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Well, before we go out an start putting pumps in (not saying no one didn't have a bad pump), check to make sure your rack doesn't have an internal leak. I have done quit a few. The easiest way is to take a pick and poke a hole in one of the ribs of the inner tie rod boot. If there is fluid, it needs a rack. This would cause the P/S fluid to become low and burn a pump out, or just go low and make a pump whine because there is no fluid. The boots are pretty strong and kinda seal themselves up but you can put a little silicone where you poked the holes (check both sides). If you have to replace the rack, I wouldn't worry about sealing it up.
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![]() \'04 GT 5-speed, Brand X, Air Force One Intake, Custom Flowmaster Exhaust (retired), SRT-4 exhaust no resonators, AGP Wastegate, Crusher Kit, Former Chrome Package, Mopar BOV, Custom Sub Box, Mopar Pillar Gauges, Hood Scoop, MBC, Stage 1, Mopar Stage 1 Springs, Hurst STS Future Plans: Custom Intercooler Sprayer, 2-tone Paint Job \"Hondas are like cigarettes, everyone cool smokes them\" |
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Thanks everyone for the reply's! Matt -Oh, my car has 54,700 miles on it now
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2006 PT Cruiser Convertible GT 1987 Porsche 944 Turbo Past Mopars: 2006 PT Cruiser Convertible 2001 PT Cruiser Limited Edition 1993 Plymouth Sundance/Duster 3.0 litre |
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I had to have my rack and pinion unit replaced under warranty for the infamous rubbing noise. My copy of the invoice didn't list any prices or other relevant information so I don't know what it cost but it did necessitate a front end alignment which I then had to have redone because they set it with toe-out.
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2003 Almond GT AutoStick, body colored rear splash guards and hood struts, chrome gear shift, AC & vent knobs, billet steering wheel spokes and pedals, AMX1397 Turbo-Intake Pipe. |
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It's ~$400 to get it fixed. I got "hosed" by the dealer. This is a known defect just like the raw bumpers. Hey Chrysler: I'm taking notes...
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how can I tell if my power steering pump is bad? My steering is very tight and I need to use both hands, putting all my weight into the wheel, to make the wheel turn a very little ammount.
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Its been a while now since i've been back on the forum. Classes started getting busy. I have my last final for the quarter on Friday, so I have some time finally. Well - Here's the issue, my car does the pump whine noise off and on now. It seems the colder it is outside the worse it gets, or if I take a turn fast, it seems to make the noise. Does this info change what could be wrong? I didnt end up getting to change anything over Christmas, as it was crazy. I havent put more then 400 miles on the car since then, and it has started to quiet down some. But I am still worried about it a little. I want to get this situation fixed soon. Next week is spring break, so as long as I can get the parts, I can get it done. Again, like I said, in the first post, the PS fluid is just fine, so I dont think its leaking any. Would a bad rack still make this noise, even if its got fluid in it? Or is it possible the rack isnt getting any fluid? Just up for things to check out over the next week. Its a little warmer now then over christmas too, and I will be in the garage a lot anyways parting out another car. Anymore help/suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks again, Matt
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2006 PT Cruiser Convertible GT 1987 Porsche 944 Turbo Past Mopars: 2006 PT Cruiser Convertible 2001 PT Cruiser Limited Edition 1993 Plymouth Sundance/Duster 3.0 litre |
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I would say your pump is totally shot. That happend to me with my Plymouth Duster I had before the PT. When it takes all your energy to turn the wheel, that means your PS isnt working. Matt
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2006 PT Cruiser Convertible GT 1987 Porsche 944 Turbo Past Mopars: 2006 PT Cruiser Convertible 2001 PT Cruiser Limited Edition 1993 Plymouth Sundance/Duster 3.0 litre |
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![]() When my pump went it was right in the act of making a turn. Took all my strength to complete the turn without hitting the center island. Had to struggle to get it back in the garage.
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