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I've read a lot of the ongoing debate about the benefits of a "Cold Air Intake" (open element) system versus the closed factory system and the impact of it on the temperature of the air passing through the throttle body. Since the turbo raises the temperature of the air, and the intercooler reduces it, I'm not sure what, if any impact the open element system would have on the final temperature. My guess is that it would be somewhat higher by virtue of it drawing in warmer air from the engine compartment.
It seems like reducing the final temperature of the air right before it goes into the throttle body is the ultimate answer. To that end, I'm going to use one of these two systems from Design Engineering: CryO2 Air Intakes use liquid CO2 cryogenic technology to dramatically lower temperatures and blast your engine with denser, more powerful air. 2.5" ODk it consist of an aerodynamically designed bulb with a cryogenic chamber that mounts in any 4" segment of air tube. These powerful systems can be fitted to almost any intake and are perfect for turbo, supercharged and naturally aspirated applications. Dyno tests show temperature decreases of 35% or more. ![]() CryO2 Intercooler Sprayer mounts directly to the front of the intercooler or aftercooler and vents liquid CO2 directly into the cooling fins for enhanced intercooler performance of up to 50%. Choose 16" x 5" or 8" x 4" Sprayer ![]() Each of these components can run off the same CryO2 CO2 Tank kit. The kit includes a 5 pound Co² tank, cryogenic solenoid valve, all necessary fittings, 14 ft. stainless steel hose, full wide open switch, arming switch, and wiring kit. I work for the nation's largest supplier of bulk CO2 to the fountain beverage market, so getting CO2 won't be a problem. I'll probably go with a 20 pound tank instead. |
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Keep us informed. So far, it looks like the most efficient solution I have seen offered or suggested.
If you have any communication with the vendor prior to purchase, see if there is any negative effect from moisture being condensed inside the charge air cooler tubes/piping due to rapid cooling of the intercooler. If there were any downside from this much cooling, it would have to be the result of converting humid intake air to liquid inside the plumbing. We could all panic and p[redict a smow storm, but I don't think it could be that efficient.... BTW, check and see if they have a temp sensor that would mount at the throttle plate equivalent of the Throttle Body that would trigger the spray. I don't know if vapor lock would apply in a fuel injected engine. Monitoring the result of the cooling, the sensor would help maintain a range of cooling and approach consistant temp air being used by the actual engine intake. Also, see if you can get some assurance from your CO2 supplier as to the effects on aluminum cooling fins. |
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As provided by DEI the systems are manually controlled via solenod switch. I would probably keep it that way and only use it in conjunction with higher boost when I have to do "street sweeping" or go to the track.
I am inclined to go with the intake cooler as opposed to the intercooler cooler. Moist carbon dioxide is generally corrosive by its formation of carbonic acid. Carbonic acid is formed in the presence of moisture. This would NOT be good for an aluminum intercoler. [B)] The other problem will be where to locate the high pressure CO2 cylinder which will be about the size of a scuba tank. Never carry a compressed CO2 gas cylinder in an enclosed space such as a car trunk, van or station wagon. A leak can result in asphyxiation or a toxic exposure. [xx(] My current plan, subject to change, is to remove the spare tire and install the tank in a bracket in the space normally occupied by the spare tire.
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2003 Electric Blue PT Cruiser GT 5-spd MOPAR Stage 1 kit Custom Stage 1 emblem on rear hatch Greddy Turbo Timer AGP factory surge valve blockoff plate AGP/TurboXS Type H-RFL BOV 160 degree thermostat Magnacore plug wires Champion RE14PLP5 Double Platinum plugs gapped .050\" Screamin Demon coil Momo shift knob 3 gauge pillar pod with Autometer Lunar boost, EGT and oil pressure gauges Stewart Warner Shift Light Streamline Designs third brake light overlay \"Turbo Cruzer\" Rear splash guards Rear spoiler Hidden Hitch Ichiban pedals Streetglow Xenon headlight and foglight bulbs PCV line oil seperator Firestone Firehawk SZ50 215/50R17 tires PT Tuning axle back exhaust and muffler Mr. Dyno vehicle performance computer Pioneer DEH-P77DH AM/FM/CD Kenwood KSC-WA62RC The WooX 30w x 2 powered subwoofer
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Cool!! Think i saw this on ebay...might be the same company.
Another way, (not as COOL, pun intended!) dry ice in the airbox. Good Idea...keep us posted! |
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I just visited a link yesterday that discussed in length cooling the intercooler with water. Knew I should have bookmarked it. I think it was a link on the SRT site. Anyhow, the bottom line was that the cooling the intercooler really didn't help much since it acted more as a heatsink. Unless you can cool it BEFORE you need it, like waiting in the lineup at the track, it is not effective. Kind of like ice-bagging the intake before a run. In daily driving you would have to pretty much be cooling it all the time so that when you were acutally in boost the temp would be transfered to the intake air. Throtle switches didn't work because of the short time you are really in boost. The intake air temp didn't rise until after he was out of boost.
Well I am probably butchering this guys findings so I will stop now.
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