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Iím back, More issues.

 
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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 28 Dec 2017, 02:08 am
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Join Date: Oct 2017
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Default Iím back, More issues.

I have a 06 PT Cruiser non turbo 2 gen.

So this past month my battery light has been on. I done everything I could do to get this light fixed and itís still on, so Iím driving down the road and the car stalls. So Iím now in a stalled car trying to find a place to pull over. I find a place and put the car in park. I then tried to restart the car and all and I have power but no Hazard lights and the car wonít crank over no sounds or anything after the beeping sounds from the seatbelt, all the lights flashing on then going off which is normal when you crank the key. I noticed I now have a Engine light on, Battery light on, And my PRNDL on the dash disappeared. I tried to have my buddy give me a Jump and we couldnít get the car started. I also noticed while trying to jump the car that my ďSecurity anti theftĒ light is blinking when I try to crank the car. It appears itís acting like the car is still turned off or something. Would anyone have a clue?
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Old 28 Dec 2017, 09:29 am
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 18
Default Re: Iím back, More issues.

I noticed that the ignition fuse blew.

Last edited by Meaty1212; 03 Mar 2018 at 09:58 am.
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Old 05 Jan 2018, 02:26 am
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 18
Default Re: Iím back, More issues.

Any ideas? Seems to have almost 100 views and just myself commenting.
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Old 05 Jan 2018, 08:14 am
Handy_Cruiser's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 10,398
Default Re: Iím back, More issues.

Your problem seems to happen quite a bit on the 2006 PT's. It's a hard one to diagnose so it's likely no one has a good answer since we can't lay our hands on your car.

Likely causes might be the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module), the PCM (Powertrain Control Module - "computer"), or just a wiring harness issue. Forum member, Rckstein, is has changed out his 2006 TIPM, and may be able to tell you things to check.

Beyond this, there are some diagnostic procedures in the service manual. You can download a copy from my Google Drive here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9C...ew?usp=sharing

The problem with the diagnostics for these items is that it often requires equipment that only dealers and some shops have. If working on your PT at home, you are going to be limited as to what you can do. Even trying a salvage PCM and TIPM may not work since both of these need to be mated to the car. It's not clear how necessary the mating is for a 2006 TIPM, but for the PCM, the VIN must be flashed into it or the theft control system (SKIM) will not let it start the car except for a second or two. And then will lock out completely after a few tries.

If me, I would start by assuring there were no trouble codes. I'd preferably use a code reader if I had one. But if not, I'd do the "key dance" method. Then I'd do a thorough inspection of the wiring harness for damage. I would also make sure all grounding straps and leads are in place and in good condition. I would also have the battery tested to assure is holds proper voltage. A low voltage condition can sometime produce similar affects. And of course, I'd assure all battery cable ends were tight and in good condition. I'd assure all fuses were good in the TIPM. And I'd do a hard reset by touching both battery cables together and then waiting about ten minutes or so while the battery is completely disconnected.

Other members may have some additional things to try. However, if none of these simple things does the trick, that will leave you in a position where you will either need shop level diagnostics or you will need to start trading out parts to see if there is a "partial" affect (since the TIPM or PCM will not be properly mated to the car). With the relatively low cost of PT salvage parts compared to shop costs, trading out parts is sometimes the better choice if you are a dumpster diver like me. But if not, it may be time to consider a shop.
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Old 05 Jan 2018, 08:29 am
Senior Cruiser
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: SW PA
Posts: 1,347
Default Re: Iím back, More issues.

I loved my 2006, Had to install a rebuilt TIPM to correct headlight issue, It stalled on me a few times one at a red light and once while backing up,
it momentarily quit one or twice but continued to run.
It eventually died, I tried another TIPM, Instrument cluster, ripped out the remote start. NADA.
Ignition switch NADA..
Took a chance on Ebay and bought Ignition with key fob, SKIM Module and Computer. Paid $125
Installed the items and it ran better than any of the other 4 Cruisers I had. Down side was
I had to rekey the drivers door and rear hatch. I have a 06 PCM that had the security disabled
and the car ran but because my original FOB didn't work I could not shut the alarm off.

$.02
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__________________
Addicted to Mopar You can tell how old I am..
65 Dodge Coronet 6 cyl 2dr Post
66 Ply Satellite with 273 engine swap to 69 340 4spd
70 340 4spd Dart Swinger "Those were the days my friend"
73 Charger SE
Had a few Vetts on the way 69, 85
Several Neons some flips
01 Sebring flip
Cruiser's 01, 220K Gone to a new home
Cruiser 03 133K Gone to a new home
Cruiser 06 110K Project Gone to new Home
Cruiser 05 Ltd 120,809 bought with broken belt Oct2015
May 16 Resurrected to once again roam the streets.

20 Miles South Of Pittsburgh

Last edited by JoeX; 05 Jan 2018 at 08:32 am.
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 05 Jan 2018, 08:32 am
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Darien, IL | Forest Park, IL
Posts: 3,519
Default Re: Iím back, More issues.

