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Coolant flush questions.

 
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Old 13 Jul 2013, 08:45 pm
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Default Coolant flush questions.

Hello all,

10 day lurker, first time poster.

July 3rd I found and purchased a 2001 Cruiser with just 60750 miles. Runs and rides and looks really nice. I don't have any pictures to share with you at the moment.

After several days of riding around, I started noticing a gurgling sound when I turned off the engine. The first few times it was just a couple of quick gurgles and it stopped. One day, after driving for maybe an hour over several different stops, it continued for a good minute or so. I opened the hood and noticed that the coolant was boiling.

Researching this forum it seemed that there was probably just some air in the system and it needed to be bled. But then I read the HOAT thread and learned alot about coolant and how mixing certain kinds can be bad. Since I just purchased the vehicle and no idea of it's past, I decided that the best course of action would be to flush the system and use a HOAT/distilled water 50/50 mix.

I chose to follow the procedure as explained in the Haynes manual, mostly. The spark plug thread simplified the whole upper manifold removal bit. All of these bolts have some silver/white stuff on the threads. I'm guessing it's either thread lock or an anti-seize. My first question is, what exactly is it and do I need to apply more when putting this all back together?

The flush bit of it requires removing the tstat, reinstall the housing cover, then run water through the upper inlet until the water coming out of the upper hose runs clear. Is there suppose to be a gasket of some sorts between the tsat housing and cover? It seemed like there might be something there, but it could have been some goop the previous owner added. I did get a tstat housing gasket, but it has a square opening so I think it might actually go between the housing and the engine block or whatever it connects to.

Since I had to remove the stat, I figured I might as well replace it. The new one I got has a black oring with a square protrusion on one side, the original has a white one and I don't see a protrusion. Should I get the white one to replace the black one? The tstat is supposedly an oem replacment.

I'm all set to run the flush in the morning, put it all back together, and refill/bleed. If someone could answer my couple of questions soon that would be awesome!

I'm not even sure if the car was overheating. The gauge never went above the half way point when running. It never gurgled while driving or at idle. Only immediatly after turning the car off.

For good measure, I also got a new radiator cap.

Thanks in advance!

Dave
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Old 13 Jul 2013, 08:56 pm
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Default Re: Coolant flush questions.

To be clear, I'm at the point of having reinstalled the tstat housing minus the tstat. Next step is to run water through the system.
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Old 14 Jul 2013, 01:37 am
randyincctx's Avatar
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Lightbulb Re: Coolant flush questions.

You might want to consider changing the coolant temperature sensor while your doing all of this,to save the pain of having to do it later.(just a suggestion.)Replacing the coolant temp sensor
Quote:
Originally Posted by konadave View Post
All of these bolts have some silver/white stuff on the threads. I'm guessing it's either thread lock or an anti-seize. My first question is, what exactly is it and do I need to apply more when putting this all back together?
More than likely it's anti-seize,and in addition to putting it on the spark plug threads it shouldn't hurt to use it on the intake manifold bolts....It'll make it easier for the next time it needs to be removed......Since you said it is silver,it's probably 'Silver Grade Anti-Seize'Anti-Seize Compounds : Loctite Silver Grade Anti-Seize Lubricants [Loctite Silver Anti-Seize] - $9.41 EMI Supply, Inc
Quote:
Originally Posted by konadave View Post
Is there suppose to be a gasket of some sorts between the tsat housing and cover? It seemed like there might be something there, but it could have been some goop the previous owner added.
Sounds like someone may have used RTV or Form-A-Gasket on the housing(not necessary).
Quote:
Originally Posted by konadave View Post
I did get a tstat housing gasket, but it has a square opening so I think it might actually go between the housing and the engine block or whatever it connects to.
From what I understand,the only gasket needed is the one that goes on the actual thermostat....Like this one for a 2001 PT Cruiser.http://www.carparts.com/details/Chry...FWlo7Aod3ycADg...I would suggest using the gasket that came with the replacement thermostat.....Also;Make sure the thermostat is facing the right way up and it should fit into a recess thats built into the lower housing......The torque specs for the upper part of the housing are 20 ft-lbs........Hope I was able to help answer your questions.....This is a good thread:How to change the thermostat?

