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DOHC timing belt-2001 2.4L

 
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Old 15 May 2018, 07:26 pm
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Default DOHC timing belt-2001 2.4L

Having trouble getting the cams and crank timed. The intake cam spring is so heavy the cam won't stay in the correct position. The few times the cams and crank were in proper position, when I install the belt the exhaust cam is always about 4 teeth out yet I am sure it isn't jumping as I pull the belt over the tensioner pulley...any suggestions?
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Old 15 May 2018, 08:52 pm
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Default Re: DOHC timing belt-2001 2.4L

Get rubber door stop (the one that looks like a wedge) to help the cams stay where you set them wedge between the cams in the middle should hold them in place while you install the belt
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Old 15 May 2018, 09:41 pm
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Default Re: DOHC timing belt-2001 2.4L

With the engine in the car it can be difficult. Another thing that can help is to use spring clamps to hold the timing belt to the cam sprockets. If the cams move they'll both move together. I found that I could keep the cams in place but the crank would always go off make when putting the belt over the tensioner.

Once I knew how many teeth the crank would move clockwise I turned the crank counter clockwise the same number of teeth and it would be in time.

It's been awhile so forgive me if my memory is failing a bit.

IMO the timing belt system on the Cruiser could have been designed a bit better. If the belt would be say another 1/8th inch longer the belt would slide on with no issues. To get the proper tension the tensioner might may also need to be modified a bit.
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Old 16 May 2018, 11:35 am
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Default Re: DOHC timing belt-2001 2.4L

Thanks so much for the tips, I will try them both!
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Old 20 May 2018, 08:12 am
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Default Re: DOHC timing belt-2001 2.4L

A couple of tips:
Mark the belt, camshaft pulleys and crankshaft pulley with a magic marker. When the belt is fully installed, if all the factory marks line up you are good to go. If you are off by a tooth, you can remark the belt so you don't have to blindly start over.

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IMO the timing belt system on the Cruiser could have been designed a bit better. If the belt would be say another 1/8th inch longer the belt would slide on with no issues. To get the proper tension the tensioner might may also need to be modified a bit.
Slipping the belt over the tensioner is a real pain. I lost one belt just trying to do that. The second belt was just barely more supple and it slipped over the tensioner but when I filled the system with water, the pump leaked like a rain forest so I had to remove the belt again to find I broke the water pump gasket while installing it So the belt had to be reinstalled again.

Fortunately, the marks made lining everything back up easier.

I found a trick to getting the belt over the tensioner. Line up all the marks on the belt, crankshaft pulley and sprockets and use the clamps to hold the belt in position on the camshaft sprockets. With the tensioner in the "untensioned" position, loosen the pulley bolt until it comes off. Now there is lots of slack in the belt. You can then slip the belt over the pulley and put the pulley bolt back on (make sure it doesn't get cross-threaded). Then adjust the tensioner so that the spring wire is lined up inside the notch. Then do your 2 full revolutions on the crankshaft to ensure the 3 pulley marks line up again.
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