A lot of times people like me pop in to read threads that don't have any experience with 2006+ can bus wiring.

What have you done to get the battery light off? "Everything you can" leaves a lot of room to wonder. For me that would have been troubleshooting wiring, having things tested properly, after that I'd try a Cheap aftermarket external regulator and if that worked, id be replacing the computer or selling the car, depending if the car had other issues or damage.

The security light..
I think the car only starts a couple times like that, and it quickly shuts itself off. After a few tries it will cut you off and will not start anymore. I have no experience with this either. I was blessed to have a car with a black key. No security crap and $2 for replacement keys.

Someone should comment soon. It's been light attendance here over the holidays and your thread probably just flew under the radar. I never noticed it and I'm on a lot. A better title may help next time. A clue about the problem in the title usually catches the eye of people that know the solution. "I'm back, more issues" just gets you people like me

,................
Man that's funny... Everyone replied at once. I must be to slow pecking on my phone, there were no replies when I started
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Last edited by rob302; 05 Jan 2018 at 08:35 am.
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 05 Jan 2018, 11:55 am
Senior Cruiser
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: SW PA
Posts: 1,347
Default Re: Iím back, More issues.

Alternator charging is controlled by PCM. Had to change mine, may have been my fault, I was installing the battery terminals, had positive tightened and while I was tightening the negative the wrench slipped out of my grasp and hit the positive. Oh crap did I just blow the PCM, alternator ???? I'll never know since that was going to be the first start up after buying it and changing the motor.
Rebuilder said they are non rebuildable, cannot get the parts. He decided to dig into it and found a connection burned off in a ceramic ???? He was able to reconnect open connection but I got a yard one installed before he gave mine back.

Alternator wires could be scraping the axle in the back of the motor under the exhaust if the are not secured against the engine. If it breaks that wire, it will not start, I believe.

If Security triggers you usually get three tries and it will lock you out with that key. It will run for a second or two then stop.

There was a service bulletin on the second generation security that the redesigned SKIM would lock you out with a static shock.

When my 06 failed to start, I tried what seemed like hundreds of times with the key, every once in a while the starter solenoid would jump into the flywheel (Flexplate) but not long enough to move it. After looing at it for a few months with disgust I bought the trio from Ebay.
Must come from same car..
__________________
Addicted to Mopar You can tell how old I am..
65 Dodge Coronet 6 cyl 2dr Post
66 Ply Satellite with 273 engine swap to 69 340 4spd
70 340 4spd Dart Swinger "Those were the days my friend"
73 Charger SE
Had a few Vetts on the way 69, 85
Several Neons some flips
01 Sebring flip
Cruiser's 01, 220K Gone to a new home
Cruiser 03 133K Gone to a new home
Cruiser 06 110K Project Gone to new Home
Cruiser 05 Ltd 120,809 bought with broken belt Oct2015
May 16 Resurrected to once again roam the streets.

20 Miles South Of Pittsburgh

Last edited by JoeX; 05 Jan 2018 at 12:01 pm.
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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 05 Jan 2018, 12:00 pm
Obsessed Cruiser
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 7,332
Default Re: Iím back, More issues.

In the manual:
"During normal operation, the Theft Alarm / Immobilizer Light will come on for three (3) seconds immediately after the ignition switch is turned on for a bulb check. Afterwords, if the bulb remains on, this indicates a problem with the electronics. If the bulb begins to flash after the bulb check, this indicates that an invalid key has been used to start the vehicle. Both of these conditions will result in the engine being shut off after two (2) seconds of running. Keep in mind that a key which has not been programmed is also considered an invalid key even if it is cut to fit the ignition lock cylinder for that vehicle.


Was a different key used in the ignition?

Was anything done just before the security light started flashing?
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Last edited by ptcruisersteve; 05 Jan 2018 at 12:03 pm.
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 05 Jan 2018, 02:13 pm
Fresh Cruiser
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 18
Default Re: Iím back, More issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Handy_Cruiser View Post
Your problem seems to happen quite a bit on the 2006 PT's. It's a hard one to diagnose so it's likely no one has a good answer since we can't lay our hands on your car.

Likely causes might be the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module), the PCM (Powertrain Control Module - "computer"), or just a wiring harness issue. Forum member, Rckstein, is has changed out his 2006 TIPM, and may be able to tell you things to check.

Beyond this, there are some diagnostic procedures in the service manual. You can download a copy from my Google Drive here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9C...ew?usp=sharing

The problem with the diagnostics for these items is that it often requires equipment that only dealers and some shops have. If working on your PT at home, you are going to be limited as to what you can do. Even trying a salvage PCM and TIPM may not work since both of these need to be mated to the car. It's not clear how necessary the mating is for a 2006 TIPM, but for the PCM, the VIN must be flashed into it or the theft control system (SKIM) will not let it start the car except for a second or two. And then will lock out completely after a few tries.

