Mopar BOV

[nevinsrt]

I put the BOV on my wifes Cruiser and she love it.
it still pulls hard but they do tend to leak, ive seen it on my SRTs block off plate, and on some other local guys SRTs, some copper RTV fix that.

the 3rd bolt is easer to get to on the Cruiser than on the SRT-4
it only took me 20 min to change it.

I still need to Boost leak test her car but wont be able to do it for a while works been getting more and more busy.

[dc3_1132]

Originally Posted by nevinsrt

I put the BOV on my wifes Cruiser and she love it.
it still pulls hard but they do tend to leak, ive seen it on my SRTs block off plate, and on some other local guys SRTs, some copper RTV fix that.

the 3rd bolt is easer to get to on the Cruiser than on the SRT-4
it only took me 20 min to change it.

I still need to Boost leak test her car but wont be able to do it for a while works been getting more and more busy.

Is your wife's PT an auto or a manual? If it is a manual, does it blow off if you just bearly touch and let-off the gas? Also, does it seem to stay open for a loooooonnng time?

[nevinsrt]

Originally Posted by dc3_1132

Is your wife's PT an auto or a manual? If it is a manual, does it blow off if you just bearly touch and let-off the gas? Also, does it seem to stay open for a loooooonnng time?

its an Auto with Autostick
when in boost the surge valve shouldnt open because the throttle body
is still open and air is still entering the engine.

On a manual yes it should bearly bleed off when you let off and it should only open long enough to vent or recurclate. and how long its open is limited to how long it takes you to shift or when it finishes venting.
the longest it should take is around 2-3 secs

if its staying open longer then either you have a boost leak or you have a week spring.

[dc3_1132]

Originally Posted by nevinsrt

its an Auto with Autostick
when in boost the surge valve shouldnt open because the throttle body
is still open and air is still entering the engine.

On a manual yes it should bearly bleed off when you let off and it should only open long enough to vent or recurclate. and how long its open is limited to how long it takes you to shift or when it finishes venting.
the longest it should take is around 2-3 secs

if its staying open longer then either you have a boost leak or you have a week spring.

I haven't tested it for a leak yet, (still making my leak tester) but I am thinking it is leaking around the BOV. The car just doesn't seem to pull as hard now that I installed the BOV.

After I did the airbox mods and installed the 3" charge pipe, the car would pull pretty strong all the way up the RPM range. I could actually be cruising along is 2nd gear and start rolling in the throttle and when the boost built up it would start to spin the tires. Now it won't do that. When I roll into the throttle now, it starts to pull pretty good, then seems to flatten out.

[nevinsrt]

Originally Posted by dc3_1132

I haven't tested it for a leak yet, (still making my leak tester) but I am thinking it is leaking around the BOV. The car just doesn't seem to pull as hard now that I installed the BOV.

After I did the airbox mods and installed the 3" charge pipe, the car would pull pretty strong all the way up the RPM range. I could actually be cruising along is 2nd gear and start rolling in the throttle and when the boost built up it would start to spin the tires. Now it won't do that. When I roll into the throttle now, it starts to pull pretty good, then seems to flatten out.

Pull off the Plate and coat the gasket with RTV (both sides) and reinstall it.
and let it dry for a few hours, to help speed up the process you could do it in the evening and then let the car idle for a few minutes and let the engine warm up to operating temps and that will allow the RTV to cure a little faster.

[nevinsrt]

Originally Posted by nevinsrt

Pull off the Plate and coat the gasket with RTV (both sides) and reinstall it.
and let it dry for a few hours, to help speed up the process you could do it in the evening and then let the car idle for a few minutes and let the engine warm up to operating temps and that will allow the RTV to cure a little faster.

Also have you installed a Check valve on the car.
if not Bwoody sells them for around $30

the stock engine comes with alot of boost leaks
the check valve seals up one major boost leak and cuts down
on blow by. the blow by shows up in the stock airbox or inside the turbo
and intakes with a vac line into the valve cover.

[nevinsrt]

before you do your boost leak test you should zip tie all your vac lines
you should do it even whether or not you do the test.
it helps close potental leaks

[dc3_1132]

So, just by my description of what the car is doing, it sounds like a boost leak to you?

[nevinsrt]

Originally Posted by dc3_1132

So, just by my description of what the car is doing, it sounds like a boost leak to you?

yes thats what it sounds like

[nevinsrt]

another thing if you have a boost controller
take it off when you do a leak test
the boost controller is an induced boost leak.