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-   -   Rear Wheel Cylinder Leaking and more (http://www.ptcruiserlinks.com/forum/tech-performance-forum/65275-rear-wheel-cylinder-leaking-more.html)

sdcoil 06 Dec 2017 01:56 pm

Rear Wheel Cylinder Leaking and more
 
Hi All, glad you are here!

I've a friend who has a 2007 PT Cruiser with rear drum brakes. The right rear wheel cylinder was leaking (it completely blew), so I changed it out with one I bought from AutoZone and bled the lines. That one blew, so I changed it out again. That one blew!

What am I missing? Did I get two defective wheel cylinders? It definitely is the wheel cylinder leaking (the fluid is on the inside of the drum and not behind where the line comes in). Do you have any recommendations? Is there another part store that has better quality control (I live in Columbus, Ohio).

TIA & Happy Holidays,

--Stacy

ptcruisersteve 06 Dec 2017 02:30 pm

Re: Rear Wheel Cylinder Leaking and more
 
Has the drum been also replaced?

What brand are the new wheel cylinders?

sdcoil 06 Dec 2017 04:08 pm

Re: Rear Wheel Cylinder Leaking and more
 
The drum nor the shoes were not replaced.

It is made by Brakeware https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-...=&model=&year=

My02RedRide 06 Dec 2017 04:48 pm

Re: Rear Wheel Cylinder Leaking and more
 
I would look at the master cylinder. There are 2 separate rear proportioning valves mounted to it. One for each rear line. I would suspect one is bad and allowing full pressure to the wheel cylinder. You replaced the wheel cylinders a couple times and same problem... right?. I had a problem with the right rear locking up and smoking out the drum. I replaced EVERYTHING including the park brake cables, brake hoses, shoes (2 times), hardware kit, drums (3 times right side), wheel cylinders to no avail. Autozone parts too. The last thing in the system was the master cylinder that hadn't been changed. I went to local U-Pull yard and got a master cylinder with the 2 prop valves attached. Installed it and bled the brakes again and NO MORE problems.

CRUZ 06 Dec 2017 05:53 pm

Re: Rear Wheel Cylinder Leaking and more
 
I will write that down in my book. You and some others are so help full
to this forum.
THANKS

chuzz 07 Dec 2017 07:57 am

Re: Rear Wheel Cylinder Leaking and more
 
I don't ever replace just one wheel cylinder. I figure if one is weak then the other can't be far behind. I'd suggest you replace both of them. Being a former manager at Autozone, I don't recommend or buy electrical parts from them, but I rarely had problems with brake parts. Using them or having them returned to the store.

sdcoil 07 Dec 2017 01:12 pm

Re: Rear Wheel Cylinder Leaking and more
 
Wow. Thank you! I've never changed the master cylinder before. Looks like I'm going to have an adventure.

sdcoil 07 Dec 2017 01:21 pm

Re: Rear Wheel Cylinder Leaking and more
 
And, any tips would be greatly appreciated.

My02RedRide 07 Dec 2017 04:40 pm

Re: Rear Wheel Cylinder Leaking and more
 
I would start off even though it might be a PITA is really inspect the bad wheel cylinder again. Perhaps try another supplier NAPA, what ever and different company that remaned the cylinder. Wheel cylinders are a very simple component ( a bore and 2 fitted brake fluid proof primary seals and 2 outer dust seals). Is it leaking very slightly or gushing out soaking the shoes?? You had replaced the same corner a couple times and they too leaked which is VERY unusual.. Brake tube going into the wheel cylinder is good and snugged tight? Saying this as to look closely to make sure no fluid leak at the flared end going into the wheel cyl. which may wick around to the inner part of the brake backing plate onto the shoes.

Ok now to the master. Bone Yard will be the best for the $$$. I think I paid $15 for mine and it had both prop valves. A little clean up and flush with some fresh brake fluid and was good to go. GET THE CORRECT YEAR master as the master rear piston are a bit different length wise. Time to remove: Remove the rubber hose going to the booster, you'll hear a woosh... booster vacuum is now gone (if you don't do this there is a chance the master piston may get sucked into the booster with fluid when removing the master from the booster). Remove the 4 brake tubes from the master a bit tight but use tube wrenches if you have them. Remove the 2 nuts that hold the master to the booster. The master will come right off. Install new used master and bleed the brakes all 4 corners. Right rear 1st, left rear 2nd, right front 3rd and left front last. FIRM pedal is what you want. R and R the master should take no more than a 1/2 hour.

I fought for months with the right rear overheating and warping 3 drums and was at wits end. I had bled mine 4 times and same over heat right rear only. Even my brake engineers were stumped. They never thought about the prop valves on mine HOLDING pressure when I release the brake pedal. Yours might be the opposite instead of limiting the pressure to the rears, yours is going full boat pressure and blowing the seals out. Typical brake balance is 70% front, 30% rear.


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