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broken hear4ted

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 17 Apr 2017, 11:52 am
Fresh Cruiser
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: mooresville nc
Posts: 9
Cool broken hear4ted

got a 05 touring edition 2.4litre turbo. paid $200. new it had a bad turbo when I got it. smoked like crazy. got it towed to house and been messing with it whenever I could get on my feet. broke a leg 4 years ago and have had 9 operations so for so I haven't had a lot of up time. so I replaced the turbo/exhaust manifold cleaned out return tube to oil pan. new gaskets on intake and exhaust etc. put a new battery in it and cranked it up. smoked for a bit but figured that was residule in exhaust from oil being dumped in from bad turbo, right? ran it fotr awhile and smoke slowly went away and all was well. took interior apart and cleaned, replaced all speakers and generally just fixed any little things I could find. took it for a ride today and ran pretty good til I got into it a little and it started smoking again. doesn't really smoke sitting in driveway but when you gas it uo it will smoke. has good compression in all four 150 in three and 148 in the other. no oil in water and no overheating problems. ive really come to like this car but its killing me. anybody got any ideas or fixes. I would appreciate any input. helpless here in nc
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 17 Apr 2017, 12:25 pm
Obsessed Cruiser
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Lake Wales, FL
Posts: 5,011
Default Re: broken hear4ted

Just drive it for a few days and see if it improves. I just think that it will take several drive cycles of getting it to full operating temp to burn out all of the oil in the exhaust.
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Old 17 Apr 2017, 01:03 pm
Fresh Cruiser
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: mooresville nc
Posts: 9
Default Re: broken hear4ted

thanks for that advice, another guy replied the same. I'm hoping that's the solution. appreciate the reply
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Old 17 Apr 2017, 03:32 pm
Obsessed Cruiser
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 7,493
Default Re: broken hear4ted

Whether your turbo is new, rebuilt or has been on your car for a while,
here are just a few solutions to some common problems which might save you the
trouble of pulling the turbo off only to have the same problem after it has
been replaced:

Existing oil in exhaust system still burning off from previous turbo

Many times when turbochargers fail they dump considerable amounts of
oil in the exhaust system. You can try to flush it out or continue
to run the car until the smoke disappears, but, this can take days.
Plan on replacing your catalytic converter soon because burnt oil will
quickly restrict air flow impeding performance. This can quickly lead
to other problems down the road including turbo failure.

Smoke is present at Cold Start Up

If your engine smokes immediately after a cold start the problem is most likely
not the turbo. The only place hot enough to turn oil into smoke during a cold
start is the combustion chamber. You need to focus on the intake valve seals,
guides or piston rings as the source of your oil. Check your spark plugs and
intercooler hoses for signs of oil also. Complete a compression and leak down test
to determine the overall condition of your engine.

Exhaust Valve Guides or Seals

If the spark plugs are clean and the exhaust does not smoke until after the vehicle
is warmed up the source of the oil may be the exhaust valve guides/seals. We have
seen several incidents where the guides/seals were improperly machined on freshly
built cylinder heads. Don't discount this possibility just because your cylinder
head was recently rebuilt. In the Lotus head TIII applications the seals are known for
unseating themselves.

Oil or blow-by pressure build up in Turbo Bearing Housing.

Turbo oil seals are usually made of carbon and, much like a single piston seal,
there is a gap that oil can seep through when pressure is present.

build up can be caused by one or more of the following reasons:

a) Blockage in drainback hose/tube.

Verify there are no foreign objects in the drainback hose/tube.
This could be the paper towel or duct tape you placed there during the
removal of your original turbo to prevent debris from falling in to your
oil pan during the swap.

b) Using wrong type of drainback hose.

