PT Cruiser Forum  
Advertisements
       

Go Back   PT Cruiser Forum > 2.4L Turbo Forums > Turbo Performance

PT Cruiser Forum

Advertisements
Autometer gauges

 
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 17 Jul 2003, 12:21 am
Fanatic Cruiser
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Rhode Island.
Posts: 950
Default Autometer gauges

Heya.
have the boost gauge and pyrometer (the kits that come with wiring, probes and stuff). Have the general concept of how they hook up. Issue is with execution and wiring. I have heard some refer to a fuse tap rather than splicing wires, can someone please elucidate this issue. Also, if i look at the fuse box diagram, i need a constant 12v source for the boost gauge, can someone recommend a tap in. i have a 5spd, and there is no fuse 16 for a/s ignition. thx.
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 17 Jul 2003, 12:41 am
Cool Cruiser
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: USA.
Posts: 241
Default

I had a friend do mine. I HATE wireing stuff. I always end up fukin stuff up. I think he wired into a key on constant source for the lights. I will look tomarow
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 17 Jul 2003, 10:44 am
Fanatic Cruiser
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Marcus Hook, Pa., USA.
Posts: 580
Default

Pep Boys sells a product called Add a circuit. It is a dual fuse holder that plugs into the fusebox. on top there is a double fuse holder (one to replace the fuse that you took out to install the add a circuit) and a second for the circuit being added. There is a pigtail with a connector that you wire into the new device being added. The factory radio fuse is a switched 12v source, and since you are adding another fuse you do not have to be concerned with current draw. I have my volt AutoMeter volts gauge and my pyrometer hooked up that way. It is safe, and easy. I believe the cost for the kit is around 6 dollars. It is located along with the Auto fuses.
[?]
Alan
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 17 Jul 2003, 11:30 am
Fanatic Cruiser
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Brunswick, Georgia, USA.
Posts: 518
Default

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by PTGT Redman

Heya.
have the boost gauge and pyrometer (the kits that come with wiring, probes and stuff). Have the general concept of how they hook up. Issue is with execution and wiring. I have heard some refer to a fuse tap rather than splicing wires, can someone please elucidate this issue. Also, if i look at the fuse box diagram, i need a constant 12v source for the boost gauge, can someone recommend a tap in. i have a 5spd, and there is no fuse 16 for a/s ignition. thx.
The fuse tap is a small/flat copper piece that slides under one leg of the fuse, and extends to the top of the fuse where it terminates in a small male spade lug. I got mine at Advanced Auto parts. Most parts stores should carry them. They are for the Mini Fuse, and the package is labeled Mini Fuse Power Tap; Conduct-Tite! part number 85601 - 4 to a package.

The fuse box has 20 fuses; 5 rows of 4. The top of the fuse is the "feed" point, the bottom is the "load" point. To take advantage of the fuse in the fuse box, you should tap onto the bottom of the fuse.

Top row - Fuses 1 through 4: Fuses 1,2 and 3 are Fused B+; constant hot. They are "ganged" together; fed by the same source. Fuse 4 is a separate B+ source (Constant HOT)

2nd Row - Fuses 5 through 8: Fuses 5, 6 and 7 are Fused Ignition Switch Output (RUN). They are "ganged" together; fed by the same source. Fuse 8 is a Fused Headlight Relay Output.

3rd Row - Fuses 9 through 12: All 4 are Fused Ignition Switch Output (RUN-START). They are "ganged" together; fed by the same source.

4th Row - Fuses 13 through 16: Fuse 13 is a separate B+ Source Constant HOT). Fuses 14 and 15 are ganged together and are Fused Ignition Switch Output (RUN-ACC). Fuse 16 is a separate B+ Source (Constant HOT).

5th Row - Fuses 17 through 20: Fuse 17 is a separate B+ Source Constant HOT). Fuse 18 is Fused Rear Window Defogger Switch Output. Fuses 19 and 20 are Fused Low Beam Outputs.

At the top of the fuse panel are slots for 2 circuit breakers (CB). CB1 is not active. CB2 is a fused Ignition Switch Output (RUN)

At the bottom of the fuse box are 3 relay sockets A - C. A (on the lower left) is the Headlamp Relay. B (on the lower right) is the Heated Seat Relay (If Equipped). C (at very bottom - Center) is a Spare, and is not active.

