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im lookin for a bov..ive checked out mopars bov but i was kinda wanting a aftermarket..does anybody have any suggestions on what to get and if you have any part #s on the aftermarket bov please let me know. also how is the mopar bov ?
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From everything I've read, the HKS SSQ BOV is the best one to use. But it does require the replacement of the uppercharge pipe with a hard pipe with the flange hole cut into it and you will need the block off plate for the original BOV location. You can get Adam's VAK or AMX's pipe. Check ptcruise.com in the vendors section for both of these guys. Both are very nice and can be had with the proper hole placement for the BOV. If you don't want to change the UCP, Bommba and Forge Motorsports both make one that goes in the stock location. I run the Forge because you can change the spring in it to run more boost without it opening. I think I would have gone with the HKS, but I had already installed the Forge when I got my UCP. The mopar unit isn't really a true BOV. It is just a plate with holes in it that works with the stock surge valve so the blow off goes into the air instead of going back into the intake.
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05\' GT Convertible in Metallic Midnight Blue Mods... http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/808143 Please see Forum Guidelines regarding signature image sizing. |
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hey topless thanks for the info.. you wouldnt happen to have a part# handy would ya on the hks or forge bov would ya...i look at your pic at car domain dou you have a boost gauge? and what is that chrome pipe next to your intake? how is the chip cuz i was lookin at one of them also for about 279$ ...thanks brian
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03 gt painted steel blue, goldline coil springs custom exhaust done by yours truly..k&n typhoon intake..tinted windows member of ptcruiserclub.org..adjusted wasetgate. E&G classic billet grille. 600w alpine amp,2-twelve alpine typeR subs,alpine headunit.xeon headlights,fog lights.apc carbon fiber taillights. royal purple oil. k&n oil filter,mopar bov conversion,BTG strut tower brace.... |
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just my 2 cents worth but if you are not going to increase the boost past stage 1 levels then the MOPAR BOV will be just fine. The BOV's on the aftermarket allow higher boost levels to be held and reduce spikes caused by bad or weak springs. If you are going to higher boost levels you will need a boost gauge and probably an EGT and fuel air ratio gauge too. I think stage 1 is a better value then any after market chip I have seen so far.
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06 GT Auto, Cool Vanila Exterior, Presto Change O 3bl, Cargo Mat and Net, Billet Oil Cap, Yoko Avid 4Vs Tires, 03 GT Wheels, 4 Chrome Door Handle Screw Covers, MOPAR Mud Flaps, H&R Rear Sway Bar, Freedom Strut Tower Bar, Rear Door Sill Covers. |
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After having the Mopar BOV for just under a year, I switched to the HKS this last weekend...love it to death. I was really only into it for the sound, but for the added extras it contains I thought it was a good value. Plus I got it at a great price. There's no particular number for it anywhere, just shop ebay they're all pretty much a universal fit. Expect to pay right around 200 for the HKS unit, plus another 30 for the flange you need to weld it on to the UCP. Adams VAK kit works superbly and as stated before he can have the flange welded on for you.
Only recently have I seen the forge BOV pop up on ebay, typically going for about 110 bucks. It fits in the stock location on the PT Turbos and also the SRT 4s. If you're not going to run great amounts of boost I'd recommend this one. I'm spiking at 19.5 lbs boost and dropping to 15-16 at redline. The mopar unit can and will hold that kind of boost, I know from first hand experience. You can have your hands on one of these for about 60 bucks. In my opinion as well as others on here, Stage 1 will do plenty more than any chip on the market. It replaces the PCM and does all sorts of stuff that a chip cannot do. At 279 bucks for the chip, save yourself another 50 and get S1, you'll never look back at that chip again. |
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\'05 Stone White SRT4 \'04 Graphite PT Automatic |
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Doesn't seem to be pulled with the W/I though. To me, a map clamp sounds like fooling the computer and I've never been big on that kinda stuff. I can definitely tell when the timing is being pulled, and out at the track when I run the alky injection there's no timing being pulled.
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