New Brakes...

[SteelBlueGT]

My Game Plan for my GT:
BRAKE LINES RUSSELL From ecutuning.com STAINLESS STEEL 694010 $139.00 4 LINES.
ROTORS, FRONT & REAR From RACECONCEPTS SLOTTED, DRILLED ZINC WASHED, $159.00 Complete Set 4 Rotors
PADS, FRONT EBC GREEN From AUTOPARTSWAREHOUSE DP21357 $58.00 Set
PADS, REAR EBC GREEN From THE TIRE RACK DP21066 $47.00 Set
Estimated Cost $403.
Is this overkill or just a very good complete brake job for spirited street driving?

[quicksilverdon]

quote:Originally posted by SteelBlueGT

My Game Plan for my GT:
Is this overkill or just a very good complete brake job for spirited street driving?

MY OPINION
Money spent for quality on brakes and tires can never be overkill. BUT you have a lot of labor ahead of you replacing the brake lines.
D'oh - edited - realized you're just replacing the rubber at the caliper, right?[:0]

[matt87951]

quote:Originally posted by quicksilverdon

MY OPINION
Money spent for quality on brakes and tires can never be overkill. BUT you have a lot of labor ahead of you replacing the brake lines.
D'oh - edited - realized you're just replacing the rubber at the caliper, right?[:0]

I totally agree that brakes are the most important part of the car. Do brake upgrades before HP upgrades. Becuase afterall, what good is the extra power, if you cant get the car stopped? My only drawback on getting the brakes is the price - good rotors/pads will cost just about the same as the ones on my 944 turbo. But, I guess the car is surely worth it.

Yea - I would assume he is replacing the ~12inch section of rubber brake line that attaches between the caliper, and the hard brake lines. How hard would it be to bleed out all 4 corners after switching the lines? I worked on my buddies brakes, and needed to replace a bad caliper, and bleeding that one side was real easy - but how tough is it to do all 4? Or do you only bleed one at a time?

Matt

[Cal Cruzer]

[quote How hard would it be to bleed out all 4 corners after switching the lines? I worked on my buddies brakes, and needed to replace a bad caliper, and bleeding that one side was real easy - but how tough is it to do all 4? Or do you only bleed one at a time?

Matt

[/quote]
Start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder (pass side rear). replace that one first then bleed it making sure that the fluid level in the reservior does not run low and allows air to get in the line. Then the other rear, then pass side front, then driver front. Brake lines are kind of a messy job but if you work quickly you don't really loose too much fluid. Keep checking the reservoir though. If you get air into the lines, you start over.

[Grouch]

quote:Originally posted by gonzomania

I'm going with powerslot rotors and Raysebestos ceramic pads when my time comes

Ive had this setup for along time and love it.

[Ctown]

quote:Originally posted by quicksilverdon

MY OPINION.
Forget the drilled, slotted malarky unless you're autocrossing.
Go with the top-line NAPA rotors and ceramic pads (they have several choices of pads & rotors).
I've put nearly 84,000 miles on my PT and have never felt the brakes fade from heat (which is why you'd want drilled & slotted).
I have 4-wheel disk on my PT, and got the best of everything for all 4 corners (rotors & pads) for just under $300. The brakes are fantastic.
[?]

I agree with you 50/50 the the drilled, slotted roter are just nonsense. I have these on before and it feels just like any rotors without. They perform just the same even in the wet or heated days. I even tried ceramic pads before and they do feel the same. As for as I knwo if you want to upgrade your brake go with bigger Caliper and put in a bigger master cylinder. Thats the only way theres no cheap way around it

[kromans]

Recently upgraded my brakes w/ Powerslots-Cyro, Russell Steel brake lines and Satisfied carbon ceramic and ceramic pads.She really stops now and I can go much farther into a corner before braking than before. On a recent run to the shore, I had to slow rapidly from 85mph to 60mph. Braking as I had in the past, I ended up quit short of my mark. The brakes are really firm and sure.Alittle costly, but well worth the added safety.
03PTGT: S1,K&N FIPK, BTG Cat-back/cat-sync,Koni's, Eibach F&R sways,Eibach pro-kit springs,Conti extreme contact 215/50/17.NO EMBLEMS