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We just got our nitrous stuff in for our project 03 cruiser. Here is what we got.
Zex dry kit Purge valve Remote bottle opener MSD rpm window switch autometer nitrous pressure autometer air/fuel gauge So here is teh question. Whats a safe shot and what should the window switch be set at for safe operation? This is for a female driver (not that it maters). Oh and the breaking has been taken care of thanks to todd a tce perfromance w/ help from a willwood 4 piston bbk. Jason [8)] |
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Nice, a juiced Cruiser!
For a 4cyl, I would go 55shot to start, see how the car likes it. You could probably get away with a 65, but any higher and you might want to call Zex because you generally have to start messing with timing if you shot is too high. The Zex kit only comes with 55,65, and 75 pills if I am not mistaken, but I think I have some others lying around somewhere.... Looks like you got some of the goodies also! The window switch and purge are nice features to have, but one of the most important that you dont have on there is the bottle warmer. Nitrous really needs to be between 9000 and 11000 to work effectively (more on the 11 side). When you get your bottle filled, it will probably be around 6000psi. It still works, but not to its full potential. Unfortunatly, the A/F gauge is pretty worthless. Looks, cool, but really doesnt tell you anything. Just remember that if anything isnt working or sounding the way it should, stop spraying immediately!! One thing about the Zex kits is that they are heavily dependant on the vacuum pressure, so make sure that is on tight and in the correct place. FYI, I saw this post on the other forum and cut/pasted my same answer from there to here, so if you get deja vu, it was intentional.[8] I used to have a Zex dry kit on my Accord, but switched over to a NX wet kit...another FYI, so you dont think I am making stuff up!
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<font color=\"purple\">214whp/246wtq</font id=\"purple\"> ![]() |
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Again my DSL modem locked up last night when I posted...
Here I go again: I have installed a few Zex and NOS systems and they are very good as a stand alone. I personaly would have gone with a wet setup because it will take the fuel adding issue out of the PCM and factory injectors. Don't forget to buy the "Blow-Down" tube. this is a safety item. I used an RPM Window switch in two cars before throwing it down a mountain.[} ![]() The reason is that you have to be very picky with the RPM selector. When it closes the window and stops the Nitrous, the PCM will take a few secconds to notice this, the car will backfire because it is extremly rich, then goes to a lean condition( the PCM correcting), when you shift and the switch opens the flow of Nitrous, then it can be very lean for a seccond. Catastrofic! It will work but you need to open the window to a setting over the MAX RPM, making it a little useless. I used the window swich successfully in a 1974 Dart with a 360 engine and an NOS cheater system using a 175HP setting. the reason for the window switch was to delay the N2O at the line. The car had horrible traction problems at the 60 foot area. Once we fixed the traction problem with subframe connectors and taller tires, the window switch is now a passenger in the car (no more windows). it is now at the 11.8 sec world on the bottle. next level 225 N2O shot[} ![]() Ian
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