Bell Electronics FX series Accelerometers

[Dalite]

I just got one of these for my Cruiser.

http://www.beltronics.com/fx.html

I got the FX-1 from Circuit City. It was in stock at the $149.99 retail price.

I took off the suction cups from the bracket and slid the mounting bracket between the overhead console and the headliner at the rear of the overhead console for a semi-permanent installation. I also made a new power pigtail that I wired into the overhead console power source, and placed a switch to control it in the sunroof switch location. (No sunroof on mine).

Haven't had much time to play with it, but it should be a way to tell if there are any differences in performance after mods.

I hope to take some pics of the final installation in the daylight and post them.

[Ian-PT-GT]

Dalite,

You are going to enjoy that "Goodie". Mine is a G-Tech but like you have seen, maybe it has stayed too long inside the car.

Post the numbers you get when you test with it.

Ian

[Dalite]

Ian,

Do you use 2.0 degrees of pitch per G for acceleration and 3.0 degrees pitch per G for roll figures?

I guess I should first ask if the G-Tech lets you adjust those.

Right now, I am going with 3350 lbs weight
2.0 degrees pitch per G (Accel and Decel)
3.0 degrees pitch per G (roll)
12" Roll Out
Min speed for HP Calc = 30 MPH
Max speed for HP Calc = 50 MPH

I hope to have some pics and some testing done today. I know of a few deserted areas that have minimum traffic, and the roads here are dry for the first time in a few days....

I know it probably won't give dead accurate tests figures, but it will provide relative info to tell me if I am taking the right steps when experimenting.

I put the Air Raid intake on last week; replacing the K&N Drop In Filter.

I may end up trying it with the Air Raid, then Backwards to the K&N Drop-in and back from there to the stock paper element to see if I can get any different readings on that.

I am also thinking about getting a new set of the stock spark plugs, gapping them to .042 and then seeing if that makes a diff.

If I find a difference on the new plugs and lower gapping, I will try to take a read on the old ones to determine if it was from detonation or hotter spark. I wish I could get a look at the firing line on a scope while it is breaking down. I have one of the older handheld (pen scopes) that is 12 operated for in-circuit testing, and I may try to run a shielded wire from the probe and ground to a loop pickup to the engine compartment to see if there is any stray voltage bouncing around. Not very scientific, but it may tell some tales.


If it looks like there has been higher than normal spark voltages delivered to offset misfire, I will consider replacing the plug wires after I have the misfire problem cured. Sustained misfire of the plugs can place a strainon the wires, with the high voltage available form the modern ignition systems.

[Dalite]

Pics

Overall from front:



Switch Panel / Connector ( Sunroof Switch location)

[Dalite]

Initial Times :

This is all new to me, so these probably aren't exactly accurate, but should be relative.

Air Raid GT Intake
Hallman ES MBC (PCM Owns it) 15 PSI dropping down to around 10 PSI
A/C on and all windows up (Doh!) - Will try to remember to test next time with A/C off...

Run 1
94 degrees underhood temp
11:30 AM - Sunny
1/4 mile 15.25 secs @ 90.5 mph
1000' 12.78 sec
1/8 mile 9.88 secs @ 72.6
330' 6.47 secs
60' 2.33 secs
Max Speed 91.3 mph
124 hp - 153 peak hp @ 53 mph
0-90 - 14.85 secs
0-80 - 11.30 secs
0-70 - 08.98 secs
0-60 - 06.65 secs
0-50 - 05.13 secs
0-40 - 03.88 secs
0-30 - 02.37 secs
0-20 - 01.45 secs
0-10 - 00.50 secs


Run 2
95 degrees underhood temp
11:40 AM - Sunny
1/4 mile 15.50 secs @ 88.4 mph
1000' 12.97 sec
1/8 mile 10.00 secs @ 71.5
330' 6.55 secs
60' 2.40 secs
Max Speed 89.1 mph
120 hp - 143 peak hp @ 52 mph
0-80 - 11.93 secs
0-70 - 09.33 secs
0-60 - 07.12 secs
0-50 - 05.23 secs
0-40 - 03.85 secs
0-30 - 02.53 secs
0-20 - 01.55 secs
0-10 - 00.55 secs


I am going to try to get the weight a little closer and maybe try again later today. I think I will remember to turn off the A/C the next time.

[dgc333]

Dalite, do you know if this unit calculates the 1/4 mile speed right at the end of the 1/4 or like it's reported at the track, an average over the last 60'? The G-Tech calculates the speed at the end of the 1/4 so the speed numbers are always a few mph's higher than you get at the track.

[Ian-PT-GT]

Dalite,

I guess my numbers are not that off...
Check my Thread.

How I was taught to check if the accelerometer is working is to tilt it and it should read 1.00 G when facing up. for testing it has to be perfectly level and the screen should read 0.00G.

I was talking to some friends that use them and gave me a nice explenation of the low numbers we are getting.

Dynoes measure the drivetrain HP with the car stationary. The accelerometer measures the hp with the car runing against the wind, The drag effect is what is making the low HP numbers you are seeing, It does not compensate for the drag coeficient of the body wich i am sure is huge. the best way is to use this gadget is for measuring the diferent efects of what you add or remove.

Ian

[Dalite]

It will measure the full quarter if you stay on top of the pedal until it senses that you have traveled the distance. You can also select a 30 second run (if you are looking more toward top end runs), or decelerate before the quarter and it will give the speed projected up to the end of the quarter, based on the speed when you got out of it.

I have a correction factor that I can add to make the HP figures go up. It says to divide the hp I am getting into the verified rated hp, and enter that in as the correction factor. I am running uncorrected.

I can do the tilt test to see that I get a G at 90 degrees up, down, left or right. It also has a calibration verification test that does basically the same thing. I will get a better understanding of it as I use it some more. The Subaru dealership where I get the wife's Forrester serviced will be putting in a 4 wheel dyno (if they haven't already done it since the last time I was there) and a "tuner" shop that will take all brands. I hope to get some stable readings that show my driving is consistent, what works and what doesn't; then take it in for the real dyno test and compare the HP figures to determine the correction factor.

I may get the bug enough to go to the track (50 miles away) sometime during the summer, if I can convince myself my launch and 60 times are good enough to give it a try. Somehow, I missed out on all this when I was growing up.

I will go back and read your earlier thread. Now, it will make a bunch more sense to me...

David