If me, I would start by assuring there were no trouble codes. I'd preferably use a code reader if I had one. But if not, I'd do the "key dance" method. Then I'd do a thorough inspection of the wiring harness for damage. I would also make sure all grounding straps and leads are in place and in good condition. I would also have the battery tested to assure is holds proper voltage. A low voltage condition can sometime produce similar affects. And of course, I'd assure all battery cable ends were tight and in good condition. I'd assure all fuses were good in the TIPM. And I'd do a hard reset by touching both battery cables together and then waiting about ten minutes or so while the battery is completely disconnected.

Other members may have some additional things to try. However, if none of these simple things does the trick, that will leave you in a position where you will either need shop level diagnostics or you will need to start trading out parts to see if there is a "partial" affect (since the TIPM or PCM will not be properly mated to the car). With the relatively low cost of PT salvage parts compared to shop costs, trading out parts is sometimes the better choice if you are a dumpster diver like me. But if not, it may be time to consider a shop.
Iím now thinking it may be the PCM because I am not getting any Power to the OBD2 port. I checked all the fuses and none are blown or broken. I borrowed a OBD2 scanner and hooked it up to run the codes because I have a engine light and the scanner wouldnít turn on, I called my buddy who lent me the scanner and told him that itís not turning on and he said itís definitely a electric problem and itís probably the Computer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rob302 View Post
A lot of times people like me pop in to read threads that don't have any experience with 2006+ can bus wiring.

What have you done to get the battery light off? "Everything you can" leaves a lot of room to wonder. For me that would have been troubleshooting wiring, having things tested properly, after that I'd try a Cheap aftermarket external regulator and if that worked, id be replacing the computer or selling the car, depending if the car had other issues or damage.

The security light..
I think the car only starts a couple times like that, and it quickly shuts itself off. After a few tries it will cut you off and will not start anymore. I have no experience with this either. I was blessed to have a car with a black key. No security crap and $2 for replacement keys.

Someone should comment soon. It's been light attendance here over the holidays and your thread probably just flew under the radar. I never noticed it and I'm on a lot. A better title may help next time. A clue about the problem in the title usually catches the eye of people that know the solution. "I'm back, more issues" just gets you people like me

,................
Man that's funny... Everyone replied at once. I must be to slow pecking on my phone, there were no replies when I started
I have swapped the battery with a new one. Had the new battery tested. Bought Battery terminals, Had the alternator tested. Changed the terminal wire harness.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ptcruisersteve View Post
In the manual:
"During normal operation, the Theft Alarm / Immobilizer Light will come on for three (3) seconds immediately after the ignition switch is turned on for a bulb check. Afterwords, if the bulb remains on, this indicates a problem with the electronics. If the bulb begins to flash after the bulb check, this indicates that an invalid key has been used to start the vehicle. Both of these conditions will result in the engine being shut off after two (2) seconds of running. Keep in mind that a key which has not been programmed is also considered an invalid key even if it is cut to fit the ignition lock cylinder for that vehicle.


Was a different key used in the ignition?

Was anything done just before the security light started flashing?
I used the key that came with the car, A lot of things happened that night when I stalled. I put the car in N to try to get the started again, Tirned the key and all Gears was lit up. They had a square box around each gear so I knew something was wrong thatís why I pulled over. I tried turning it over a few more times and the gear dash lights disappeared. I then noticed that the security light was blinking but canít recall if the light was blinking when I was doing 55mph and stalled while passing a dude on the road. I tried turning the hazard lights on as soon as I noticed I stalled and I have no hazard lights and everyone that I know seems to think itís the PCM. I found a few websites that will program a PCM for you where you only need to plug and start the car and it should start but I donít want to dish out 200$ if itís not needed.
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Old 05 Jan 2018, 03:07 pm
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 7,332
Default Re: Iím back, More issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Meaty1212 View Post
Iím now thinking it may be the PCM because I am not getting any Power to the OBD2 port. I checked all the fuses and none are blown or broken. I borrowed a OBD2 scanner and hooked it up to run the codes because I have a engine light and the scanner wouldnít turn on, I called my buddy who lent me the scanner and told him that itís not turning on and he said itís definitely a electric problem and itís probably the Computer.


I have swapped the battery with a new one. Had the new battery tested. Bought Battery terminals, Had the alternator tested. Changed the terminal wire harness.



I used the key that came with the car, A lot of things happened that night when I stalled. I put the car in N to try to get the started again, Tirned the key and all Gears was lit up. They had a square box around each gear so I knew something was wrong thatís why I pulled over. I tried turning it over a few more times and the gear dash lights disappeared. I then noticed that the security light was blinking but canít recall if the light was blinking when I was doing 55mph and stalled while passing a dude on the road. I tried turning the hazard lights on as soon as I noticed I stalled and I have no hazard lights and everyone that I know seems to think itís the PCM. I found a few websites that will program a PCM for you where you only need to plug and start the car and it should start but I donít want to dish out 200$ if itís not needed.
First thing I would do is check all fuses especially the ones going to the PCM. If your body module or your transmission range sensor is not working properly it might be causing your issues. Check to see why your hazard lights are not working. All of these items needs to be checked out before replacing the PCM.
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