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Engine Runs Rough After Water Pump Change

 
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Old 16 May 2017, 09:40 am
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Default Engine Runs Rough After Water Pump Change

Hello Everyone,

I replaced the head gasket on my 02 cruiser several weeks ago and she fired right up and ran great. Problem is that I did not change the water pump and it ended up being the failure that caused the motor to overheat in the first place. Two days ago, I dug back in and replaced the pump (lesson learned on doing it all at the same time). I checked the timing several times to assure I was correct and I put it back together. Now, the car runs rough and is hard to start, like I am off a tooth. I checked compression yesterday and I got 168,170,166,165, which seems to be within spec.
My questions is "is a compression test the proper way to diagnose correct timing position(as well as overall cylinder health). My thought was, if the timing was off a tooth the valves would not be creating a full seal on compression at any time, but I'm not sure that is the case. I followed shop manual instructions on timing belt setup and after two revolutions I checked and everything appeared to line up perfectly. If I can help it,I don't want to disassemble it again.

Please feel free to chime in on the subject. I would appreciate any insight or advice. Thanks for taking the time to read this thread.

Jason
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Old 16 May 2017, 10:14 am
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Default Re: Engine Runs Rough After Water Pump Change

Welcome to the forum from Texas.

When you say that you checked the timing a few times, did you rotate the crank two revolutions and double check the marks? The description you are giving sounds like a tooth off.
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Old 16 May 2017, 11:26 am
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Default Re: Engine Runs Rough After Water Pump Change

VsandFords,

Thank you for your reply. Yes, I gave two revolutions and rechecked timing prior to assembly. I did this two consecutive times as I wanted to be sure, due to the work involved.

The shop manual was a bit confusing however. It shows that the exhaust cam mark should be a half tooth lower than intake side during assembly. and to assemble the belt in counterclockwise starting at the crank. I assume that once it is set up like that, then after the two revolutions the timing marks would be exactly lined up (which they appeared to be). I'm not supposed to still be half-tooth off after assembly and rotation am I?

Thanks again for taking the time to reply.
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Old 16 May 2017, 11:37 am
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Default Re: Engine Runs Rough After Water Pump Change

The marks should line up as in this pic posted by xwing777. There are tons of pictures on the forum by other people how have done this job.

[IMG][/IMG]

You didn't pull the intake apart, did you? If not, maybe check all vacuum lines for a leak. Did you disconnect the coils or any other electrical connectors?
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Old 16 May 2017, 01:26 pm
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Default Re: Engine Runs Rough After Water Pump Change

Ok, the marks line up just as shown in your photo. The upper and lower intake were removed and gaskets are new. I did a cursory check for vacuum and I did find that the egr vent tube was not aligned correctly which as bleeding air but after correcting it the car still runs rough. I did install new spark plugs when I did the water pump so I can check plug wires and electrical as well.

Basically I was just wondering if there were any known issues that cause my symptoms after doing this work. I guess I am going to have to rule out the timing belt by pulling the crank pulley and cover off to verify. In your opinion, would you think that the engine would create 165-170psi compression (when cold) if it were a tooth off? Maybe I should let it run for a bit then take a compression test then?

Thanks again for taking the time to help me diagnose this issue.

Jason
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Old 16 May 2017, 02:06 pm
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Default Re: Engine Runs Rough After Water Pump Change

IMO, you could have good compression being a tooth off. The problem is the timing of the spark with when the valves open/close. I could be wrong, never had that scenario to test.
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Old 16 May 2017, 10:42 pm
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Default Re: Engine Runs Rough After Water Pump Change

I would suggest using a vacuum gauge for reading, if the belt is off a tooth it will reflect in either a very high idle HG or very low.

An engine that is in good condition will idle between 16-18 steady on most 2.4 engines.
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