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The "Handy" Alternator Change Out - Motor Mount Technique

 
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Old 12 Jan 2014, 04:42 pm
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Cool The "Handy" Alternator Change Out - Motor Mount Technique

My alternator had been making a periodic chirping noise for some time now when under a load. So I found a very clean salvage alternator off of an extreme new-looking 2004 Touring PT. But the problem was how to install it.

After reading over many threads on this forum about how to get the alternator out of the car, I found that the problem is that there is not enough room to get the alternator out from behind the engine once it is loose. Three primary techniques for accomplishing this task are described in the forum. The first is the most common and that is to remove the passenger side CV shaft and oil filter block. And second is to cut an ear off of the cast iron exhaust manifold that holds part of the heat shield. And the third method is to remove all right side motor mounts and jack up the engine. I decided that the motor mount technique would be quickest and easiest for me.

This method was best described by forum member Back2Class in January of 2012. He only posted twice in this forum. And both posts were about this same thing. What I describe in this photo essay is his method. And I use many of his words, descriptions and steps. I hope other PT owners find this useful.

NOTE: It was the first warm day after a long bout of unusually cold icy weather. Plus, the back of my engine was still oily from where the valve cover had been leaking before repair over a month ago. My PT, the ground, my tools and eventually myself as well were all very dirty by the end of this project. So excuse the nastiness. And yes, I did have to remove my highly-coveted twin strut bars to do this.




First, disconnect the battery then go under your PT and remove the wires from alternator. There's a plug and a large wire held on with a 10mm nut.

Remove the two top motor mount bolts that attach to engine block pass side and push mount to the side. Or just remove the large bolt too and remove the whole thing.




Remove the top bolt holding the chassis to engine bracket behind the front right wheel.




Loosen the bottom nut holding the chassis to engine bracket just enough to let the bracket rotate and hang down free.




Remove the front bolt on the lower motor mount. At this time you will see that the motor rocks back and forth. That's what you want.




Now, remove the pivot bolt at alternator base where it attaches to the mounting bracket.




Then from above remove the tension bolt and stud. You may need to bend the ac drier's mounting bracket a little to get the adjustment bolt free.






Once alternator is free, move it out of the way. Then remove the lower alternator mounting bracket from the block (three 15mm bolts on my PT).




Now use a jack to support engine under oil pan. Use VERY LIGHT PRESSURE so you don't damage the pan. I used the passenger side rear corner on the pan to jack from. And I put a hardwood laminate board between the oil pan and the jack block.




Now remove the center motor mount bolt at wheel well. There is a 2 inch plastic plug and a grounding wire there. The bolt is a Torx 55. Lift engine enough so there is no weight on that bolt and remove said bolt.




Now engine is free on the passenger side. If you jack up the engine far enough, you can work the alternator out between the chassis and engine by the front of the wheel well/A-arm area.




Now just reassemble in reverse with the new alternator. I found that after I got the new alternator in behind the engine, I could let the engine down several inches below where it normally sits. This makes it much easier to reattach the alternator bracket and alternator before raising the engine back up.

This would have all been quite easy if I could have washed the underside of the PT before I began. But in the end, I've got no more alternator chirp and I no longer have to worry about the alternator locking up while I'm going down the road. It was a good but nasty day. Now for some quality time at the car wash.
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Old 12 Jan 2014, 05:03 pm
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Thumbs up Re: The "Handy" Alternator Change Out - Motor Mount Technique

You've been a busy little bee today....Good job on the write-up & photos.
You didn't mention doing the torque strut adjustment,between the 4.72" in between the engine mount bracket,and the shock tower bracket...My Hanes manual has a little conflict between whether it's supposed to be 4.70" or 4.72",or is that part really that important
I'm just curious,because I have no doubt,that if/when my torque struts need replacing,I'm gonna do them myself.
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Last edited by randyincctx; 12 Jan 2014 at 05:05 pm.
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Old 12 Jan 2014, 05:06 pm
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Default Re: The "Handy" Alternator Change Out - Motor Mount Technique

Quote:
Originally Posted by randyincctx View Post
You've been a busy little bee today....Good job on the write-up & photos.
You didn't mention doing the torque strut adjustment,between the 4.72" in between the engine mount bracket,and the shock tower bracket...My Hanes manual has a little conflict between whether it's supposed to be 4.70" or 4.72",or did you not have to mess with the top mount at all
I'm just curious,because I have no doubt,that if/when my torque struts need replacing,I'm gonna do them myself.
Thanks, Randy.

