Sliding a 2.4 engine over for ez access?

[Ptom]

I recently purchased a 2007 with a non turbo 2.4. It needs a head gasket replacement. I have viewed several articles that show the work involved.

However, prior to getting my PT , I ran into someone who owned one and he mentioned that It is much easier to work on the engine if it is "slided over" toward the drivers side. I don't recall what he had to remove first to accomplish this ( drive axle? ) but was wondering if anyone may have any idea what he may have been referring to remove, which would allow the engine to be slid over to gain easier access to the timing belt? I'm not sure if he had a manual or automatic transmission when he "slid" his engine over to work on the belt side.

I do appreciate all the comments many have made to others on various fixes. , thought maybe someone else may have some ideas on this.
thanks
Tom

[LionPT]

I have no idea what he's talking about...but when you do replace the head gasket, replace the timing belt, tensioner & water pump while your in there.

[Handy_Cruiser]

Yep.

No sliding, but the engine is MUCH more accessible once the right side is raised. Of course, you will need to do this to get the timing belt off anyway. But it also makes it much easier to get at everything on the front of the engine.

Getting to the exhaust manifold and back of the engine will likely be just the opposite. I found that letting the engine down and swinging it forward a little really helps on the back side.

Also, there's no need to depressurize the AC system nor remove the radiator. If you are very careful you can basically jack the right side of the engine up to almost 25 degrees without taking much loose but the right motor mounts. At least, that's the way it is on the turbo engine. And I did it three times while working on my valve train for some reground camshafts. I didn't remove the head, but everything became much more accessible once the right side was raised.

PS: Make sure you take your removed cylinder head to a good machine/engine shop to have it rebuilt and tested. This is pretty well a must if the car has blown a head gasket.

[Ptom]

Originally Posted by Handy_Cruiser

Yep.



Also, there's no need to depressurize the AC system nor remove the radiator.

If you are very careful you can basically jack the right side of the engine up to almost 25 degrees without taking much loose but the right motor mounts.
PS: Make sure you take your removed cylinder head to a good machine/engine shop to have it rebuilt and tested. This is pretty well a must if the car has blown a head gasket.

oK, so your saying that I should be able to get the brackets and mount removed without removing the AC lines then? That's Cool. I was going to remove them but that saves me a bit. thanks for that point.

Do you really think a head would have to be rebuilt (89000 miles, ) because the head gasket has a leak?
Do you think new head bolts should be replaced too?

thanks
tom

[rob342]

i can't imagine doing this with the AC lines in the way. it's already a cramped crappy area to work in. just because you can doesn't mean you should.

you don't NEED to have the head rebuilt. you need to check it for straightness with a machinists straight edge and feeler gauges. if the head is warped it's junk and it's solely the fault of whomever overheated it severely enough to cause it.

[rob342]

This may help with my previous post Whats the Head flat spec. for head gasket.

[Handy_Cruiser]

Originally Posted by Ptom

oK, so your saying that I should be able to get the brackets and mount removed without removing the AC lines then? That's Cool. I was going to remove them but that saves me a bit. thanks for that point.

Do you really think a head would have to be rebuilt (89000 miles, ) because the head gasket has a leak?
Do you think new head bolts should be replaced too?

thanks
tom

Yep.

Easy-peasy.

At least it was on my 2005 PT. Your mileage may vary.


Notice how easy it is to get to the front of the engine. I will discuss this more when I actually do a "Handy" thread on this. But basically, I set the jack up where I could work it with my foot. And I gently rocked the engine back and forth to assure nothing was binding or getting hung up while I raised it.




Timing component were no trouble to get to. I replace everything including the main seal.




And I went further in than most folks do just for a timing job since I was installing performance camshafts and having to make some fairly uncommon valve train adjustments.




On rebuilding the head after a blown head gasket and resulting overheating episode? YES - 100%. I would have have the head rebuilt and tested. There is no question. And you will be glad you did. It's very cheap insurance and worth it.

And here's the answer on the head bolt question.

Are head bolts torque-to-yield? Replace them?

[Ptom]

ok , the plan is to take the head in the shop and have them check it out for any problems, thanks for your input and link.

[FlyinPurplePeopleEater]

I blew a head gasket on my jag with aluminum heads and I believe our motors also have aluminum heads so yes to the machine shop since aluminum is more prone to warping when overheating.

Have them check it for straightness, if its warped slightly they may be able to deck it (machine down to flat), check for a dropped valve seat (dunno if that's ever a problem with these heads but it was on the jag), pressure test it, and mag flux it or whatever they do on aluminum heads to check for cracks. Shouldn't be too expensive, around $100 I believe but I can't remember what I paid. If it checks out then no rebuild is necessary and you have peace of mind when reassembling your motor.

Sorry I can't help on the whole timing belt thing, I haven't done one on these cars yet. I will be soon but the motor I'm doing it on is on a stand so different story.

[Handy_Cruiser]

I've probably averaged doing one head or set of heads every two years. Normally, the machine shop will soak the head in a vat, then do a complete valve grind job including new stem seals, then level the stems, then assure the deck is flat and do a pressure test for leaks. Magnaflux doesn't work on aluminum heads. (At least it didn't way back in the day). But there's a two-stage dye they can spray on the head that will help point out cracks visually.