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Old 12 Oct 2014, 12:10 pm
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Default Doomed?

Going to get my cylinder head back from the machine shop tomorrow so I started working on getting the deck on the engine cleaned up. Much to my suprise I found some pitting on the head gasket surface around some of the coolant holes that let the coolant pass from the block to the head. I had major overheating problems that were because of the head gasket. Is there any kind of sealant I could use to fill in the pitted areas or am I screwed?
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Old 12 Oct 2014, 12:27 pm
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Default Re: Doomed?

I would first say NO.

I would however like a picture to see exactly what you are concerned about.
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Old 12 Oct 2014, 12:36 pm
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Cool Re: Doomed?

Head gasket/sealant should take care of any small pitting.
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Old 12 Oct 2014, 12:56 pm
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Default Re: Doomed?

Quote:
Originally Posted by soonercruiser View Post
Head gasket/sealant should take care of any small pitting.
Frank I would wait to see a picture. One of the causes of head gasket failure is re-installing a head/gasket in a block surface that has pits.

Although I only recommend experience individuals to do this..In my engine machine shop when someone was on a budget I would carefully apply on a clean prepped surface JB Weld to pitted area's of the iron block surface.

After the JB Weld has completely harden about 24 hours than you carefully sand the JB Weld with a block and 220 carefully to only sand level/smooth the JB Weld.
DO NOT SAND THE BLOCK SURFACE.

After completing you can vacuum and wipe with some cleaner the block surface and cylinder of any debris.

When this is done you can Re-install the cylinder head and gasket.
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Old 12 Oct 2014, 01:34 pm
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Default Re: Doomed?

I'm glad to read that a "professional" among us has used the JB Weld fix. I thought only DIY folks and small town poor boy mechanics used JB Weld.

Another poor boy fix is to use a large belt sander on the deck. I did this a few years ago on a Taurus engine with deck problems just as you described. Clean the block surface really well by hand with sandpaper. Then wipe down with high-acetone paint thinner. Then apply the JB Weld to the pits and scratches. Let it set for a couple of days or more. Then use the belt sander on the whole deck with medium sand paper and then fine.

The good with this is that it will remove very small pits and scratches and give you a flat surface across the JB Weld. The bad is that you can ever-so-slightly cause an uneven surface across the head if you over do it. But you really have to over do it to mess up like that. I used an air-driver 18 inch belt sander when I did it. The bigger the better. Smaller sanders can create low places concentrated in the area being cleaned up. Also, assure you have sealed up the cylinders so trash from sanding does not get in them. I've used shop towels sealed in the cylinders with masking tape. I then vacuum really well before removal.

Another possibly better choice than JB Weld is to fill the pits with brass. I've seem my daddy do that. But he was a true artist with a brazing torch. I've seen him fix a cracked head with brass too. Amazing if done right.

Also, be sure and use a very good head gasket. I am currently partial to Felpro. I used to like Victor when then dipped the whole gasket in sealer. But I don't think Victor offers those anymore. NitroPT or one of the other true motoheads may have a better gasket recommendation.
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Old 12 Oct 2014, 02:26 pm
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Default Re: Doomed?

I would never recommend the use of any sanding what ever to the block surface area on specific engines referenced to this forum PT Cruisers 1.6,2.0 and 2.4 engines.

The engines use a Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets. This means that the head during lifting under combustion pressure as the engine rpms increase will continue to seal using a MLS gasket up to a point unlike early v-8 engines of pre 90's using traditional gaskets. The head and block surface area must be squared and even. Anyill- regularity will compromise the head and block sealing.

As for head gasket recommendation let me just say that always when possible my personal first choice is Fel-Pro. However there are no bad or less than quality gasket that I am aware of to use on the 3 engines I mentioned.
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Last edited by NitroPT; 12 Oct 2014 at 05:38 pm. Reason: ill-regularity not regularity
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Old 12 Oct 2014, 04:46 pm
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Default Re: Doomed?

With out pictures this question can only be answered hypothetically. My advise would be to take those pictures to the shop doing your head tomorrow. If it's a worse case scenario of that pitting causing a water passage leak (I reference to the overheating you mentioned) they can determine if the block has to be resurfaced or it might be much to do about nothing. My brother just finished an eighty five year old 29 "A" engine. We talked at great lengths about a similar problem that was evaluated by a machine shop to be a non problem. I wouldn't advise you to take a belt sander to your block. Cool your heels till tomorrow till you talk to the machine shop doing your head. They're in the best position to advise you on that and the proper over sized gasket to use if it has to be resurfaced and being a machine shop, best able to correct it. Resurfacing a block ,might, could, be done with portable machinery now. I've been out of that game as an avocation for about twenty years, when I finally stopped restoring cars. good luck. P.S. When you go to get you head back, ask them if the resurfacing tool took an equal amount off for the whole pass. Sometime resurfacing if the head is warped will miss align the cam towers when the head is torqued down! good luck. ptprice
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Old 12 Oct 2014, 05:02 pm
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Default Re: Doomed?

Your information would be good if your were talking about an engine 20+ years ago.

Guys really this is a whole different animal when it comes to machining!

And telling engine machine shop how to surface a head??? Maybe ask for a job application while your at it!
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Old 12 Oct 2014, 05:18 pm
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Default Re: Doomed?

PM sent
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Old 12 Oct 2014, 06:49 pm
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