Confirm these with a test light to be sure. If you want to have the maximum room to work with the fuse panel, swing down the panel below the steering wheel, remove the 2 screws on the left side of the opening and remove the left panel (that covers the fuse panel) by pulling it out and slightly up at the same time. Then remove the 2 screws holding the fuse panel to be able to get to both front and back. If you decide to take this route, do so after confirming which fuse/circuit you will use, remove the negative battery connector. This will prevent shorting and arcing to the metal framework if the back of the fuse panel comes in contact while working with it. It also prevents getting the front panel (Knee Bolster) scratched when trying to pull the fuse panel out enough to see the back side.

Hope this helps.
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 18 Jul 2003, 12:17 am
Fanatic Cruiser
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Rhode Island.
Posts: 950
Default

Thanks for the info. So, Dalite, for the power tap for the light in the gauges which fuse(s) would you recommend?
For the gauge power?
Where is a reliable ground for the other wires?
Thanks.
If I drill for the pyrometer in the cuff after the joint in the exhaust, should I try to drill on the upper side or side of the pipe?
Thanks.
Oh I forgot, the boost gauge kit comes with a MAP sensor. where is a safe place to mount this along the firewall?
Rob
__________________

2003 GT Inferno Red,5-spd,Eibach Springs,Koni Sport Adjustables, Eibach front and rear Sway Bars, Mopar Stage 1,Mopar BOV,Custom 2.5\" Dual Tip Exhaust (Magnaflow),Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Pioneer DEH6500 Headunit, RF Punch 300 and 301 Amps,RF 12\" Sub and MB Quart Reference and Premium Speakers,Ronal RT 17x7.5\'s with Michelin Pilot Sport 225/45ZR17s, Koni Adjustible shocks, Keystone single scoop, GT Airraid Intake, Mopar Ground Effects
Homepage:
http://www.cardomain.com/id/ptgtredman

http://blueman.ptenthusiasts.net/index.html
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 18 Jul 2003, 10:29 pm
Fanatic Cruiser
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Brunswick, Georgia, USA.
Posts: 518
Default

Rob,

I am pretty good at digging thru the manuals for the fuse box info, don't know if I can be much more help...

Fuses 14 and 15 for gauge power if you want to be able to read them on the ACC position as well as the RUN position. If only wanting to read them on the RUN key position, then 5,6 or 7 should do.

I think there is a wire harness running up the left A pillar that carries dash lighting to the overhead display. I believe you will be looking for the Orange wire for yur gague lights. Drilling into the A Pillar, or running a wire down to the metal that the fuse box mounts too will provide a good ground for the lighting circuits.

I would try to put the bung about 45 degrees above horizontal; or half way between top and side of the downpipe, after the joint, if possible. That should offer more protection, and further insulate the wires from heat at the top and prevent them from falling down on the pipe.

Next to the TIP sensor is a good location on the firewall. You can remove the passenger's side cowling easily to look at the back side of the engine firewall and determione the best place to drill and attach backing hardware (if needed). This offers a mounting location that is vertical, and apparently Chrylser was happy with it as a location for the TIP sensor.

I haven't done the EGT or EBC on mine, and I am only guessing here, from what I have observed on my car and the manual; not from experience. Proceed with caution...
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 19 Jul 2003, 12:11 am
Fanatic Cruiser
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Rhode Island.
Posts: 950
Default

Took apart the lower dash. could see where the stereo guys round the main 4g wire through the grommet seal of the large wire bundle going through the firewall. I think i will run my boost and pyrometer wires thru there. also, there is a bracket with a single hole below the empty slot where the auto tranny computer module would go. since the firewall slopes i came up with a way to mount a long screw up thru the hole and then spin one end of the sensor on the screw and lock it in place with some lock washers. this seems stable, in a cool area and looks like it should be stable. otherwise i have to fab a bracket.
I see the orange wire on the a pillar. should i splice that, and can it handle both power sources for the lights fopr the gauges or am i better off tapping the fuse thatg goes to the dash lights. i want them top go on with the headlights and dash lghts.
__________________

