![]() |
|
|
|||||||
| Register | FAQ | Members List | Social Groups | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
| Site Home | Forum Home | Photo Gallery | PT Events | PT Videos | Car Videos | Parts Search |
|
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|||
|
Dream Cruiser coming home tomorrow.....bottom line, what is the 'cleanest' way to increase boost on a PT Turbo?
I want to avoid big honkin' LCD in-car gauges/computers I need reliable, electronically controlled SAFE boost Exactly what is need for this type of setup? CraigO Used to racing Porsche 911s where a boost increase is accomplished via a 1 bar boost SPRING ![]() Thanks! |
|
|||
|
probably and HKS or Apex'i Electronic boost control setup. They have the gauge readouts built into the display, and are relatively small. You could even mount it in your glove box if you want...
__________________
My Cruiser is slow. I love the law. |
|
|||
|
Yeah, you could swap the spring in the wastegate, if you knew exactly what the spring rate is now, the rate on the one you want to swap, and the spring rate/boost ratio. The way I see it is it would only affect at what point the wastegate opens, otherwise it would still be completly controlled by the ecu. Of course there isnt anybody that I know of that has the information needed to complete this mod, guess that just means somebody has to do a little r&d.
__________________
90 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD - 300 Hp -K&N, 16g turbo, JE pistons, 3in Turbo back exhaust, mild port&polish 03 PT Cruiser GT - 215 Hp-Airbox and Intake pipe silencers removed |
|
|||
|
I have the A'PEXi Installed in my GT and I am in love with this toy!!!
I installed it in the glove compartment with the Geddy turbo timer making this setup a completely sleeper car. You still need to install a Boost gauge somewhere in the car to monitor the settings. Although the controller monitors the boost, it is in KG/CM2, and the controller manual specifically tells you that you need to calibrate it. Also it operates with "duty cycles" and you have to increase it or decrease it to reach the desired boost without spikes, over boost or slow increase. Remember, This is a precision instrument and if you take your time to understand all the parameters and write down all the changes you did, it will work incredible! Also, I installed it completely bypassing the factory solenoid system, but left it on the car for when I need to take it back to stock configuration. I will try to post a picture of my setup. Ian
__________________
|
|
|||
|
Go to my site and read the spring mod i did. It adds tention to the WG which will allow you to boost a little more. As for a great boost controller, the greddy profect e01 reads in psi, kbar, pascal etc. It has a larger screen though. If you dont like hte large screen, i would go with the blitz unit. You can see a pic of it on my site. They are mounted on an SRT-4 t hough.
The e01 has tons of features on it.
__________________
![]() E.D. 3\" Turbo Back, , HKS SSBOV, GReddy-e01 Boost controller, Greddy E-manage fuel management, Blitz Turbo Timer, JE pistons, Ported Head, E.D. Large Frontmount Intercooler, E.D. Tubular manifold with t3/t4 (prototype), IPP coilovers, Limited Slip. |
|
|||
|
Like I have said before,
All the boost controllers made by respectable companies (greddy, Blitz, A'PEXi, HKS) will do the job properly, it will all end with your personal choice. They all do the same thing. I realy loved the Greddy e01 controller. When I was looking for a controller was a Profec-B, and it was hector's persuation that got me in to the computer controlled world. I checked them all but for my needs, it ended up the A'pexi AVC-R. Again, that was my personal choice. FWIW, If going Greddy or Blitz, Go with Hector from Exhaust Depot. Besides the point that his prices are very good, you can call him directly and insult him . I have called him at diferent times and have always gotten him, and all I have bought from him is a Turbo Timer![]() Ian
__________________
|
|
|||
|
[quote]I have called him at diferent times and have always gotten him, and all I have bought from him is a Turbo Timer
![]() Ian Iam, im going to set you up as a 1-900 so i can charge you when you call.
__________________
![]() E.D. 3\" Turbo Back, , HKS SSBOV, GReddy-e01 Boost controller, Greddy E-manage fuel management, Blitz Turbo Timer, JE pistons, Ported Head, E.D. Large Frontmount Intercooler, E.D. Tubular manifold with t3/t4 (prototype), IPP coilovers, Limited Slip. |
|
|||
|
Dammit!!!![xx(]
I guess I will be using calling cards from now on. [:I] Just kidding. Thats the idea of this forum. Exchange ideas and experiences. ![]() But going back to the Boost issue. Electronic Boost controllers are very forgiving versus the MBC that are one setting with no flexibility. Another interesting thing is that, because it monitors the TPS, it won't build boost unless it is over the 30% throttle, and it is proportional to the throttle inputs, for example: I go to 20% and I get a 0 PSI in my gauge, I go to 30% and it jumps to 10 PSI, I go to 50% and it moves to 12 PSI, I floor it and it bumps to 14 PSI. In my road setup It does the same thing but up to 12 PSI and then it goes back to 10 PSI. Again, if you want performance with a tight budget go with the MBC, but if you got the "Dinero" go with Electronics! They are so flexible and with the idea that you don't have to open the hood to increase or decrease the boost setting, it just makes the cost worth every penny. [?] Ian
__________________
|
|
|||
|
Ian, can an electronic controller be removed as easily as the MBC if I need to go back to stock appearance? I am not familiar with these. Is the install fairly straight forward like the MBC?
__________________
|
|
|||
|
Well, It is not hard. But it will take you considerable more time because you need to route cables for Power, Ground, Boost solenoid and included boost sensor at a minimum. MBC will take you about 30 seconds to pull out the lines and reconnect the factory solenoid. The electronic one it should take you about one hour.
When I installed mine, I left the factory lines intact and added a "T" to tap into them. When I want to go back to stock, I remove the adapters and reconnect the factory lines. All electrical connectors where connected with the solder less crimp-on wire connectors from Radio Shack that can be opened back and removed from the factory wire and leave just a small mark on the wire which will be covered with electrical tape as OEM. Ian
__________________
|
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Final manual boost controller installation | Ian-PT-GT | Turbo Performance | 85 | 05 Mar 2010 03:04 am |
| Stage II for PT is here! | skripo | General Turbo Discussions | 9 | 12 May 2008 09:11 pm |
| What more can I do to increase HP? | alceryes | General Turbo Discussions | 26 | 31 Mar 2004 09:57 pm |
| Taking control of the boost | Jason_L | Turbo Performance | 2 | 03 Jan 2004 10:35 pm |
| 20lbs of boost and no eng lite | amx1397 | Turbo Performance | 6 | 21 Jun 2003 07:20 pm |