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2001 PT Cruiser alternator removal

 
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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 16 Dec 2012, 04:02 pm
Fresh Cruiser
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 12
Default 2001 PT Cruiser alternator removal

Can the alternator be removed from the bottom side without taking anything else off??,......will it fit out??
My alternator went belly up,......just want to know what to expect in the removal process.
THANX
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 16 Dec 2012, 04:39 pm
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Rochester, Michigan
Posts: 669
Default Re: 2001 PT Cruiser alternator removal

The short answer is...no. My suggestion is that you consult a repair manual.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 16 Dec 2012, 07:54 pm
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Casco, Michigan
Posts: 126
Default Re: 2001 PT Cruiser alternator removal

If it's like the turbo, you have to remove the passenger side cv axle.
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2003 GT 5 speed, 2nd owner, 90,000 miles, Stage1, Altezza taillights, TYC backup lights, air box mod
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 16 Dec 2012, 08:04 pm
Obsessed Cruiser
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 27,743
Default Re: 2001 PT Cruiser alternator removal

Some older threads:

Replacing Alternator

removing alternator from the top

How to Access the Alternator in a PT Cruiser | eHow.com

how to change an alternator on a 2003 pt cruiser - JustAnswer
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 16 Dec 2012, 08:23 pm
UptownSport's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: 55403
Posts: 3,912
Default Re: 2001 PT Cruiser alternator removal

Axle really isn't that difficult (relatively) to remove -
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 22 Jan 2014, 11:05 pm
Regular Cruiser
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: .
Posts: 153
Default PT Cruiser alternator removal-No axle Removal

Pt Cruiser Alternator Removal/Installation 1 Hour Install

Items Needed:
1. 2 floor jacks or 1 large floor jack and 1 jack stand. Aluminum/steel jacks with the 4" heads and larger wheel base on them are the safest.
2. 12” 2x4
3. Gearwrench flex head ratcheting wrenchs. Not necessary but very handy and speed up the job considerably. Needed sizes: 15mm and 13mm
4. 10mm, 15mm, and 18mm sockets. Deep preferred.
5. Long or short needle nose pliers
6. 6” or longer extension, 3/8 and or 1/2
7. #55 Torx socket for front motor mount. May need 1/2->3/8” adapter.
8. 3/8” and 1/2" ratchets


1. Remove positive battery cable.
2. Jack up passenger side of car and remove wheel.
3. Place jack stand under car for safety. If using only one floor jack, lower car onto jack stand.
4. Remove splash shield using a 10mm socket and long extension. There are 3 bolts along the frame rail and one under the bumper cover on the radiator support. There is also a plastic faster on the frame under the axle. Some have a Phillips screw type in them, others just have a push type fastener in them. If it has a push type fastener, slide the nose of the needle nose pliers under the head keeping them snug on the stem of the fastener. Wiggle the pliers back and forth and while forcing the pliers further under the fastener until you get it out. 90% of the time this works. If it doesn’t, get a new fastener from the parts store. I’ve found the only ones that are big enough are the ones with the screws in them. They are 3/8 or 5/16, check hole to verify.
5. Once the splash shield is out, remove the pencil strut. I.E. the metal tube that is the brace between the sub-frame and the main frame rail. 15mm socket.
6. Remove the bolt, 18mm, from the lower torque bar under the AC compressor. Leave the one on the sub-frame alone.
7. Remove the bolt from the upper torque bar at the strut tower, 18mm and long extension.
8. Leaning over the engine from the front, loosen the alternator tensioner using the 13mm ratcheting wrench. Most of the time once you break it loose, you can run it out about an inch with your fingers. If you can’t, this is where the racheting wrench really comes in handy. Do this step before loosening the locking nut, 15mm.
9. Using the flex head ratcheting wrench, 15mm, loosen and remove the locking nut for the alternator tensioner. This is where the flex head wrench saves a bunch of time, especially if the nut is stubborn.
10. Slide under the car with a 10mm socket and ratchet and remove the battery cable from the alternator. At this point you can also remove the plug on the back of the alternator also. This can sometimes be done easier from the top. NOTE: There is a red locking clip on this connector and it has to be released before it will allow the connector tab to be depressed and removed.
11. From the wheel opening, remove the lower bolt holding the alternator on, 15mm and 6” extension works great here.
12. Slide the alternator off of the lower bracket and upper stud and move against firewall.
13. I have found that removing the lower bracket helps but may not be necessary. There are 3 15mm bolts that hold it on. One is removed from the fender well, the other two can be removed from the top. Maybe different on turbo models.
14. Jack up the engine using a 2x4 between the floor jack and oil pan. Just put medium pressure on it, enough to support the engine a little.
15. Remove the plastic plug in the fender well covering up the front motor mount bolt.
16. Using the T55 torx socket remove the bolt. If the bolt is kind of tough to get out you either don’t have the engine jacked up enough or have it too high. Adjust as necessary.
17. Once the bolt is out, lower the floor jack about 2” or more. You will need to pull the motor forward as far as it will go from the top.
18. You can now remove the alternator. You may have to adjust the jack up and down a little to find the right spot but it will come out if you hold your tongue right  Pay attention to how it comes out as the new one will have to go in the same way.
19. For installation reverse process. I did this in an hour and hadn’t done this for several years. This was on a non-turbo 2004. Turbo models might vary slightly but should be able to be done the same way.

