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Yeah, that is what I figured too.
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I did not imply that a lot of dirt is not filtered by the K/N, I just ment that there is more than a stock filter. Also with the cone, there is more heat soak vs. airbox. sorry for the confusion
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Like I said before, I am sure the car is heavier than what what I dialed in but like Dragula Stated, If I used that for the first Pass, I have to use it fo all others Or it will give me bogus increases or decreases in HP.
PVO, I have a K&N but it is a Drop in Pannel filter just like the factory one, using the factory Air Box. Now I understand what you were talking about. I think the same way about cone type filters inside the engine bay. Ian
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but are you running your 1/4 mile time using the wrong weight to get your low 14 time??? It may be a partial indicator of hp increase, but there is some definite discrepancy between the G-tech hp numbers and your 1/4 mile, with the right weight entered in the G-tech or not...
PVO- you metioned heatsoak being an issue with cone filters... granted there is always an issue of heatsoak when it comes to turbo cars. But from what i've noticed with the GT versus other cars like the VW 1.8T; the stock GT intercooler does a GREAT job of reducing charge temperature... I personally am not that concerned with how much "hot" air i'm sucking in as opposed to the quantity of air. If i can suck in more air with the cone, for me that will offset the potentially higher temperatures... I'm toying with the idea of modding my stock airbox (my latest top secret project). If i told you what i was planning, i'd have to KILL you!!! [ ]
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My Cruiser is slow. I love the law. |
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Cop, Pm me with the details of yo Secret mods. We have to talk in private! I will share some ideas with u. The drop in K/N has proved to NOT increase HPS. It has a smaller filtering area than the stock filter. Just my thaughts.
Also you would be suprised how quick the I/C gets heat soaked!! |
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I run the quarter mile using the Track's computer and lights.
I know the G-Tech is giving low HP but it is constant I didn't wanted to measure total horsepower. I wanted to know if I was increasing or decreasing HP with my mods. I know that for exact power increase or decrease info, it has to be done on a controlled environment on a dyno. I just had time to kill and wanted a ballpark number. Using a HP calculation hp = weight / (ET / 5.825)3 http://www.dsm.org/tools/calchp.htm In my 14.75 ET at 92 MPH, and still using the 3300 LBS,The calculated HP is 203 at the wheels. in my 14.01 ET at 98 MPH I get 237 HP at the wheel... I personnaly think this not an accurate way of testing. Like the disclamer says, this are ballpark numbers and cannot be used as accurate. Ian
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Ian,
I have heard vehicle weights all over the board 3180, 3300, 3400. Since we are working with HP/LB I would sure like to know how and where all the different weights occur. Specifically: seats & spare out, 1/4 tank gas? auto vs. manual? moon roof weight? |
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I weighted my GT.,with a 1/4 tank my Autostick was 3310 lbs.by the way it was with a spoiler and Borla dual exhaust..Also with out using weather correction your testing is not any good,I have been using weather correcting for more then 10 years and found that testing for 40 years before using was a waste of time .OLDHEAD(but not dead)
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if he was using the same thing over and over, he was getting fairly accuarte results. Say I use a device to check my horsepower and it reads 100, then I add a Cold air intake and check it again and records me at 110, it did it's job, it showed the increase, weather correction or not....
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Life dealt me a hand and I\'m bluffing hard, I\'m playing poker with a joker and some uno cards. |
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Old head,
Mine is exactly like yours, My weight is not so far off then. Yes, the total numbers are screwed but the number increase should be real. Take the test for what it is worth. I was not in a controlled environment, or a Chasis Dyno but it was fun doing it and it gave me a ballpark increase in the HP side. Ian
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