2003 GT Inferno Red,5-spd,Eibach Springs,Koni Sport Adjustables, Eibach front and rear Sway Bars, Mopar Stage 1,Mopar BOV,Custom 2.5\" Dual Tip Exhaust (Magnaflow),Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Pioneer DEH6500 Headunit, RF Punch 300 and 301 Amps,RF 12\" Sub and MB Quart Reference and Premium Speakers,Ronal RT 17x7.5\'s with Michelin Pilot Sport 225/45ZR17s, Koni Adjustible shocks, Keystone single scoop, GT Airraid Intake, Mopar Ground Effects
Homepage:
http://www.cardomain.com/id/ptgtredman

http://blueman.ptenthusiasts.net/index.html
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 19 Jul 2003, 12:52 am
Fanatic Cruiser
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Rhode Island.
Posts: 950
Default

hmm. all the links i have read show the tube running from the gauge thru the firewall to the t in the vacuum hose. my "kit" comes with this MAPI sensor that i wire a harness to and then run the plastic tube from that to the t piece. so the only thing ik have to run through the grommet in the fw is the wiring. question is how you splice or tap into the wirig the right way. thx.
__________________

2003 GT Inferno Red,5-spd,Eibach Springs,Koni Sport Adjustables, Eibach front and rear Sway Bars, Mopar Stage 1,Mopar BOV,Custom 2.5\" Dual Tip Exhaust (Magnaflow),Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Pioneer DEH6500 Headunit, RF Punch 300 and 301 Amps,RF 12\" Sub and MB Quart Reference and Premium Speakers,Ronal RT 17x7.5\'s with Michelin Pilot Sport 225/45ZR17s, Koni Adjustible shocks, Keystone single scoop, GT Airraid Intake, Mopar Ground Effects
Homepage:
http://www.cardomain.com/id/ptgtredman

http://blueman.ptenthusiasts.net/index.html
Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 19 Jul 2003, 01:32 am
Fanatic Cruiser
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Brunswick, Georgia, USA.
Posts: 518
Default

I think the orange wire should be able to handle the current for the gauge lights. The fuse would power the lights at full brightness whenever the headlights were on.

Sounds like the mounting location you found by the PCM is ideal; close to where you tap for the vacuum/boost input, as well as the pass-through grommet in the firewall.

I hate to tap into a wiring harness. However, when I do have to, for simplicity I use a "T Tap". It is like a scotch-lock, only it makes a female spade connection to accept a shrouded male spade lug. This gives you the option to daisy chain more than one connection from only 1 intrusion on the harness.

The absolute best way would be to cut out a 1/2" section of insulation, wrap the new wire around the exposed harness wire, solder and tape. However, unless you are used to making quick solder joints with high temp and heatsinking both sides of the solder joint to avoid melting insulation in close places; this can get messy. Also, unless you use a good quality electrical tape, there is always the possibility of it losing it's adhesive and sliding off the connection due to the effects of heat and vibration.

You can also cut the wire, and use butt connectors and crimper to add a new wire to the circuit. If you chose this route, I would suggest covering the crimped butt connector using a long enough piece of heat shrink tubing to extend at least 3/8" beyond each end of the crimps.

I tend to over-complicate my installations, and try to make them withstand more than normal punishment.

I would really like to see Chrysler provide tap points for switched power (RUN, ACC, ACC/RUN), constant power, 12 volts when lights are on, variable illimination power (tied to lamp dimmer on stalk), alarm output pulse, etc.

Since this is now both a tuner car, and one designed to reach the accessorizing oriented market, they should treat it as such. The more times you have to tap into the harness by piercing the insulation of one of it's wires, the bigger chance you take on creating an electrical problem down the line.
Reply With Quote
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 19 Jul 2003, 06:34 am
Cool Cruiser
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Reisterstown, MD, USA.
Posts: 271
Default

Redman,
The probe for the EGT should be about 2" from the turbo.
Tom
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Can you say Gauges! Wicked_PT General PT Cruiser Discussions 24 23 May 2009 06:15 pm
Stock Looking Gauges 2step Classifieds: For Sale/Trade 1 21 Sep 2005 01:23 pm
aftermarket gauges dfunkdj Turbo Performance 3 08 Jun 2004 10:40 am
Gauges Mean Green Turbo Performance 3 06 May 2003 09:55 pm
Add-on Gauges Help 2K1Cruizer Tech & Performance Forum 2 03 Dec 2001 07:42 pm


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:21 pm.




Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.2
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
LinkBacks Enabled by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2 © 2011, Crawlability, Inc.
vB.Sponsors