Not using the factory silicon drainback hose is a common mistake. Silicon
hoses are heat and oil resistant where most standard heater hoses cannot
withstand these extreme conditions for very long. Most standard hoses
are actually 2-3 hoses separated by braided nylon. When
heater hose is used in place of the silicon version the nylon can actually shrink
with exposure to heat. This restricts the inner hose while leaving the exterior
hose looking perfect from the outside. Use the factory orange silicon hose
whenever possible or one of our blue silicon replacement hoses. There are
no advantages to using any other type of hoses for this application. Turbo
removal not required. Once issue is addressed piston seals should reseat
on their own and oil seepage will no longer be a problem.

c) Oil return flange gasket issues

This is a “dry” gasket so do not use RTV on it. Even the slightest bit that
may get squeezed into the flow of the return oil will impede the gravitational
flow of oil back into your oil pan. Oil pressure will build up in the turbo bearing
housing to the point where oil is pushed past the seals. Remove all RTV from the
area and replace the gasket. Seals will reseat on their own.

d) Wrong oil drainback line angle.

Turbo oil drainback is powered only by gravity. Angles in excess of 20
degrees will impede oil return flow and pressure build up in the bearing
housing may result. Also be sure to maintain a smooth curve from turbo to
engine and prevent any kinks in the line which may cause a back-up and
eventual pressurization of the bearing housing.

e) Oil feedline pressure exceeds drainback tube capabilities.

Verify oil pressure is not excessive. 60 PSI at idle for a
warmed up engine is WAY too much. 10psi per 1000 RPM is a good rule of
thumb. Any more pressure is robbing your engine of HP. Too much oil can
pressurize the turbo bearing housing if the gravity fed drainback cannot
keep up. This pressurization will force the oil past the turbine shaft
piston seals and into the exhaust or compressor side of the turbo. Over
time, too much pressure can actually be harmful to your entire engine.
With excessive pressure, impurities in your oil can actually eat away at your
bearing surfaces and increase tolerances much like extrude honing works.
Don't use the MP Oil Pressure Relief Spring Kit or Mellings High
Volume/Pressure oil pump. TU strongly advises against High V/P pumps.
Turbo removal not required. Once issue is addressed piston seals should
reseat on their own and oil seepage will no longer be a problem.

f) Blow-by in crankcase caused by worn engine, cracked pistons,
rings, faulty PVC systems, etc.

Crank cases pressurized by blow-by can also cause oil to be forced past
the turbine shaft piston seals. Complete a compression check and leakdown
test to check the condition of your engine. There is also a blow-by
detection tool which is placed over the oil cap opening while the engine
is running and measures crank case pressures. Be sure to inspect your
crank case evacuation system to make sure the issue is not being caused by
a bad PCV valve. If you find your oil dipstick out of the tube a few inches
after some spirited driving you are most likely experiencing blow-by.
Once issue is addressed piston seals should reseat on their own and oil
seepage will no longer be a problem.

g) Chrysler Valve Cover Oil Baffle TSB

There was a Chrysler TSB in the late 80’s pointing out that some Turbo Valve
Cover oil baffles were not sealed properly. Oil was being drawn through the
baffle from the bottom and being drawn into the PCV and air filtering system.
Removing the VC baffle and resealing it with RTV resolved the problem.
A few people have modified and installed a TBI VC inner cover which also helps
reduce the chances that oil will be drawn into the PCV system.

For some, the turbocharger is still the mysterious “black box”
which isn’t fully understood. Because of this, it is usually looked upon first
when exhaust smoke is present. As we pointed out in the above examples
the turbo may be the source of the oil, but, in most cases it is only the
result of the problem and not at fault. Once corrective actions are taken
the issues can be resolved without the expense and labor of removing and
replacing the turbocharger.
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 18 Apr 2017, 08:43 am
Senior Cruiser
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,674
Default Re: broken hear4ted

I did almost the exact same thing as you. I bought an 03 GT 5spd with a blown turbo for $275. It was puking oil into the intake/exhaust too and making a horrible smoke show behind the car. After I replaced the turbo, I disconnected the lower intercooler hose, at the intercooler, and flexed it down. About one liter of oil drained out of it and the intercooler. Once I had drained it out of there I reconnected it and drove it pretty hard for several km. The residual oil inside the hoses and intercooler burned off and I have been smoke free for many thousands of Km's now.

So, if you haven't already, its definitely worth it to disconnect the hose and see if yours is full of old oil too.
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