...This Youtube video may also help you out,only he didn't remove the intake manifold(I know I would!):
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Last edited by randyincctx; 14 Jul 2013 at 01:50 am.
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Old 14 Jul 2013, 07:49 pm
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Default Re: Coolant flush questions.

Based on my recent experience from a similar situation I would strongly recommend a reverse flow flush of just the heater core. When the heater core plugs up the circulation through the engine is terrible.
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Old 14 Jul 2013, 09:11 pm
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Default Re: Coolant flush questions.

Thanks for your answers Randy.

Completed the flush/fill today. First, the flush procedure as described in the Haynes manual did not go as expected. It has you remove the tstat from the housing and then reinstall the housing, run a garden hose through the upper inlet and wait for the water coming out of the upper radiator hose to run clear. With no tstat (and it's gasket) in place, coolant/water gushes from the tstat housing/cover connection. I had a bucket under that area but it was not adequate to handle that mess.

No water came out of the upper radiator hose. I found a section of large shop vac hosing that fit over the radiator hose, ran that up and over the radiator to a bucket. The water pressure may not have been enough to make it over the front of the car.

I let the water run clear from the housing for a while to wash off the coolant from all the parts beneath that area.

Ruined the radiator petcock doing the initial drain, that's been replaced. Since I had to remove the tstat anyway, that's been replaced. Per Randy's suggestion, I went ahead and replaced the ECT while it was a little easier to get at. And replaced the radiator cap.

The bleed valve is a hair bigger than 9mm, and a 10mm is too big. I don't own a 23/64 wrench, if such a thing exists. I have a small adjustable wrench but that wouldn't fit in such a small space. Couldn't do the bleed valve thing. I got 4-5 gts of G-05/distilled mix in, then left the pressure cap off and turned on the car. Lots of air bubbled out and eventually it would start rising and about to overflow the housing. At that point I would turn off the car and let it rest a little. Then repeat. After a handful of attempts, it got up to normal operating temp and I put on the pressure cap. Let it run for awhile, did not overheat. Did not gurgle when I turned off the engine. It leaked a little. After later inspection, it was not from the tstat housing or the ECT.

After taking a break to put some food in my belly, I went back out and wiped off the coolant on the stuff it leaked on. I then took it for a 20 minute test ride. Some around the neighborhood stuff and some 45mph main road stuff. Got back home and turned off the engine, no gurgling. Looked under the car and saw that it had leaked again. Opening the hood, I heard what I would call a percolating/hissing sound from the radiator cap. It appears this is where the leak is occurring.

Again, the temperature gauge never went above the halfway point.

Is it possible that I got a bad new radiator cap? Or do you think there is some other cause for this?

By the way, the stuff that drained from the system was rust colored. The mix of the G-05/distilled is barely piss colored. In both cases, I couldn't/can't tell what the level is in the reservoir. The only time I could tell was the time I saw it boiling, that was when it was rust colored and it looked clear in the reservoir then. Any tips on figuring out what the level is?

I still don't know if the car is overheating or not. The temp gauge doesn't go past the halfway point. I'm obviously going to get this resolved, but is this causing damage if I drive it this way?

I appreciate any insight you folks have to offer.

Dave
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Old 15 Jul 2013, 03:56 am
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Default Re: Coolant flush questions.

Hey konadave. Try a 3/8 wrench on the bleeder, you might get lucky. It's possible you got a bad radiator cap, but that's unusual. Make sure it's on all the way.

As to the overflow take it off, put some hot water, dawn dishwashing soap and some pea gravel in it. Shake vigorously until clean. Rinse it clean and make sure all the gravel is out. Depending on how bad it is, you might have to clean it several times. I posted a thread on this last year, but I couldn't find it.

Ron
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