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leak down test (sorry kind of long)

 
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Old 14 Nov 2014, 01:22 am
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Default leak down test (sorry kind of long)

i have a 06 non turbo engine that keeps giving me a #1 misfire rough idle and allot of problems with engine light blinking and a beep allot

ok pressure test 110 on /1 all other were 170 to 180 i did not do the oil in the cylinder
i did a leak down test at tdc #1 air was coming out of #3 cylinder so i put the plug back in all the leak was going out the tail pipe.
nothing or no sound out of the oil dip stick (checking for cylinder rings leaking)
no bubbles in antifreeze nothing out of the intake no sound of leak
i did #2 and had very little leakeage on guage i watched allot of videos on utube about checking the condition on my car so no need to check any other cylinder. also was told if not at tdc the engine would just turn when air put in. that never happened

so i decided it was a valve problem now after taking it to a machine shop after his inspection he did not think it was a valve problem this was just him looking at the head no test were done yet man was it burned up inside the piston head and valves he did say this showed high mileage (108,000) on the engine

now my question if doing the leak down if not completely on tdc would that make the valves off set and cause a leak keep in mind all the test led to valve prolems with misfire code on #1 and real rough idle qustion did i do all the test right i posted early on this problem all codes did not come back on after new spark plug wiring had like a total of 6 faulty codes just 1 now

i will keep posting on how things go with the machine shop then after together how it runs funny thing ordered off ebay out of california a gasket kit 75.00 cheaper than locally at 133.00+tax price(59.98 ) comes with head bolts also go figure
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Old 14 Nov 2014, 01:33 am
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Default Re: leak down test (sorry kind of long)

Hmm maybe go to another auto machine shop?

The proper procedure would have been to pressure checked the head.

The hillbilly method( I have used a few times myself) is solvent in a port to see sepage at the valve.

But just a look at the head and say no head problem? O- righty then!
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Old 14 Nov 2014, 09:53 am
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Default Re: leak down test (sorry kind of long)

Turn head over and pour alcohol or parts wash in chamber. Valves will leak due to carbon, rust on face (from sitting with that lobe open), so a little leakage is OK. You can 'snap' valves to crush carbon or rust.

If air's leaking out exhaust, just tell them to replace exhaust valves. Use simple instructions when dealing with these people so there's no confusion.

Seats, at that mileage, are usually OK. Grinding seats, when it's not needed, leads to problems: They won't grind angles right, and then they won't set 'tip height', so it will end up more screwed up then just replacing valves.

I suppose they could screw that up, too.
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Old 14 Nov 2014, 11:53 am
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Default Re: leak down test (sorry kind of long)

When I removed the head from my 2001 NA PT the valves and seats looked like popcorn,at 92,000..
I' not blaming the car,It was driven 5mi a day for 4 years with terrible gas,the one with tectron in it.also water ,dirt ,sludge ,and ethanol
it wouldn't pass a molasses test.
Had seats slightly ground,replaced exhaust valves and polished and lapped the intake valves as well as lapping the new exhaust valves.
I don't remember this motor ever running this good,and I use a bottle of Lucas cleaner/lubricant every month in it now...
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Old 25 Nov 2014, 07:22 am
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Default Re: leak down test (sorry kind of long)

got the head back it was a burned valve on #1 cylinder so it cost me 285 fot a complete head job --pressue test and valves and surface everything came back looking new. i been doing other things so i have not spent allot of time on the engine.
the problem i am having it looks like the cam did not line up right the arrows or lines look like the off a thooth all the pictures i seen they look like there right on line even with the exhaust a little lower i think i have to loosen the cams and turn it one thooth both intake and exht gear is off with the crank at tdc both arrows line up correctly ..
i have not ever been through a pain with the timing belt it is a knckle buster trying to get on
now if the was a machanic around louisville kentucky that could help me set the timing belt i would be gladely pay good money for the help i will probably go on with it myself but a second pair of hands for a hour at the most i have a warm garage so that no problem with the cold. send me a message i will call or contact you by phone
the head is on torqe eveything right as per service manual i done this before but not this lol.
do not forget machanic would be helpfull for a hour thanks
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Old 25 Nov 2014, 11:33 pm
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Default Re: leak down test (sorry kind of long)

Put a straight edge through cam bolt centers. Ensure you have rotated crank two full turns before verifying. If they are off a bit, you really don't have any choice!
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Old 26 Nov 2014, 03:14 am
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Default Re: leak down test (sorry kind of long)

one more question if you put on the exht cam and the pin is not completely down 180 from top i had to take a socket to hold it in line then tighten the cam down is this correct ???? even after tight it seemed to move a little anyway
right now i have everything lined up correctly crank both arrows line up and both cams gears are lined up i can not move anything with the belt tensioner tight so i have to wiggle the intake gear so everything lines up i think i just past it a little (tdc) everything moves together so i'm thinking finally got it
So as long as the arrows line up i sould be ok right?

one thing funny i had to remove the tentioner. with the belt on,, reinstall the tentioner, then fix the spring, then adjust tight. one set of hands makes it hard
sorry for the beginner questions i hate to do this again
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Old 26 Nov 2014, 12:43 pm
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Default Re: leak down test (sorry kind of long)

I'm not sure exactly what you mean.

If the cam pin is intact, cam gear marks have no choice but to follow.
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