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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06 Sep 2012, 08:35 pm
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Default Valve Spring Compressor

Hello,

I have the head off, but am having trouble removing the valve springs. The tool I have fits some older cars but not this one. Can someone please link to or tell me manufacturer and model number of a valve spring compressor tool that would work on a 2005 classic pt cruiser?

Much appreciated!
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06 Sep 2012, 08:44 pm
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Default Re: Valve Spring Compressor

Quote:
Originally Posted by ptblue2005 View Post
Hello,

I have the head off, but am having trouble removing the valve springs. The tool I have fits some older cars but not this one. Can someone please link to or tell me manufacturer and model number of a valve spring compressor tool that would work on a 2005 classic pt cruiser?

Much appreciated!
Know the problem! like to have a cheap one myself. Saw some on ebay.:
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Old 06 Sep 2012, 09:07 pm
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Default Re: Valve Spring Compressor

Quote:
Originally Posted by ptblue2005 View Post
Hello,

I have the head off, but am having trouble removing the valve springs. The tool I have fits some older cars but not this one. Can someone please link to or tell me manufacturer and model number of a valve spring compressor tool that would work on a 2005 classic pt cruiser?

Much appreciated!
It requires an adapter. You might be able to order it from Chrysler, it was considered a special tool. I assume Snap-On, Mac, or Matco would also have an adapter.

The part # for the Chrysler tool is MD-998772-A with adapter 6779.

Hope this helps.

Ron
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Old 07 Sep 2012, 12:04 am
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Default Re: Valve Spring Compressor

I bought the Miller tool, it works well.

Before that used the classic c-clamp tool, it worked OK, only needed some pipe and made cutouts:

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Old 07 Sep 2012, 07:55 am
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Default Re: Valve Spring Compressor

That will work for me. Only plan on doing this once!
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__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ___________Performance, Body and Service, OEM

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This is a great read from one of our own! Badglas
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 07 Sep 2012, 10:09 am
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Default Re: Valve Spring Compressor

Quote:
Originally Posted by UptownSport View Post
I bought the Miller tool, it works well.

Before that used the classic c-clamp tool, it worked OK, only needed some pipe and made cutouts:

that's awesome. i've use a drill press for honda and buick heads. should work great with your pipe idea if i ever need it (:
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 07 Sep 2012, 06:35 pm
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Default Re: Valve Spring Compressor

Thanks to all - looks like I'll be going the c-clamp/pipe cutout route as well. I looked up the suggested parts and they totaled $400!
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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 09 Apr 2013, 04:13 pm
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Default Re: Useable Valve Spring Compressor

duplicate post removed

Last edited by gtgt_bangbang; 09 Apr 2013 at 04:40 pm.
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 09 Apr 2013, 04:40 pm
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Default Re: Useable Valve Spring Compressor

didn't want to screw up my fresh head with my old C Clamp style compressor.

I already had a slotted deep-well socket bolted into the compressor's crows feet, a little different from the notched pipe in photos above (I made 2 cuts straight through socket then removed two sides, left 2 legs to contact the retainer) which let me reach the retainers in deep-set heads similar to the PT, but the other contact side (the valve face end) was so large (designed for V8 2V heads) compared to these cutsie small PT valves, I decided its time for a new compressor.

Got an OTC 4572 Large Valve Spring Compressor, did just fine ($47 , OTC 4572 Large Valve Spring Compressor : Amazon.com : Automotive). Between Prime Trial and a gift card for new credit, I got in 2 days for $15

Now almost wish I had got a Universal Valve Spring Compressor Tool ( $35 Toyota/Mazda/Honda Motorcycle/Car Universal Valve Spring Compressor Tool : Amazon.com : Automotive)
as I am not a real big fan of the lever action type (prefer the slow and controllable screw type to avoid scratching anything.) but i have bent those simpler cast iron frames on high pressure spring assemblies.


Now I have an urge to assemble the head correctly (inserting the rockers AFTER the cam shaft is already bolted on, and the adjusters are in the galley, instead of just cranking down on the caps with everything assembled) but I dont have a over-the-cam-hooking lever , like the CHrysler tool, to depress the valves to provide clearance to slip in the rockers. I asked the Chrysler stealership about doing it, but they wanted $160 to do the job !!!! all of 15 minutes work, they called it 1.5 hours.) Any good ideas welcome. If anyone has the Chrysler tool (8215-A, plus 8436 adaptor) I will pay rent+deposit+shipping to borrow it !


Words of warning; found out that Chrysler does NOT sell cam caps (understandably, as a fitted / honed part) NOR do they sell the little steel dowels that align the end cam caps ( thank you, my usually great machinist for botching two of those up.) Two of those cap-alignment dowels were bent up just enough to NOT allow the caps down cleanly, and I failed to re-round them sufficiently, and I really didnt like the idea of of hammering the cap down on to the dowels ( potential for damage, looseness, misalignment, leaks), so I heated the head awhile, them worked out the dowels with pliers griping outside and the best fitting socket inside (nothing fit too well although one drill size came real close ... oversize ), cleaned up the burrs left by the pliers and flipped over the dowel, drove the old top/knarly side into the head to put the fresh smooth end up into the cam cap. Do a little bit of chamfering to the holes to make everything fit a little easier. Fire some propane on the corner of the head awhile for remove & replace, to loosen up the steel dowels in the Aluminum head, to avoid really mauling the dowels. Works wonders


Next up - to make a set of seal drivers; it turns out there are several useful sized PVC fittings in hardware plumbing department. Description to come , will probably offer my set after done building.

I thought I recall reading that one of the seals needed to be installed UNDER flush (recessed to the related surface) but I dot see that instruction now.
Books says;
The rear seal needs to be flush, NO deeper. There is a black PVC bushing (DWV fitting) the correct size to be a good installer.
The cam seals can be driven with 2" black PVC pipe.
The front seal is supposed to be installed with a "puller" using the shaft bolt, again flush.

ED NOTE -
oh yeah, it was the belt pulley that needed to be measured before removal, and re-installed to that depth ( pulley alignment), NOT a seal

Last edited by gtgt_bangbang; 09 Apr 2013 at 04:57 pm.
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 09 Apr 2013, 05:09 pm
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Default Re: Valve Spring Compressor

gtgt_bangbang Nice write up. pictures are always welcome!

The "inserting the rockers AFTER the cam shaft....." comment I think you might be doing overkill. Increase your torquing steps make sure you use lots of assembly lube and you should be fine. I would make sure all the fasteners run cleanly in all there threads before the assembly. I have had to do a few camshaft changes recently and saw no real advantage of any other precaution?

I did feel for you on the cap incident. You can get dowel materiel at many good engine machine shops for future reference. I have had to replace a few in my time and use to keep several sizes and lengths on hand at my engine machine shop for just such issues as yours.

Recently I acquired a head to do some work on and the cam caps had been mixed up at least twice in the heads life. Fortunately there is a little smudging you can do for mixed cap application. As long as you test for clearance it is possible to re-locate a new position on the head and then properly mark or label them for the next time.
I have even gone as far as a little machining to increase there strength by machining the tops and polishing them.

Machining in progress




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