I read up on that motor mount adjustment. And honestly, my motor mounts are so worn out that it would have made no difference. I put every thing back together as it originally was. Maybe this spring, there will be a "Handy" motor mount thread.
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Old 12 Jan 2014, 05:12 pm
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Originally Posted by Handy_Cruiser View Post
Maybe this spring, there will be a "Handy" motor mount thread.
Good,because I won't be doing mine before then for sure.....Maybe do mine this Summer,if they need it at all.
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Old 13 Jan 2014, 10:12 am
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Default Re: The "Handy" Alternator Change Out - Motor Mount Technique

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Originally Posted by randyincctx View Post
Good,because I won't be doing mine before then for sure.....Maybe do mine this Summer,if they need it at all.
In that case, it may be smarter for me to wait for your directions first.
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Old 13 Jan 2014, 10:48 am
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Default Re: The "Handy" Alternator Change Out - Motor Mount Technique

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Originally Posted by Handy_Cruiser View Post
And yes, I did have to remove my highly-coveted twin strut bars to do this.
NOOOOOOOoooooooo..............
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Old 06 Jul 2014, 08:56 pm
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Default Re: The "Handy" Alternator Change Out - Motor Mount Technique

I want to thank you for this thread!

I had the PT apart to change the power steering pump and while I was in there, I wanted to change the alternator (both 12 years old with 254K miles on them).

I am not used to working on modern cars with transverse engines, so this is entirely new territory for me.

The information on this thread made it much easier to change the alternator.

Thank you again!
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Old 09 Sep 2014, 07:37 pm
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Thumbs up Re: The "Handy" Alternator Change Out - Motor Mount Technique

Handy_Cruiser:

You, sir, are the man.
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Old 06 Jun 2015, 06:29 pm
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Default Re: The "Handy" Alternator Change Out - Motor Mount Technique

Hi guys,
I know this is an old tread, but I just wanted to confirm this method works .
Like any kind of work on PT, it's PIA.
Removing belt tension adjustment bolt is tricky, A/C dryer is in your way.
Best way is to lower engine enough, do not bother with bending dryer bracket.
Also when mounting new alternator, attach pivot bolt first, then adjustment bolt.
Whole job is pretty much straight forward, but there is a lot of play with different wrenches to get proper one for every bolt.
I did cut one end of offset box end wrench to make a tool for side 15mm bolts. I did remove and put back these three from the ground side.
There is very limited room to access the bolts from the top.

Thank you Handy_Cruiser and back2class !
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Old 06 Jun 2015, 06:33 pm
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Default Re: The "Handy" Alternator Change Out - Motor Mount Technique

Quote:
Originally Posted by epis View Post
Hi guys,
I know this is an old tread, but I just wanted to confirm this method works .
Like any kind of work on PT, it's PIA.
Removing belt tension adjustment bolt is tricky, A/C dryer is in your way.
Best way is to lower engine enough, do not bother with bending dryer bracket.
Also when mounting new alternator, attach pivot bolt first, then adjustment bolt.
Whole job is pretty much straight forward, but there is a lot of play with different wrenches to get proper one for every bolt.
I did cut one end of offset box end wrench to make a tool for side 15mm bolts. I did remove and put back these three from the ground side.
There is very limited room to access the bolts from the top.

Thank you Handy_Cruiser and back2class !
Thanks. To me, this is the easiest way to do this.
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