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"Mysterious" turbo engine noise...???


 
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 10 Mar 2004, 01:14 am
brngrhd brngrhd is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: dane, wi, USA.
Posts: 204
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i logged on to chrysler and this my help don't know it gives tsb number and an overview of the problem and fix






NUMBER: 09-007-04
GROUP: Engine
DATE: March 2, 2004
This bulletin is supplied as technical information only and is not an authorization for repair. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retreival system,
or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, or otherwise, without written permission of DaimlerChrysler Corporation.
SUBJECT:
Irregular Engine Snapping Sound
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves chamfering the bore radius on cam bearing caps
L2 through L5 and R2 through R5.
MODELS:
2001 - 2004 (JR) Sebring Convertible/Sebring Sedan/Stratus Sedan
2002 - 2004 (KJ) Liberty
2002 - 2004 (KJ) Cherokee (International Markets)
2003 - 2004 (PL) Neon
2001 - 2004 (PT) PT Cruiser
2001 - 2004 (RG) Chrysler Voyager (International Markets)
2001 - 2004 (RS) Town & Country/ Caravan/Voyager
2003 - 2004 (TJ) Wrangler
NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with a 2.0L, 2.4L DOHC or 2.4L
Turbo engine (sales code ECC, EDZ, ED1, EDV, ED2 or EDT).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The sound may be noticed when the engine is idling in park between idle rpm and 1400
rpm at normal operating temperature. The sound is on the upper end of the engine
(cylinder head) towards the front of the engine or passenger side (right side). The sound is
irregular, not periodic or harmonious. The frequency of the sound will increase with RPM.
The sound is more of a higher pitch snapping noise not a low metallic knock.
DIAGNOSIS:
If the vehicle operator describes the Symptom/Condition and the technician determines
that the sound is from the upper end of the engine (cylinder head) towards the front of
the engine or passenger side (right side), perform the Repair Procedure.
09-007-04 -2-
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
1. Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to information available in TechCONNECT
9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD COVER - Removal)
2. Remove L2 cam bearing cap (Fig. 1).
NOTE: Do not remove the #L1/R1 or L6 cam bearing caps, or loosen the fasteners.
NOTE: Only remove one cam bearing cap at a time.
Fig. 1 CAMSHAFT BEARING CAP IDENTIFICATION
3. Lightly chamfer the two bore radius edges with a small hand file, creating a 45 chamfer
1.0 to 1.5 mm in width along the edge of each bore radius (Fig. 2).
CAUTION: Be careful not to scratch bore surface of cam bearing
cap. Chamfer both bore radius.
Fig. 2 CAMSHAFT BEARING CAP
1 - CAM BEARING CAP RADIUS
4. Clean part to remove any aluminum filings prior to reinstalling.
-3- 09-007-04
5. Reinstall L2 cam bearing cap by loosely assembling fasteners. Prior to and during the
torquing of each fastener, twist the cam bearing cap by hand in a clockwise direction,
as viewed from the top of the engine. Torque M6 fasteners to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
while maintaining a clockwise twisting force on the cam bearing cap.
6. Repeat steps 2 through 4 for cam bearing caps L3, L4, L5, R2, R3, R4, R5 and R6.
POLICY:
Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Operation
No:
FAILURE CODE:
52 Improperly Machined
__________________
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1925 modle t pulling truck w/864hp 673ft/lb 2002 harley, 1998 zrt 600 cat
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 10 Mar 2004, 02:47 am
Jason_L Jason_L is offline
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Location: Columbus, ohio.
Posts: 160
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you might want to share this with the guys at srtforums..
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2003 Electric Blue GT
- Greddy E0-1, boost and AFR guages
- Custom exhaust: no muffler, side exit.
- Replaced air box with open end cone filter.
- Stage 1
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 10 Mar 2004, 02:01 pm
rszappa1 rszappa1 is offline
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Location: louisville, kentucky, USA.
Posts: 658
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Thanks for the TSB information....After reading it and knowing a little about rebuilding an engine...there is no way I would let them...the dealer do this work...If it was just replacing superseeded parts I would but Filing down bearings and to a certain measurement....I thinl you are asking for trouble....unless you have a local MECH. at a dealer that will spend the time and has the knowhow to do it...For now I will just live with it....
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 18 Mar 2004, 08:08 pm
rszappa1 rszappa1 is offline
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Posts: 658
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Well i just read a few posts on the srt4 forum and a few people have had the new "TSB" done and the reluts are good...no more noise...
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 23 Apr 2004, 01:10 pm
wsd0836 wsd0836 is offline
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Location: High Point, NC, USA.
Posts: 21
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My 03 Turbo did this too. Dealer replaced the cam bearing caps. That fixed it.