This saves having to get the big tools out for the strut bolts which most smaller sockets sets don’t have. It also keeps you from having to buy an 1 ¼” axle socket and a breaker bar. You also don’ make a mess having to pull the axle and losing transmission fluid. Another expense.
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 22 Jan 2014, 11:08 pm
Regular Cruiser
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: .
Posts: 153
Default PT Cruiser alternator removal-No axle Removal

Pt Cruiser Alternator Removal/Installation 1 Hour Install

Items Needed:
1. 2 floor jacks or 1 large floor jack and 1 jack stand. Aluminum/steel jacks with the 4" heads and larger wheel base on them are the safest.
2. 12” 2x4
3. Gearwrench flex head ratcheting wrenchs. Not necessary but very handy and speed up the job considerably. Needed sizes: 15mm and 13mm
4. 10mm, 15mm, and 18mm sockets. Deep preferred.
5. Long or short needle nose pliers
6. 6” or longer extension, 3/8 and or 1/2
7. #55 Torx socket for front motor mount. May need 1/2->3/8” adapter.
8. 3/8” and 1/2" ratchets


1. Remove positive battery cable.
2. Jack up passenger side of car and remove wheel.
3. Place jack stand under car for safety. If using only one floor jack, lower car onto jack stand.
4. Remove splash shield using a 10mm socket and long extension. There are 3 bolts along the frame rail and one under the bumper cover on the radiator support. There is also a plastic faster on the frame under the axle. Some have a Phillips screw type in them, others just have a push type fastener in them. If it has a push type fastener, slide the nose of the needle nose pliers under the head keeping them snug on the stem of the fastener. Wiggle the pliers back and forth and while forcing the pliers further under the fastener until you get it out. 90% of the time this works. If it doesn’t, get a new fastener from the parts store. I’ve found the only ones that are big enough are the ones with the screws in them. They are 3/8 or 5/16, check hole to verify.
5. Once the splash shield is out, remove the pencil strut. I.E. the metal tube that is the brace between the sub-frame and the main frame rail. 15mm socket.
6. Remove the bolt, 18mm, from the lower torque bar under the AC compressor. Leave the one on the sub-frame alone.
7. Remove the bolt from the upper torque bar at the strut tower, 18mm and long extension. Leave it attached to the engine.
8. Leaning over the engine from the front, loosen the alternator tensioner using the 13mm ratcheting wrench. Most of the time once you break it loose, you can run it out about an inch with your fingers. If you can’t, this is where the racheting wrench really comes in handy. Do this step before loosening the locking nut, 15mm.
9. Using the flex head ratcheting wrench, 15mm, loosen and remove the locking nut for the alternator tensioner. This is where the flex head wrench saves a bunch of time, especially if the nut is stubborn.
10. Slide under the car with a 10mm socket and ratchet and remove the battery cable from the alternator. At this point you can also remove the plug on the back of the alternator also. This can sometimes be done easier from the top. NOTE: There is a red locking clip on this connector and it has to be released before it will allow the connector tab to be depressed and removed.
11. From the wheel opening, remove the lower bolt holding the alternator on, 15mm and 6” extension works great here.
12. Slide the alternator off of the lower bracket and upper stud and move against firewall.
13. I have found that removing the lower bracket helps but may not be necessary. There are 3 15mm bolts that hold it on. One is removed from the fender well, the other two can be removed from the top. Maybe different on turbo models.
14. Jack up the engine using a 2x4 between the floor jack and oil pan. Just put medium pressure on it, enough to support the engine a little.
15. Remove the plastic plug in the fender well covering up the front motor mount bolt.
16. Using the T55 torx socket remove the bolt. If the bolt is kind of tough to get out you either don’t have the engine jacked up enough or have it too high. Adjust as necessary.
17. Once the bolt is out, lower the floor jack about 2” or more. You will need to pull the motor forward as far as it will go from the top.
18. You can now remove the alternator. You may have to adjust the jack up and down a little to find the right spot but it will come out if you hold your tongue right  Pay attention to how it comes out as the new one will have to go in the same way.
19. For installation reverse process. I did this in an hour and hadn’t done this for several years. This was on a non-turbo 2004. Turbo models might vary slightly but should be able to be done the same way.

This saves having to get the big tools out for the strut bolts which most smaller sockets sets don’t have. It also keeps you from having to buy an 1 ¼” axle socket and a breaker bar. You also don’ make a mess having to pull the axle and losing transmission fluid. Another expense.
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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 22 Jan 2014, 11:15 pm
Handy_Cruiser's Avatar
Obsessed Cruiser
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 10,201
Default Re: 2001 PT Cruiser alternator removal

Great directions.

Here's some photos to go along with it.

The "Handy" Alternator Change Out - Motor Mount Technique
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Old 23 Jan 2014, 05:28 am
Senior Cruiser
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,253
Default Re: 2001 PT Cruiser alternator removal

340x and Handy; thank you both for taking the time to show others an easier way to change the alternator. ---- Just to add, when adjusting the torque struts [4.7 inch dimension] use a bottle jack under the 'boss' located on the front of the engine by the starter. Use only light pressure [DON'T use the jack handle!
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Old 23 Jan 2014, 07:09 am
garkeller's Avatar
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Tampa Bay
Posts: 311
Default Re: 2001 PT Cruiser alternator removal

340x and Handy...you guys ROCK!
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