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bleed clutch?

 
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Old 02 Jun 2013, 03:55 pm
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Default bleed clutch?

is there any way to bleed the clutch system on this car?

everything seems to just say that if the slave is bad you can replace it, but if the master is bad, you must buy the master and slave together as a pre-bled kit?

the only thing that i see being bad, is the horrible way they designed this. i'm pissed because the directions to remove the transmission said to disconnect the master/slave quick connect. i could have easily skipped that step, had i known it would do this.

this is my issue: since i just installed a new clutch, i'd like to put the master adjustment rod back to the stock position instead of the fully extended that it was in previously. i put the rod all the way in and tryed pumping the clutch at least 100x like it says, with no change in pedal feel.

so i put the rod back in the fully extended position and the clutch pedal still feels pretty low. pumped it 100x more, still feels the same.
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Last edited by rob342; 02 Jun 2013 at 04:35 pm.
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Old 04 Jun 2013, 04:11 am
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Default Re: bleed clutch?

Rob; near the slave/clutch there is a push-in connector with 2 clips that hold the 'hose' in place. Then there is a nipple with a cap. Remove the rubber cap and push on a clear piece of tubing [2' long?] over it and collect it in a container. Brake fluid reservoir must be kept full. Pull the first clip out [the one nearest the nipple] and then pull the 'hose' out [away] until it hits the second clip. This allows the system to self bleed. When bubbles stop, push 'hose' back in and push first clip back in. Pump pedal 50 times or less if the bubbles stop in the reservoir.

There is a way to bleed the air from the clutch master cyl if this doesn't work. Good luck.
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Old 04 Jun 2013, 08:46 am
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Default Re: bleed clutch?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pt06 View Post
Rob; near the slave/clutch there is a push-in connector with 2 clips that hold the 'hose' in place. Then there is a nipple with a cap. Remove the rubber cap and push on a clear piece of tubing [2' long?] over it and collect it in a container. Brake fluid reservoir must be kept full. Pull the first clip out [the one nearest the nipple] and then pull the 'hose' out [away] until it hits the second clip. This allows the system to self bleed. When bubbles stop, push 'hose' back in and push first clip back in. Pump pedal 50 times or less if the bubbles stop in the reservoir.

There is a way to bleed the air from the clutch master cyl if this doesn't work. Good luck.
You should write the two up with pics for a sticky.
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Old 04 Jun 2013, 11:36 am
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Default Re: bleed clutch?

mine looks like this. it has the quick disconnect in the line, and it had the little vacuum diaphram device on the slave end of the line. i do not see a rubber cap or nipple anywhere. there is a dimple where a bleeder could go on the slave itself, but it does not actually have a hole there. i'm good at figuring things out, but i don't quite get it. can you explain exactly where you mean?

thank you



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Old 06 Jun 2013, 01:02 am
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Default Re: bleed clutch?

Rob; the info I stated is for a 2006 PT. Which is different than your diagram. I looked up a 2004 parts manual diagram and it is also different than yours!! ---But I think the basic idea of gravity bleeding should be the same. If your slave cyl has a bleeder screw then start there. If not, can you disconnect the hose/line from the slave cyl? Then let it bleed. Pre-fill the slave cyl?

NEVER let the brake reservoir go dry! Your goal is to remove all air from the system. Maybe someone with a manual for your year PT could help out more.

Keep at it, you'll get there!
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