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Suspension Parts Question and tips?

 
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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08 Nov 2012, 09:47 am
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Location: Illinois
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Default Suspension Parts Question and tips?

I need to get some parts for 2 of my PT's,

#1, Tie Rod Ends,

I see Moog is pretty easy to locate locally,
Part # ES3173RL
Is that a decent part or is there a preferred brand?

#2, Control Arm Bushings,
Moog Part # K620024
These control arms have bushings & ball joints already installed, Anyone ever use these?

Are the loaded control arms hard to install? I have done the wheel bearings recently and it was not overly difficult.

Question is basically and special tools needed? I have a good floor jack & stands, lots of wrenches & sockets, no impact tools though.

If I tackle this project, should I put in new sway bar links & bushings?
Moog Part # K7348

I really need to keep the costs low on this project and any input would be appreciated.
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Old 08 Nov 2012, 12:24 pm
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 50
Default Re: Suspension Parts Question and tips?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarasmiles View Post
I need to get some parts for 2 of my PT's,

#1, Tie Rod Ends,

I see Moog is pretty easy to locate locally,
Part # ES3173RL
Is that a decent part or is there a preferred brand?

#2, Control Arm Bushings,
Moog Part # K620024
These control arms have bushings & ball joints already installed, Anyone ever use these?

Are the loaded control arms hard to install? I have done the wheel bearings recently and it was not overly difficult.

Question is basically and special tools needed? I have a good floor jack & stands, lots of wrenches & sockets, no impact tools though.

If I tackle this project, should I put in new sway bar links & bushings?
Moog Part # K7348

I really need to keep the costs low on this project and any input would be appreciated.
If you need to keep costs down, buy and replace only the parts you need. The loaded control arms are nice and concenient, but you can load the old ones with the new parts with a little time.

Moog is a great brand, in my opinion.

Sway bar links and bushings are not needed unless a part is missing or broken/worn out. Energy Suspensions or someone of that nature should offer a urethane alternative to the OEM and the extra money will reward you with longer lasting parts and improved ride quality.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08 Nov 2012, 12:51 pm
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Location: Illinois
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Default Re: Suspension Parts Question and tips?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Horsehaulin View Post
If you need to keep costs down, buy and replace only the parts you need. The loaded control arms are nice and concenient, but you can load the old ones with the new parts with a little time.

Moog is a great brand, in my opinion.

Sway bar links and bushings are not needed unless a part is missing or broken/worn out. Energy Suspensions or someone of that nature should offer a urethane alternative to the OEM and the extra money will reward you with longer lasting parts and improved ride quality.

Well, that is the thing, with 90,000 on the clock, the bushings for sure are shot, and I figure the ball joint is not far behind. One of the ball joint boots is coming apart/torn.
I already have the new tie rod ends(also bad)

The loaded Moog is not really expensive in a what is needed Vs $$$ scenario. With my limited tools
I figure not having to buy and press in the ball joints or bushings would make it pretty cost effective since I think we can do the swap. Keywords = (think we can).
I figure since the Moog link set is only $4.00 more it would better than messing with old worn and rusted parts while doing the rest of the control arm stuff..


I have energy suspension bushings in my 01, they are pretty good but interestingly they are not holding up as well as I had hoped. It cost me a bundle to get those installed and after only 2 years they are already borderline. BTW, I think we only have about 8000 miles on those bushings, it appears they do not like not being used often.
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Old 08 Nov 2012, 01:31 pm
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Default Re: Suspension Parts Question and tips?

Just change everything with Moog...
A complete control arm is always cheaper that swapping the bushings alone...plus the new control arm will have new ball joints...and is rust free...

I usually buy Moog parts from here, but also check Rockauto and Amazon...

http://www.autopartstomorrow.com

If you check this site, make sure you put Chrysler Truck, to find the PTCruiser parts...
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Old 08 Nov 2012, 01:37 pm
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Default Re: Suspension Parts Question and tips?

www.autopartstomorrow.com prices:

Moog control arms (RK620010 and RK620009) $54.66 each and Moog tie rod end (ES3173RL) $29.07

With free shipping if over $50
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Old 08 Nov 2012, 01:43 pm
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Default Re: Suspension Parts Question and tips?

