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re: Engine Mount Replacement ... I'd really rather not

 
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Old 16 Sep 2017, 06:36 am
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Default re: Engine Mount Replacement ... I'd really rather not

Okay, so my daily driver is on desperate need of front motor mount replacement. The one mounted in the passenger side frame.

It's just turned over 276k and just to prove a point, I'd like to leave the engine intact to see how long it goes before the head MUST come off.

I'd really like to just replace the mount without yanking the head or engine. There must be a way I can secure the engine's weight to get the job done.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

Bob in Liberty MO
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Old 16 Sep 2017, 09:43 am
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Default Re: Engine Mount Replacement ... I'd really rather not

You do not need to pull the engine/trans, but it does need to be hoisted enough so you can get access to it.

The important thing is to carefully watch ALL the lines and hoses wire connectors ETC during lifting. I would really recommend to have a shop empty you AC so you can disconnect the AC lines while doing this. The chances of you damaging them leaving them connected is very high.
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Old 16 Sep 2017, 01:39 pm
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Default Re: Engine Mount Replacement ... I'd really rather not

I replaced my engine mounts (all three of 'em), along with the timing belt and water pump, with the A/C lines in place. You gotta be a bit careful, but it can be done. The key was using a jack and a block of wood under the oil pan to (like Nitro already said) move the engine enough to get access to everything.
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Old 16 Sep 2017, 02:24 pm
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Default Re: Engine Mount Replacement ... I'd really rather not

Here's a shot of my engine lifted high enough to get the job done. AC line is still in place and is not an issue.

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Old 16 Sep 2017, 03:19 pm
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Default Re: Engine Mount Replacement ... I'd really rather not

NitroPT says "hoist" and your picture seems to "lift."

If I hoist, I remember one loop at the transmission end of the engine, but no others. Is this one sufficiently centered.

Handy, if I lift, block under the oil pan as I would doing the timing belt replacement?

Thanks in advance.

Bob in Liberty MO
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Old 16 Sep 2017, 04:07 pm
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Default Re: Engine Mount Replacement ... I'd really rather not

Quote:
Originally Posted by RCSnyder View Post
NitroPT says "hoist" and your picture seems to "lift."

If I hoist, I remember one loop at the transmission end of the engine, but no others. Is this one sufficiently centered.

Handy, if I lift, block under the oil pan as I would doing the timing belt replacement?

Thanks in advance.

Bob in Liberty MO
They are the same thing...
I would seriously be careful and Hoist/lift the engine/transmission slowly and have an assistant so you both can watch for anything that may become damaged that was not disconnected.


hoist
hoist/Submit
verb
1.
raise (something) by means of ropes and pulleys etc.


ift
lift/Submit
verb
1.
raise to a higher position or level.
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Old 17 Sep 2017, 03:48 pm
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Default Re: Engine Mount Replacement ... I'd really rather not

At some point in the procedure (don't remember exactly when) I used the jack and block to LOWER the engine as well. This may have occurred when it was time to unbolt the middle engine mount...
Oh, and my '06 has metal refrigerant lines, if that makes a difference (guessing their lack of flexibility makes 'em even worse to deal with).
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Old 17 Sep 2017, 09:01 pm
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Default Re: Engine Mount Replacement ... I'd really rather not

Quote:
Originally Posted by RCSnyder View Post
NitroPT says "hoist" and your picture seems to "lift."

If I hoist, I remember one loop at the transmission end of the engine, but no others. Is this one sufficiently centered.

Handy, if I lift, block under the oil pan as I would doing the timing belt replacement?

Thanks in advance.

Bob in Liberty MO

The lifting is pretty simple. I placed a board beneath the engine to support the oil pan. I then lifted the engine with a rolling floor jack. I stood beside the PT on the right side and gently rocked the engine back and forth as I worked the jack with my foot. By rocking the engine, I was able to avoid getting it hung on anything as it rose. I did this until the exhaust pipe topped out again the bottom of the car. That's the height shown in the photo. And at that height, the entire belt job can be done. It's pretty easy.

When I did the belt job pictured, I was also experimenting with a set of performance camshafts where I had to make some slight modifications to the valve train. So I did this lift three times. I got pretty good at it using the rocking method. Since then I've learn that I could have removed and replaced the camshafts with the timing belt in place.
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Old 17 Sep 2017, 09:07 pm
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Default Re: Engine Mount Replacement ... I'd really rather not

My son did his 2002 timing belt a couple summers ago. His has the metal A/C lines, and he did disconnect them. However, he said afterward, that, probably if you were careful enough you could get away without doing that.

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Old 18 Sep 2017, 01:23 pm
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Default Re: Engine Mount Replacement ... I'd really rather not

I replaced my TB and center engine mount without removing the AC lines although officially, it is recommended.



Either have someone spotting for you as you raise the engine with a jack or be very nimble and raise the engine about a half inch and inspect everything each time (lots of raising/stopping/inspecting). Things like A/C switches, sensors and AC accumulator can easily get broken off or bent if you don't get everything out of the way like the alternator and keep them out of the way.

A wide putty knife will help "shoehorn" things that require 1/16" more room than available (common in the PT engine compartment). It will also allow you to slide the engine back onto the center engine mount.

Quote:
At some point in the procedure (don't remember exactly when) I used the jack and block to LOWER the engine as well. This may have occurred when it was time to unbolt the middle engine mount...
I needed to lower the engine to it's maximum in order to get the lower big iron bracket bolt out. I've seen pictures where people cut a hole in the wheel well to get that bolt out
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