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Hello everyone,
My wife and I are experiencing a HOST of issues with our 2003 PT, Its a limited model, has 4 wheel disc/abs, A/T. My wife is alleging some mornings she is getting in the car and the heated seat element turns on without her touching it. She'll drive for awhile and the seat gets hot, then she knows it on. (i've never seen it, but I dont drive it that often). She also alleges that some times the cruise control won't even turn on! But then after turning the PT off and then back on, the cruise control will function. She alleges this doesn't happen too often, but enough to piss you off when you wanna use it. (this i've seen, it has happen to me). She also alleges that the car will die at idle when running the AC. She says the PT stutters and then shuts off. Often times shell just turn the A/C to off and the car will restart and run fine. (she alleges the car still does this even after I cleaned out the throttle-body and replaced the IAC with a new one from borg-warner. The car drove really smooth for a long time after the new IAC when I drove it. Also I had the alternator and the A/C compressor rebuilt and put new belts on the car around the same time, which was about 1 and half months ago. I also replaced the dryer and lines. The only thing that is old is the condenser... which looked fine to me and the A/C shop. My wife says on really hot days the A/C is not what it used to be (i've felt it, its really not). Also considering we have like 4% tint on the whole car and 20% on the whole windshield.... should be a lot cooler!!!! The last problem is really grinding my gears! My wife was driving home a few days ago and she alleges she heard a loud clunk sound and then the brakes started grinding. I came out and saw the caliper flopping up. I jacked the PT up and saw the driver side lower bracket/caliper bolt had backed out completely and was gone! The upper one was loose. The passenger side bolts were also loose, but not super bad. I have replaced the brakes every-time on this car for the last 10 years, never had a problem. Every car we own that I've done brakes on, I've never "torqued" the caliper bolts. they are usually 25 ft lbs, thats hand tight anyway. I went to chrysler, got a factory bolt, got new pads and rotors for both sides, since the rotor and pads were ruined on that side. I replaced it all. Now in the drivers side, you can hear the grinding noise coming from the wheel, especially when you turn it. I can see the metal shavings all over and the awkward wear pattern being put onto the rotor. I checked the bleed valve, it looks like fluid is still pouring out from it. I don't see the pads contracting though. I am assuming the caliper is stuck and needs to be replaced. I can't find anyone in Las Vegas to rebuild my factory caliper, which is my preferred method. and I need this to be done ASAP. A factory caliper has to be ordered, its 4 days out. new is $171, reman is 142 from chrysler. napa $52, autozone $42, oreily.. $47 the most concerning is that Chrysler needed the VIN b/c there are 5 option available for calipers. How come giant parts stores only show one? Could the failing caliper also be why often times the traction light and ABS light would just stay on for days and then go off, or stay off for weeks and then come on for a few hours and go off while driving? could the piston failing at that exact moment exert enough energy to pop the bolt out of the threads? any help to get this under control would be appreciated!!!!!! |
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If at First You Don't Succeed - Try, Try Again |
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I don't have any check engine light on. But my scan tool doesn't even scan ABS codes.
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Disc Brake Caliper Adapter (To Knuckle) - Front 77 ft. lbs.
Disc Brake Caliper Adapter (To Knuckle) - Rear 70 ft. lbs. Disc Brake Caliper Guide Pin Bolts- Front 26 ft.lbs. Disc Brake Caliper Guide Pin Bolts- Rear 16 ft. lbs. Disc Brake Caliper Bleeder Screw 115 inch lbs. If I were your wife i'd think you were allegedly trying to kill me. ![]()
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The truth is that with skill, most folks could retrieve and erase basic power train trouble codes in a PT Cruiser without the reader. The problem is that many folks that don't already own a reader may not have that skill. Using an OBDII reader is easier so we often recommend folks get their own if they are going to work on their own car. But most often it's not a "bad idea" to use the key dance to initially retrieve codes. ![]()
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![]() Last edited by Handy_Cruiser; 21 Sep 2017 at 07:30 am. |
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![]() Since there's no trouble codes, I'd move on to the voltage test as I described. ![]()
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If at First You Don't Succeed - Try, Try Again Last edited by ptcruisersteve; 21 Sep 2017 at 12:11 pm. |
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Quit trying to imitate some of the bad attitudes we see here. If you don't like me, that's fine. I still like you. But please don't pick a fight over little minutia that is common knowledge. Folks have successfully used the Key Dance ever since it became available. It harder to clear the codes without a reader, but can be done on a PT when you don't have one. Again, we recommend the OBDII reader because it makes this much easier, but using the Key Dance when you don't have one is not a bad thing. Most people outside the influence of one of our stronger local personalities here know and understand this. The OP has a reader, so this is kind of off-topic for this thread. But I would be glad to discuss this more in another thread about it. To be exact, I've been going to make a How-to video but just haven't had the time yet. We could have a great adult conversation about this subject once I post the video. But for now, let's help the OP solve his problems. ![]()
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![]() Last edited by Handy_Cruiser; 21 Sep 2017 at 09:35 am. |
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If at First You Don't Succeed - Try, Try Again Last edited by ptcruisersteve; 21 Sep 2017 at 12:12 pm. |
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