MOOG all the way...
I would also replace the inner tie rods while your doing the work, chances are they are also bad or going bad. Since you have to get it aligned after doing the work might as well just do it once and be done for a long time.

Before starting the work, spray all the bolts with some sort of rust penetrate to help easy bolt removal. I like PB Blaster.
Amazon.com: Blaster 16-PB Penetrating Catalyst - 11 oz.: Automotive
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Old 08 Nov 2012, 08:42 pm
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Default Re: Suspension Parts Question and tips?

Well, parts are ordered.

All Moog

+1 on the penetrating oil. I typically use knocker loose
CRC Industries - Knock'er Loose

now the wait,
I figure in a couple days I will start hitting the rusty stuff with the lube and let is soak a couple days before digging in entirely.
The removal instructions don't look bad, I just hope that one captive nut does not give me any grief.
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Old 08 Nov 2012, 11:31 pm
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Default Re: Suspension Parts Question and tips?

I just did this exact same work last weekend. I replaced both lower control arms (loaded with new bushings and ball joints), both outer tie rod ends, both sway bar inner cushions, and both sway bar outer end links with bushings. Not a hard job. However, the back control arm bolt is torqued to 185 ft. lbs. and mine was rusted solid and broke off on the passenger side. It's a big bolt, 16mm to be exact (5/8"). My impact gun wouldn't touch it, and it took my two foot long breaker bar, plus a three foot long pipe on that before I finally got it to break off. Then I spent the next few hours getting the rest of that bolt out.

If anyone has to deal with that, here is what you need to know: if the bolt is rusted solid to the captured nut like mine was and the bolt breaks, you pretty much have to take out the captured nut from the body along with what is left of your bolt. This involves pulling back the carpet on the passenger side, then taking a 2.5"-3" hole saw and cutting a hole in the metal floor board of the car right above where the bolt is. For whatever reason Chrysler has this spot "marked" by an indent in the metal floor board in about a 3" circle. Simply cut it out, and the captured nut is right there.

As I mentioned, the bolt is a 16mm grade 10.9 metric bolt. I replaced it with a SAE 5/8" grade 8 bolt. I looked up the specs comparing the two, and they are very similar, close enough that I did not hesitate to replace it with that new bolt. I also bought a grade 8 nut and washer, and stuck it in the recess where the captured nut was, and I got the bolt to tighten up and got it torqued properly. But I also put anti-seize on those bolts so that will never happen again. Mine was not only rusted solid to the captured nut, but also rusted solid to the sway bar bushing inner metal sleeve.

Hopefully nobody else has to go through that.
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Old 11 Nov 2012, 09:25 am
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Default Re: Suspension Parts Question and tips?

Quote:
Not a hard job. However, the back control arm bolt is torqued to 185 ft. lbs. and mine was rusted solid and broke off on the passenger side. It's a big bolt, 16mm to be exact (5/8"). My impact gun wouldn't touch it, and it took my two foot long breaker bar, plus a three foot long pipe on that before I finally got it to break off. Then I spent the next few hours getting the rest of that bolt out.
Is that bolt issue a common problem?
I know when I had a mechanic install those energysuspension.com | Welcome bushings in my 01 he mentioned that bolt as being very difficult to remove. He said it was ridiculously tight and had to heat it with a torch to get it to break loose.

I would be up the creek without a paddle if I broke it getting it off.
Is there any way to get some penetrating oil up to that thing other than drilling a hole?
Was your impact wrench rated for high enough duty?

Can you tell I am nervous about that? I have when bolts break and I have had many that haunted me in the past.
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Old 11 Nov 2012, 11:42 am
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Default Re: Suspension Parts Question and tips?

That bolt has been know to cause issues for people... The only way to get to the nut and back side of that bolt is to cut a hole in the floor like mentioned above.
When I did my suspension rebuild a couple years ago I was also worried about removing that one, I however had no problems removing both rear/vertical bolts. I used a 24" breaker bar and sprayed everything with rust penetrate as much as I could. Luckily there is very little rust under my car, if the bolt heads are visibly rusty you might be in for a more difficult time...
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