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HELP!Problem with temperature gauge after new water pump

 
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Old 05 Jan 2013, 10:23 pm
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Default HELP!Problem with temperature gauge after new water pump

Hi guys I know that I am in good website and You can help me with my problem...anyways...

Two weeks ago I change water pump on my 2008 Pt Cruiser and now I am having troubles...

-My temperature gauge is in C (cold) position.When my Pt is in Park then temperature is little warmer and its going to maybe second line but when I'm driving it's kinda going up and down...

-I'm loosing this fight

-I already replace thermostat (twice) put new coolant sensor and new coolant...push the air from the air bleeder

-I'm getting hot coolant in radiator air is hot and then I'm going for a ride and air blowing cold and temperature gauge is going to C again...I have a code P0128.

This could be a bad water pump or I still have a lot of air in my system??? Please any advice???Thank you so much...
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Old 06 Jan 2013, 12:39 pm
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Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1,354
Default Re: HELP!Problem with temperature gauge after new water pump

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Originally Posted by Leszeks82 View Post
Hi guys I know that I am in good website and You can help me with my problem...anyways...

Two weeks ago I change water pump on my 2008 Pt Cruiser and now I am having troubles...

-My temperature gauge is in C (cold) position.When my Pt is in Park then temperature is little warmer and its going to maybe second line but when I'm driving it's kinda going up and down...

-I'm loosing this fight

-I already replace thermostat (twice) put new coolant sensor and new coolant...push the air from the air bleeder

-I'm getting hot coolant in radiator air is hot and then I'm going for a ride and air blowing cold and temperature gauge is going to C again...I have a code P0128.

This could be a bad water pump or I still have a lot of air in my system??? Please any advice???Thank you so much...
Thermostat issue, Check the seal around the thermo and make sure it is making a GOOD seal.

Are you using "stant" brand thermostats? and are you buying failsafe thermos?

The reason i ask is if you are buying failsafes, and you still have air in the system, air will cause an overheat, which will cause the thermostat to stick open for safety which would cause the exact issue your talking about :-)

TO make sure there is no air you need to not only bleed the system, but burp the system.

To do this, remove the radiator cap, start the car and let it warm up, you will see your thermo open up to induce new coolant, and when this happens you will see one of two things, the coolant will either swirl *as if you were flushing a toilet, which is normal* or you will see it bubble. *this is air escaping*. Once air escapes, add more coolant then turn off the car and let it cool down. Then repeat the process until all you see is the swirl effect. THEN bleed it through the valve until it comes out as pure coolant :-)

But odds are there is a lot of air in the system, causing a bubble under the thermo , causing the thermostat to reach above its max temp and thus popping and sticking your thermostat open, which will cause it to have a constant circulation of coolant, which doesnt allow it to heat :-)
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