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strut tower bar and stock setup question

 
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Old 26 May 2004, 01:28 am
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Boston, MA, USA.
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Default strut tower bar and stock setup question

i have a 2004 touring edition - will the freedom design strut bar make any difference in handling (i have a completely stock setup)? what type of torque wrench will i need to put it on (i read something about 3/8)? how do you remove the nuts without stripping or snapping the bolts? i used the search feature - and so far i came up with how to secure the bar but nothing else. is this an easy job for a mechancal butterfingers (i have NO mechanical skills at all) or should i forget it?
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Old 26 May 2004, 03:09 am
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Location: Los Angeles, California, USA.
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The Freedom Design strut bar will tighten up the front end and the handling difference is noticible. A 3/8" torque wrench is fine. Just make sure it can do low torque settings like 10 ft-lbs or lower. Although the torque setting for the strut nuts is 25 ft-lbs, I would strongly suggest starting with 10 ft-lbs and the torque ALL the nuts to that setting first, The increase the setting 5 ft-lbs and torque again. Continue until you finish at 25 ft-lbs. The reason I mention this is that many have broken/snapped the studs off when trying to torque the nuts directly at 25 ft-lbs.

To install your FD strut bar, just remove 2 strut nuts (center and front ones) from each side. Place the strut bar into the right side and just start the nuts on the threads to hold that side in. For the left side you will need a large screwdriver or pry bar and gently position the left strut bar plate over the bolts and press down into place. It is actually easier that it sounds and will not bend or mar any sheet metal or scratch the paint. The FD strut bar has some tension built into it and is why it won't just drop into place. Then install the nuts on the left side and start your torqueing procedure. Remember to torque all three nuts on each side. Mine were loose or were not torqued to specs. Also add a bit of oil or grease to the threads before you start the nuts or torque the nuts down so you get a true torque reading. Can recheck the torque a few days or week later, but it should check out ok.

Hope this helps.
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Old 26 May 2004, 07:42 pm
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Sci-Fi gave you all of the info you need. I had to adjust things a bit by turning the protruding offending to one side.

I purchased a 3/8" drive racheting in/lbs torque wrench at a flea market for less than $20.00. I find that it works as well as a Craftsman for $55.00.
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Old 27 May 2004, 08:09 am
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Sci-Fi covered you except your question on removing the existing nuts - that's not the problem, it's over-tightening after you have the strut bar on. You'll feel the more direct steering. [?]
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