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Yesterday I was doing one of those "Boring Day / PT Research Day"
![]() I decided to hear the BOV with the hood open.[} ]I revved up the engine at the throttle body, by hand and let go to hear the BOV.[8D] I heard and felt the air coming out of the BOV. What got me to think is that the BOV exhaust ports points toward the Air intake area. I have the factory airbox. I placed the hand behind the airbox and tested again. My gut feelings became real, the BOV vents directly to the airbox and it vents hot air!!! With the silencer in place the air won't get inside the engine. But... If you have a cone type Air filter with no shield, that hot air will be sucked back to the intake making the I/C work harder and IMHO, making the upgrade useless. The compressor would keep spining freely but you will be re-heating the air that went already thru the turbo. Test it in your cars and post your observations. Just some food for thought. Disclamer: Not a Profesional test, Just an observation that will be validated or denied by all of you.[:X] Let the posting begin...[?] Ian |
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I wouldn't worry too much. There is so much hot air under the hood that the little "psshhh" isn't going to make that much differnce IMHO. There are defintely bigger performance fish to fry.
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I'm not sure what you mean.Bear with me as I dont have this setup sitting in front of me.The whole point of a recirculation bov is to have the air returned to the intake tract. The exhaust of the bov should be placed pointing at the compressor wheel of the turbo in order to reduce lag between shifts. I dont understand what you mean by "It vents directly to the airbox". It would have to have a tube running from the exhaust of the bov into the airbox, which would be kinda pointless when they could aim it at the turbo and improve performance. I may be way off here, but in my experience with turbos this has been the case. Maybe a pic would help.
My $.02 Mike
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90 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD - 300 Hp -K&N, 16g turbo, JE pistons, 3in Turbo back exhaust, mild port&polish 03 PT Cruiser GT - 215 Hp-Airbox and Intake pipe silencers removed |
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The MOPAR BOV Shuts down the "Recirculation" and becomes an "atmosferic" settup like any other BOV.
The factory settup uses a 3/8" ID hose to move air from the turbo to the intake. The "kit" blocks off the exaust port going to the hose and all the air escapes tru four 1/4" holes on the sides of the Kit. All four are pointing toward the intake system so when it open up, all the presure hits the airbox from the outside. With this settup, nothing happens because the airbox intake is on the oposite side. With the airbox removed, the BOV Blast will hit the filter and heat it more than normal. My concern here is that the Upgrade and increase or air escaping with the BOV can get the Filter heat soaked and maybe lowering the HP that you could get. With the Factory "Recirculating" settup, there is much less air volume being released because of the exhaust lines and returning to the turbo at the inlet area. In the other settup, you may be increasing the underhood temp and with the outlets pointing toward the filter, defenetly it will heat the filter more than normal and in the long run, hotter air for the I/C to cool down. Ian
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My point here is that if you get ,In Theory, 98 Degrees of air thru the intake and the turbo heats it up to 195 Degree, once the BOV opens, It releases 195 Degrees into the intake. Now the intake will be maybe 160 Degrees going into the turbo and once compressed reach 220 or more going to the I/C making it work more and giving you an air charge less dense making maybe less HP than with a cooler air.
This is all theory... no actual test have ben done, but at least to me, it sounds logical. All I am saing with all this crap is that, if you have a cone type filter, you should have some kind of shield to deflect the hot air escaping from the BOV. Ian
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Without a doubt you are right Ian. The best solution is probably a thermally protected air box with access to cooler outside air. 2 or 3 of the manifacturers make semi functional heat barriers now, but I am hoping that K&N will do more. Maybe not make just another tube with a cone filter at the end.
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Kirby, K&N decided not to make a thermal barrier as their tests did not show any problems without the heat shield. Mine works great makes lots of noise under even half throttle acceleration. Backing off you can hear turbo noises. So far i just love mine although I didnt get a dyno print out so I can't tell you how much real power it makes but it is good! My moded stock box made 200 HP on the K&N dyno!
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06 GT Auto, Cool Vanila Exterior, Presto Change O 3bl, Cargo Mat and Net, Billet Oil Cap, Yoko Avid 4Vs Tires, 03 GT Wheels, 4 Chrome Door Handle Screw Covers, MOPAR Mud Flaps, H&R Rear Sway Bar, Freedom Strut Tower Bar, Rear Door Sill Covers. |
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That's 200 at the wheel now or before the K&N?
Is your ride a manual or autostick? What mods do you have? I hate to be contrary with the K&N folks, Cal has relocated his outside temp to the engine bay (a great use for a most times useless guage). When the car is moving, no problems. When the car is stopped, there is a significant temp change. |
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Quote:
Ian
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Marc 2003 PT Cruiser GT Turbo, Silver 1985 Dodge Omni GLH Turbo 16V, Black http://connect.to/YBT |
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