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Flashing Security light steady battery,airbag in run position pre start

 
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Old 27 Aug 2018, 10:50 pm
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Driveway & Highway
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Default Flashing Security light steady battery,airbag in run position pre start

Ok at a total loss here ...

On mornings (2006 PT non turbo) when key is turned to “run” (before starting) the sound of the fuel pump is heard and the Air bag, battery and security lights briefly light up then go out. Car starts (start position) and operates normally.

Once car is driven and parked the next time it is started (which can be hours) when the above sequence is repeated this time the fuel pump does not kick on and the security light will flash and both the air bag and battery light are on steady in run mode (pre start) .. I can go ahead and still start the car (albeit not as solidly) but does start and the engine runs fine. However, now the car runs in limp mode !!

After stopping and trying to get car to go to run mode where I hear the fuel pump run and the Air bag, battery and flashing security light(s) go out (pre start ) like they should. Only then can I start and take off and not be in limp mode.

Also, code readers cannot communicated with the PT when it is in the run state with the Air bag, battery and flashing security light on.

Note the Security light is never in solid state and I have pulled all connectors off PCM cleaned them with contact spray (both male and female pins) and have done the same with all the connectors on the TIPM as well.

Car will behave just fine in the morning and >90% of the time will act up when restarted later in day.

Also, is the SKIM a simple go .. no go with the rest of the electronics or can it be half working at times? I have also tried to heat and cool components to create or resolve the situation trying to rule out temperature related circuit board issues in PCM and TIPM ... No Codes ... Just cannot pin this one down..

I though Chrysler got rid of the AMC Gemlin but I’m starting to believe the critter is alive and well in this “leaning Pacer” cousin

Thoughts ?? Thanks in advance !
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Old 27 Aug 2018, 11:33 pm
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
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Default Re: Flashing Security light steady battery,airbag in run position pre start

I would suggest still checking to see if it is heat related. After driving it to each place where you are going to turn off the engine, immediately open the hood and keep it open until the engine cools off. See if that helps diagnose the problem a little. Sometimes an component will take time to have heat open up a bad solder joint or a crack in an electronic board. When the hood is closed and you stop and shut off the engine the heat from the CAT will rise making the top area of the engine compartment hotter and continue to heat the PCM, etc.
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Last edited by ptcruisersteve; 27 Aug 2018 at 11:35 pm.
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Old 28 Aug 2018, 09:56 pm
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Driveway & Highway
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Default Re: Flashing Security light steady battery,airbag in run position pre start

Steve thanks for the reply !

It was nice and hot outside today so I tried the heat again. After verifying that the car was operating properly like it does in the morning I put a high watt light under the TIPM for a couple hours to see if I could get it to act up. Could not create issue by heating up the TIPM. So I pulled the PCM out and let the Sun do its thing for an hour until it was hot to the touch as if it were in the car and at full operating temp. At first no luck getting the car to act up with a very warm PCM. Then gave it another half hour with other side exposed to the sun.

This time success creating the problem ! ... Then put PCM in refrigerator to cool back down (TIPM) still under heat and when reinstalled the car behaved normally again with the cooled PCM.

When I attempted to heat before I did not give it a good heat soak and I think the goop inside the PCM acts to delay both heating and cooling of the PCM which explains the morning good behavior and the afternoon not wanting to behave especially when the car remains in the heat during the day after being driven.

So the good news is that it looks like the PCM.
The bad news is that it looks like the PCM

I assume that even for the most daring weekend warrior that is not afraid to tackle locating and repairing a cold solder .... that getting past the PCM goop inside is not worth trying to get to the soldered side of the PCM board...? Or am I missing something?

Of course if it is a circuit board component that drifts out of spec with temp then that will be outside my capabilities to identify.

So that leaves sourcing a plug n play PCM rebuilder.
Any no nonsense rebuilders that most can agree deliver consistent results?

Again thanks for the support

Cheers!
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Old 29 Aug 2018, 11:51 am
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 7,475
Default Re: Flashing Security light steady battery,airbag in run position pre start

Quote:
Originally Posted by betterred View Post
Steve thanks for the reply !

It was nice and hot outside today so I tried the heat again. After verifying that the car was operating properly like it does in the morning I put a high watt light under the TIPM for a couple hours to see if I could get it to act up. Could not create issue by heating up the TIPM. So I pulled the PCM out and let the Sun do its thing for an hour until it was hot to the touch as if it were in the car and at full operating temp. At first no luck getting the car to act up with a very warm PCM. Then gave it another half hour with other side exposed to the sun.

This time success creating the problem ! ... Then put PCM in refrigerator to cool back down (TIPM) still under heat and when reinstalled the car behaved normally again with the cooled PCM.

When I attempted to heat before I did not give it a good heat soak and I think the goop inside the PCM acts to delay both heating and cooling of the PCM which explains the morning good behavior and the afternoon not wanting to behave especially when the car remains in the heat during the day after being driven.

So the good news is that it looks like the PCM.
The bad news is that it looks like the PCM

I assume that even for the most daring weekend warrior that is not afraid to tackle locating and repairing a cold solder .... that getting past the PCM goop inside is not worth trying to get to the soldered side of the PCM board...? Or am I missing something?

Of course if it is a circuit board component that drifts out of spec with temp then that will be outside my capabilities to identify.

So that leaves sourcing a plug n play PCM rebuilder.
Any no nonsense rebuilders that most can agree deliver consistent results?

Again thanks for the support

Cheers!
Glad you were able to diagnose the problem.
Which side of the PCM helped diagnose the problem?
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