and Id also also do the slave cylender since you are in there
as far as the fly wheel goes I didnt look it up but turning it will be cheaper and a new one will be new that will be your call me im going new i dont want to come back here any time soon

as far as special tools jacks jack stands normal tools maybe a tranny jack I put mine on the rack remember you have to pull the axles ( I think) to get the tranny out so you can work on it

I guess if you totaly removed the tranny you could change the oil in it clean it all up and maybe paint it but thats a little over kill

cost is not to bad go to rock auto but you will have to know what style tranny you have

money is usally tight but im thinking parts are under $200 depending on exactally how far you go the time or labor to do it is usally the killer i thnk it is rated at 4.5 hours to R&R so what ever the labor rate is plus parts might be in the $600-$700 range

its a non turbo so stock should be more than good enough your not going to be racing it or coming off the line hard

If you have a freind who is good with wrenches id say DIY it if your not inot grease and labor find some one who you trust
It is easier with 2 people
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Old 05 Sep 2012, 12:19 pm
mikelikestobike's Avatar
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Default Re: Clutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by pluminator View Post
probably a dumb question but have you checked the hydraulic fluid in the clutch? Low fluid can cause a false wear.
Not a dumb question. I'll double check it, but last time I looked all was fine.

Thanks!
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'03 Manual non-turbo in Silver w/ Factory flames.
K & N Drop in, Modded airbox, MSD Superconductor wires, Strut bar, blue dots in taillights. Sold 12/13
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Old 05 Sep 2012, 12:30 pm
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Default Re: Clutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikelikestobike View Post
Not a dumb question. I'll double check it, but last time I looked all was fine.

Thanks!
I've seen many that seem blown that were just low or out of fluid *dot 3*. Worth a shot. Clutches are a pain in the rear for sure. Hopefully your one of the lucky ones with a leaky slave or line that takes 35 min to swap :-)
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Old 05 Sep 2012, 12:43 pm
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Default Re: Clutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikelikestobike View Post
My clutch seems to be going out. Hard to describe, but there is very little that you feel when engaging it. Everything still works, but there is very little feel.
little feel where? in the pedal or it doesn't throw you back in the seat when you shift?

it's easy to change on these cars and there's no flywheel to cut. it's all one unit. everything is riveted together. http://cdn3.autopartsnetwork.com/ima...1789791SAC.JPG

even when you change the slave cylinder it comes bled and sealed with a quick disconnect connector - no line to bleed!
(i'd still rather have a cable operated clutch any day, but this is pretty convenient)

Quote:
Originally Posted by cruserdad1976 View Post
its a non turbo so stock should be more than good enough your not going to be racing it or coming off the line hard
yea no kidding.. even with abuse it's pretty amazing. i'm impressed with the abuse the stock clutch takes. i'm shifting with the gas pedal pegged to the floor pretty much daily.
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Old 05 Sep 2012, 01:04 pm
mikelikestobike's Avatar
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Default Re: Clutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by rob342 View Post
little feel where? in the pedal or it doesn't throw you back in the seat when you shift?

it's easy to change on these cars and there's no flywheel to cut. it's all one unit. everything is riveted together. http://cdn3.autopartsnetwork.com/ima...1789791SAC.JPG

even when you change the slave cylinder it comes bled and sealed with a quick disconnect connector - no line to bleed!
(i'd still rather have a cable operated clutch any day, but this is pretty convenient)



yea no kidding.. even with abuse it's pretty amazing. i'm impressed with the abuse the stock clutch takes. i'm shifting with the gas pedal pegged to the floor pretty much daily.
Just don't really feel it disengaging much. Pedal just kinda goes to the floor with little resistance.

I'll check fluid tonight.
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'03 Manual non-turbo in Silver w/ Factory flames.
K & N Drop in, Modded airbox, MSD Superconductor wires, Strut bar, blue dots in taillights. Sold 12/13
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Old 05 Sep 2012, 01:37 pm
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Default Re: Clutch

There's an adjustment under the dash- LOTS have found this helps fix 'mush pedal'

loosen 8mm/5/16 bolt, pull up on pedal push in on rod, tighten
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