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Intermitant no crank -always goes eventually, so far

 
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Old 24 Jun 2017, 08:25 pm
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Location: Naples Fl
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Default Intermitant no crank -always goes eventually, so far

My PT is 2006 limited with turbo. My wife drives it and told my that when she tried to start it it would not turnover and then when she tried to start it a second time it did. This happened to her a couple of times over a period of about two weeks, then one time she had to try a third time. I got involved and asked a lot of questions. Is the check engine light on? NO. When she turns the key all the way on just prior to start does the check engine light come on? Yes. When she turns the key just prior to starting the car does not prevent her from turning the key to the full start position. It is just that nothing happens. I was going to check attach a hot wire to the hot side of the starter solenoid with a button switch to the battery so she wouldn't get stuck someplace but the solenoid is not very acceptable. I am not sure, but it seems to happen when it is very hot outside and the car has been sitting in the heat. Any ideas before I have to remove the radiator or something to get to the solenoid. Is there another place to address it? Fuse box? Relay?

Thanks

Last edited by CREWZIN; 25 Jun 2017 at 08:10 am.
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Old 24 Jun 2017, 08:37 pm
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Default Re: Intermitant no crack -always goes eventually, so far

I would first check the battery, battery cables and connections. (easy stuff) If all is good, check the starter.
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Old 24 Jun 2017, 09:15 pm
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Default Re: Intermitant no crack -always goes eventually, so far

I would suggest a battery load test. Checking the battery and cables as posted above is a good idea but also have a battery load test done. The TIPM is sensitive to low voltage and with my 2007 Pt Cruiser I usually need to replace the battery once a year to keep it from having starting issues.
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Old 24 Jun 2017, 09:33 pm
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Default Re: Intermitant no crack -always goes eventually, so far

Thanks. I have never heard of an intermittent starter and there should be a solenoid click with a bad starter. I know with all the electronic modules and software the cars today are sensitive to low voltage, even if it is an instantaneous drop. What does the acronym stand for?
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Old 24 Jun 2017, 09:46 pm
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Default Re: Intermitant no crack -always goes eventually, so far

TIPM - Totally Integrated Power Module



It's located right behind the airbox.
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Old 25 Jun 2017, 06:45 am
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Default Re: Intermitant no crack -always goes eventually, so far

Could be some type of thermal expansion in the ignition switch too. Take a plain piece of white cardboard and fashion a shield over the switch. Even a thin piece of white poster board will work. Just make sure you get the top of the steering column and switch shaded by the "shield". I had a two way radio years ago when I ran my own delivery service that would stop transmitting when it got hot. Once it cooled down, it would work. Of course the local Motorola shop couldn't find the problem because once they'd removed it in their shop and tested everything, it would be cooled off. I made a shield of white poster board to put over it in the middle of the day and that cured it! Drove the guys at Motorola crazy that I'd come up with the idea and not them! If it's in the switch, this may take care of it. If not, then I don't have other suggestions.
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Old 04 Jul 2017, 11:36 am
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Default Re: Intermitant no crank -always goes eventually, so far

I had the battery tested under load and they said it was marginal. I replaced the battery and cleaned and sanded all wire connections that I could find and get to. (Two on the positive terminal at the battery end only as I can't get to the other end. All the ground wires coming from the TIPM to the side wall as well as the battery ground to the side wall at the side wall and at the battery). So far no problem. We will see. Can't check for codes until 50 starts.
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Old 27 Dec 2018, 07:52 pm
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Default Re: Intermitant no crack -always goes eventually, so far

Quote:
Originally Posted by ptcruisersteve View Post
I would suggest a battery load test. Checking the battery and cables as posted above is a good idea but also have a battery load test done. The TIPM is sensitive to low voltage and with my 2007 Pt Cruiser I usually need to replace the battery once a year to keep it from having starting issues.
Thanks, Steve. I'm having the same problem as the OP.
My battery is 4 months old. The one before that was about 16 months old when replaced due to not starting the car. Just a week ago these new symptoms appeared. I was thinking maybe the ignition switch is failing. It does not require a second crank all the time, but quite often. I have to wonder if it will strand me soon.
Could a faulty ign. sw. cause a parasitic draw?
Is it a big job replacing the ign. switch? I know it's not as easy as older cars cuz of the chipped key and reader.
Anybody else have this problem ? Thanks in advance.
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Old 28 Dec 2018, 07:07 am
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Default Re: Intermitant no crank -always goes eventually, so far

dare I ask if you got a AAA battery? on another note, if you want a happy car, always get the premium battery with the 3year... other than the good tips in this post, all the wires in the engine compartment tend to rub somewhere, like on the radiator.

hey! another Arizona cruiser! p.s.- the triple A batteries are absolute junk.
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Old 28 Dec 2018, 12:35 pm
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Default Re: Intermitant no crack -always goes eventually, so far

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffz View Post
Thanks, Steve. I'm having the same problem as the OP.
My battery is 4 months old. The one before that was about 16 months old when replaced due to not starting the car. Just a week ago these new symptoms appeared. I was thinking maybe the ignition switch is failing. It does not require a second crank all the time, but quite often. I have to wonder if it will strand me soon.
Could a faulty ign. sw. cause a parasitic draw?
Is it a big job replacing the ign. switch? I know it's not as easy as older cars cuz of the chipped key and reader.
Anybody else have this problem ? Thanks in advance.
I would suggest taking it to an auto parts store where they will do a battery load test for free. Make sure they adjust the meter for a 4 cylinder engine.

If you want to test the battery yourself we have a thread by NitroPt that explains it very well.
Nitro's way of checking a battery

Depending on the brand type battery you buy you might be getting some continuous corrosion on the battery cables if the battery is leaking out some gases. Anytime it starts to require more than one crank that is the first thing I would do if the battery checks out good. Take the battery cables off the battery and clean the contacts. I always put grease on the battery cables after cleaning the battery posts and battery cables to keep the battery gases from getting to the battery cables.

Before going near the ignition switch i would check the voltage on the 12 volt wire going to the starter from the ignition switch. Some members have replaced the ignition only to find out the problem was elsewhere. Always do a proper diagnosis before replacing unnecessary parts.

Usually on a battery parasite drain you will notice it after shutting down the Pt Cruiser overnight and then in the morning it requires more than one crank or a battery jump. Check to see if your battery voltage is 12.5 volts or higher after letting the Pt Cruiser sit for a while. I would check to make sure it is always 12.5 volts or higher without the engine running. If it is lower than 12.5 volts always check the battery first.

Post what you find out.
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Last edited by ptcruisersteve; 28 Dec 2018 at 12:47 pm.
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