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Rough Idle and FP/ASD Fuse 13

 
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Old 07 Jun 2014, 09:02 pm
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Angry Rough Idle and FP/ASD Fuse 13

New Forum user to PT Cruisers.
2004 PT Cruiser, 2.4L Non Turbo:
I have an issue with a code I haven't found on here. My repair manual and the codes on here are P0302 which is, as I understand a different failing code.
OBD ll code: P2302: Ignition Coil: Secondary "A" Circuit 2 and a P2300: Multiple misfire. I am getting two of the same codes. Or it appears that way. After checking and clearing and replacement of several components, the P2300 code has gone away.

The issue
A week ago last Friday, driving down the interstate, the cel came on. I checked the code, it was the o2 sensor, like a dummy, I didn't write the code down. Then Saturday the cel came on again but this time with a rough idle and the OBD code: P2302 Ignition Coil Secondary A Circuit.

At the same time on Saturday, after several failed attempts to resolve the issue, another issue arose, The Ultimate FP/ASD Fuse 13 Blown 20 amp fuse.

After a week of tirelessly checking all that I could or know how to do, these are the results.
Per references to the P2302 code, and high milieage 162k, the possible failures could be the following:
Ignition Coil
Coil Boot (Plug Wires)
Plugs
Injectors

What has been done:
Replaced the Coil Pack, coil boots, plugs and injectors. Checked all the fuse inside the car and in the PCM. Did not check the other relays. I probably should.

Completed ohms testing of the coil pack:

Secondary side: 12.6 k ohms
Checked the plug to the coil: ohms out at 0.09. (stuck a needle in the insulation about 4 away from the connector and checked for resistance on all three wires. All with the same ohms reading)

Checked for broken wires at the plug: Ohms test was 0.09 ohms
The old plug wires showed signs of arcing so I replaced them. Checked ohms on the plug wires: 3.6 k ohms

The plugs show signs of wear and carbon traces.
Fuel injectors: Checked Ohms: 1 & 4 13.6 ohms, 2 & 3 13.4 ohms. Prier to removal I listened to the injectors: 1 & 4 I could hear rapid clicking and 2 & 3 were slow. I swapped 2 with 4, cleared the codes, restarted the engine, rechecked for codes, (at the time only had one P2302 Code) after starting the engine to see if the code followed what appeared to be a bad injector, I now have 2 codes of the same.
I replaced the injectors, and performed ohms test on the new injectors: 13.6 ohms on all four. After replacement, I checked for audible noise at the injectors and all four are clicking at a rapid and equal pace.

So, as I see it, I completed a tune up with no resolution to the car's error codes. I understand the computer has to see 2 consecutive drive cycles to clear the codes. I manually tried to clear the codes via the OBD ll and still receive the codes and rough idle.

Now, the second issue is, the FP/ASD 13 20 Amp fuse keeps blowing. The fuse blew last Saturday, and after a week of just sitting, I tried working on the car without troubles from the fuse department. The ending result now is the fuse blows with the ignition key turned on, but didn't try to start the motor. Just turning on the ignition key was enough to blow the fuse.

I pulled the FP relay and ohmed it out: Pins 30 / 87C 0.09 ohms. I did this by taking the cap off and touching the two contacts together to get this reading.
Pins 86/85 ohmed out at 79.0 ohms.
I bought a new FP Relay and checked the same pins but this time Pins 85/86 ohmed out at 94.0 ohms.

I've completed a compression test on all 4 cylinders:
1: 170 psi
2: 160 psi
3: 170 psi
4: 180 psi
This has no relation to the electrical being it the issue is electrical. I was checking for anything that could, mechanically, cause a rough idle.

I checked the noise canceller on the driver side, rear head with one pin connected to it. There was oil on the pin, I cleaned it, but didn't do an ohms test on it.

The other possible issues are:
The ignition switch, FP, FP regulator, O2 Sensor's, Crankshaft Sensor, Camshaft sensor or any of the sensors having an open circuit or a wire in the wiring harness touching ground.

I googled on how to test the FP (ohms and voltage for the pt cruiser), I don't see a Shrader valve on the fuel rail on the either ends or in the middle of it. So I don't know if the FP is putting out the right amount of fuel pressure and I didn't see a fuel filter on the bottom of the car from the fuel tank to the fuel rail. Or I am just not recognizing a canister with two nipples on either end.

Any ideas? I must apologize for the lengthy post.
Thanks.
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