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Heater core/radiator swap-persistant probs

 
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Old 10 Jun 2018, 09:55 am
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Default Heater core/radiator swap-persistant probs

Heater stopped working. One hose to the core was hot, the other cool. Also, I found a small leak in the radiator that would only leak when going uphill.

Changed out radiator. Flushed and reverse flushed the heater core. I had to re-attach the dang fan connectors three times to get it working. I've bled the system with the bleeder valve. Left it sitting nose up overnight with the rad cap off and topped it off.

Now, neither hose going to the core is getting warm, $@&%#! Wondering if I missed something?

2010 Classic.
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Old 10 Jun 2018, 12:05 pm
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Default Re: Heater core/radiator swap-persistant probs

Sounds like the heater core is air bound.

I had a Neon that wouldn't take coolant on refilling. I ended up having to jack the right front side of the car up to raise the coolant cap so it was the highest point. Then it filled with coolant properly.

Maybe jacking the front end up could shift the air bubble?
(edit: looks like you tried that)

Or loosen the highest heater hose to bleed the air bubble.

Or, with the engine running, give the engine a few good revs to shift the bubble.

Just some thoughts. It's what I'd try.
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Old 11 Jun 2018, 10:28 am
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Default Re: Heater core/radiator swap-persistant probs

This sounds more complicated that it is to do it, but if you attach 5/8" hose couplers to the the heather hoses where it attaches to the engine (a couple $ each at Home Depot), then attach clear 5/8" vinyl hoses to the couplers, you can use a flush fit garden hose nozzle to run water through the heater core and drive all the air out of it. You can run it both ways to ensure everything is flushed out.

Then you put a funnel on the vinyl hose and start pouring in the 50/50 mix of antifreeze and watch the coolant displace the water in the heater core. When you see coolant coming out of the exit hose, you know you got rid of all the water and have the proper mixture in the heater core.

You might want to plug the 2 tubes on the engine to keep coolant from draining out while you do the flush/purge.
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Old 11 Jun 2018, 07:50 pm
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Default Re: Heater core/radiator swap-persistant probs

rsrocket1, I've already got the clear tubing, and flushed it out once. I was replacing the radiator, so I didn't ensure that the heater core was full of 50/50. That's probably where I went wrong. I'll take your advice and ensure it's filled well before re-attaching. We'll see how that goes.

Thanks.
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Old 13 Jun 2018, 10:02 am
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Default Re: Heater core/radiator swap-persistant probs

Holy crap. Now the fan won't work. Direct wired to check the fan and it runs, both high and low. Checked both relays with a multimeter, which zeroed out as it should. Checked the fuse in #15 (a 50 block type) and it looked good. So it MUST be the wiring/connectors, right? I brushed the connectors and used a super-tiny amount of dielectric grease, but it didn't help. I guess the next step is to bypass connectors and solder? Anybody recommend anything else?

I tried to find a wiring harness (?) from the relays to the fan connector to purchase, but no luck there. Anybody have a part number for that?

It's a 2010 with the relays attached to the fan housing.
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Old 13 Jun 2018, 10:42 am
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Default Re: Heater core/radiator swap-persistant probs

What did the connectors look like, any evidence of arcing?

The ground for the fan is included in the ground bundle on the fender behind the battery. Is there any corrosion on those?

What part of the country do you live in?

Some have reported actual breaks in the wires, under the wrapping. Check all the fan wires for continuity.
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Last edited by rckstein; 13 Jun 2018 at 10:44 am.
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Old 13 Jun 2018, 11:14 am
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Default Re: Heater core/radiator swap-persistant probs

Quote:
Originally Posted by McKinziesDad View Post
Holy crap. Now the fan won't work. Direct wired to check the fan and it runs, both high and low. Checked both relays with a multimeter, which zeroed out as it should. Checked the fuse in #15 (a 50 block type) and it looked good. So it MUST be the wiring/connectors, right? I brushed the connectors and used a super-tiny amount of dielectric grease, but it didn't help. I guess the next step is to bypass connectors and solder? Anybody recommend anything else?



I tried to find a wiring harness (?) from the relays to the fan connector to purchase, but no luck there. Anybody have a part number for that?

It's a 2010 with the relays attached to the fan housing.
Is your engine light on? If so what diagnostic trouble codes is it triggering?
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Old 13 Jun 2018, 01:01 pm
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Default Re: Heater core/radiator swap-persistant probs

The 3 pin connector on my fan was loose and caused an overheat on my son's PT which started all my overheating problems (still working on it). The connector wasn't seating itself properly so I tie wrapped it which worked for a little while until it got loose again. I finally cut the connector off and soldered the 3 wires together and used heatshrink over the splices. No problems with the fan ever since.

Many of the new fan assemblies don't even have the 3 wire intermediate connection, just a 4 pin connector to the relays all hardwired to the 3 fan wires.
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Old 16 Jun 2018, 11:08 am
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Default Re: Heater core/radiator swap-persistant probs

OK, I bypassed the 3-pin connector and the radiator fan is working as it should!
I've flushed the heater core (again) and made sure it was as full of HOAT 50/50 as possible.

I've ordered a spill-free radiator filling funnel system (should arrive tomorrow) to ensure I've gotten all the air out. Should arrive tomorrow.

Let's hope that's it!
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Old 17 Jun 2018, 02:40 pm
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Default Re: Heater core/radiator swap-persistant probs

OK, I burped the system with a no-spill funnel. Got a little air out.
Result:
Had some cool air with a A/C and some warm air with the heater.
Hooray, right?

Wrong. Next time I drove it – no A/C no heat.

Can anyone tell me about the path the air takes? When I adjust the temperature knob, I can hear the air change. I went ahead and removed the console and the cord appears to be doing it's job when you turn the knob from hot to cold and back.

Could it be something within the path of the air? Flap broken or whatnot. Back before the radiator and fan issues, when it was still working some, you'd hear a loud thunk when changing the temp at times.

EDIT: One more thing. The compressor cycles on and off continually when the A/C is on. I used a pressure guage to see if the system was low. The compressor kicks on when the guage reads 25psi, then it builds until it hits about 50psi, then the compressor switches off and the psi drops. Once it gets down to 25psi, it kicks on again. I have no idea what this means. HOWEVER, the 'Thunk" I was hearing when the A/C would work was NOT the compressor.

Any ideas?!

RECAP: 2010 Classic 2.4L. New radiator (had a tiny leak), thermostat, HOAT 50/50 with distilled water, flushed the heater core and tried to make sure it was full of fluid before re-attaching. The in and out tubes for the core are getting hot. Bypassed 3-pring connecter on fan, fan is running as it should with both hi and lo speeds. Bled coolant system with bleed valve, and then again with a no-spill funnel. Still no A/C or heat. Air blows out of vents as if neither AC or heat is on.
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Last edited by McKinziesDad; 17 Jun 2018 at 03:03 pm.
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