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Decklid/liftgate release problem

 
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 16 Apr 2018, 01:30 pm
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Default Re: Decklid/liftgate release problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by ptcruisersteve View Post
Attaching an electrical schematic for 2005 PT rear hatch that might help you.



Thanks PTSteve. The wiring diagram I have however is for 2009. They are drastically different.

I like the idea of replacing the tailgate motor with a manual handle but I have no clue how to do that and I dont know if that will solve my voltage drain problem.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 17 Apr 2018, 04:14 am
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Default Re: Decklid/liftgate release problem

Mecho; I would not recommend using a brass shim as a ground-out switch. I took out the entire switch assy. in hopes of repairing the original switch. Not possible. So I did my brass shim method and reinstalled the assy. Removal of the old switch is a real pain. Rickstein's method [or similar] is easier.

To test your switch, unplug the tan wire going to your switch. Using a piece of scrap wire or jumper wire, ground out one end and touch the other end to the tan wire. The unlock motor should make a noise for a second or two every time you do this.

The voltage at the tan wire might only be able to be read with a digital meter.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 17 Apr 2018, 07:37 am
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Default Re: Decklid/liftgate release problem

it might be a better idea to just unplug the switch and test the pin side of the connector w/ a flat blade screwdriver bridging the pins... you can then test the switch for no continuity/continuity. however, in our turtle, the switch rung out perfectly fine (leads and switch tested from the plastic terminal board, then at the wires before the connector, then finally at the female working end of conn.) all three tests rung out that the switch was bridging the gap, then breaking the gap (tone on my tester).

however, id plug it in and the lock plunger would work once automatically then the button wouldn't work... and we had the good ol problem of the possessed hatch back locks (and other locks...) I verified by unplugging just the switch and the problem went away! looks like the switch can test fine but once its plugged in it fails. don't ask me, I just work here.

thanks for the GREAT idea rickstien (I think) for the button idea! the connector was fine, for I snipped it off the oem switch and used it on the new weather proof one. it even came with handy little screw terminals! all lock issues disappeared and didn't have to pull the gad damn dash...
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 17 Apr 2018, 07:43 am
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Default Re: Decklid/liftgate release problem

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Originally Posted by rckstein View Post
This is the kind of switch I installed when the touchpad switch on my PT went out:





Chrysler should have installed this kind of switch from the start, something that can be easily replaced without having to replace the entire handle/wing assembly.
I swear the same switch was at auto zone! ill take a pic of ours- it was a bit wide to fit there so it was installed on the vertical plane. yeah I had to use a 1/2" carbide to make room on that piece of steel but what ever... $7 at A.Z. and the particular idiot at napa couldn't quite find me something smaller than a $80 ignition switch.. the wife thanks you, i'd have left it inplugged.....

Last edited by rambojoe; 17 Apr 2018 at 07:45 am.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 17 Apr 2018, 07:45 am
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Default Re: Decklid/liftgate release problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by rambojoe View Post
it might be a better idea to just unplug the switch and test the pin side of the connector w/ a flat blade screwdriver bridging the pins... you can then test the switch for no continuity/continuity. however, in our turtle, the switch rung out perfectly fine (leads and switch tested from the plastic terminal board, then at the wires before the connector, then finally at the female working end of conn.) all three tests rung out that the switch was bridging the gap, then breaking the gap (tone on my tester).

however, id plug it in and the lock plunger would work once automatically then the button wouldn't work... and we had the good ol problem of the possessed hatch back locks (and other locks...) I verified by unplugging just the switch and the problem went away! looks like the switch can test fine but once its plugged in it fails. don't ask me, I just work here.

thanks for the GREAT idea rickstien (I think) for the button idea! the connector was fine, for I snipped it off the oem switch and used it on the new weather proof one. it even came with handy little screw terminals! all lock issues disappeared and didn't have to pull the gad damn dash...
I can't take credit for it as I found the button fix elsewhere on this forum.

But it does effectively solve the issue, and is much less expensive than replacing the entire handle assembly, with another touch pad switch which will eventually fail.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 17 Apr 2018, 07:52 am
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Default Re: Decklid/liftgate release problem

and easier than the friggin remote module! tip for all though, systematically verify that the possessed problem gets fixed by unplugging the switch... hard to believe a simple switch caused all our problems but...I have better things to do than have to pull over every 100 yards and shut that g****** hatch...
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 17 Apr 2018, 06:45 pm
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Default Re: Decklid/liftgate release problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by rambojoe View Post
I swear the same switch was at auto zone! ill take a pic of ours- it was a bit wide to fit there so it was installed on the vertical plane. yeah I had to use a 1/2" carbide to make room on that piece of steel but what ever... $7 at A.Z. and the particular idiot at napa couldn't quite find me something smaller than a $80 ignition switch.. the wife thanks you, i'd have left it inplugged.....
I believe this is the Dorman switch that I used and I believe that I bought it at AutoZone, I think it was about $6:

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-73336-84822.aspx

I used a step drill bit mounted in a right-angle drill for access. Even though the switch is waterproof, and probably a little overkill on my part, I added an O-ring to the outside of the switch before installing through the hole, then a fiber washer on the inside for extra sealing.






And the switch is slightly off-center due to the stud and nut holding the winged emblem. But that actually works great because being right-handed, when I put my hand into the cup holder to press the button, your middle finger being longer lands directly on the switch every time, works great!
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 18 Apr 2018, 02:47 am
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Default Re: Decklid/liftgate release problem

Note that the 2006 and probably later models have a single tan wire going to the switch. Rick's older model shows a 2 wire harness. They accomplish the same thing.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 20 Apr 2018, 07:26 am
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Default Re: Decklid/liftgate release problem

Thanks again for the replies.

I will definitely think about switching out electric switch for a manual one.

I got time this Sunday, my day off so I'll let you guys know how it goes.

Still got to check the wires again like you guys mentioned.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 20 Apr 2018, 08:41 pm
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Default Re: Decklid/liftgate release problem

Before I test wires again and figure out a solution for a manual gate, would anyone recommend just unplugging all the connectors at the tailgate to keep voltage concentrated at the front?

Would this work as a temporary solution? I just need my moms car to run for the time being.
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