NUMBER: 09-007-04
GROUP: Engine
DATE: March 2, 2004
This bulletin is supplied as technical information only and is not an authorization for repair. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retreival system,
or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, or otherwise, without written permission of DaimlerChrysler Corporation.
SUBJECT:
Irregular Engine Snapping Sound
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves chamfering the bore radius on cam bearing caps
L2 through L5 and R2 through R5.
MODELS:
2001 - 2004 (JR) Sebring Convertible/Sebring Sedan/Stratus Sedan
2002 - 2004 (KJ) Liberty
2002 - 2004 (KJ) Cherokee (International Markets)
2003 - 2004 (PL) Neon
2001 - 2004 (PT) PT Cruiser
2001 - 2004 (RG) Chrysler Voyager (International Markets)
2001 - 2004 (RS) Town & Country/ Caravan/Voyager
2003 - 2004 (TJ) Wrangler
NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with a 2.0L, 2.4L DOHC or 2.4L
Turbo engine (sales code ECC, EDZ, ED1, EDV, ED2 or EDT).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The sound may be noticed when the engine is idling in park between idle rpm and 1400
rpm at normal operating temperature. The sound is on the upper end of the engine
(cylinder head) towards the front of the engine or passenger side (right side). The sound is
irregular, not periodic or harmonious. The frequency of the sound will increase with RPM.
The sound is more of a higher pitch snapping noise not a low metallic knock.
DIAGNOSIS:
If the vehicle operator describes the Symptom/Condition and the technician determines
that the sound is from the upper end of the engine (cylinder head) towards the front of
the engine or passenger side (right side), perform the Repair Procedure.
09-007-04 -2-
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
1. Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to information available in TechCONNECT
9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD COVER - Removal)
2. Remove L2 cam bearing cap (Fig. 1).
NOTE: Do not remove the #L1/R1 or L6 cam bearing caps, or loosen the fasteners.
NOTE: Only remove one cam bearing cap at a time.
Fig. 1 CAMSHAFT BEARING CAP IDENTIFICATION
3. Lightly chamfer the two bore radius edges with a small hand file, creating a 45 chamfer
1.0 to 1.5 mm in width along the edge of each bore radius (Fig. 2).
CAUTION: Be careful not to scratch bore surface of cam bearing
cap. Chamfer both bore radius.
Fig. 2 CAMSHAFT BEARING CAP
1 - CAM BEARING CAP RADIUS
4. Clean part to remove any aluminum filings prior to reinstalling.
-3- 09-007-04
5. Reinstall L2 cam bearing cap by loosely assembling fasteners. Prior to and during the
torquing of each fastener, twist the cam bearing cap by hand in a clockwise direction,
as viewed from the top of the engine. Torque M6 fasteners to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
while maintaining a clockwise twisting force on the cam bearing cap.
6. Repeat steps 2 through 4 for cam bearing caps L3, L4, L5, R2, R3, R4, R5 and R6.
POLICY:
Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Operation
No:
FAILURE CODE:
52 Improperly Machined
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 25 Apr 2004, 11:26 pm
rszappa1 rszappa1 is offline
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Location: louisville, kentucky, USA.
Posts: 658
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Did you say replaced the bearing caps?? The TSB talks about filing down the exsisting caps. Which did you have done?
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 26 Apr 2004, 11:33 am
wsd0836 wsd0836 is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: High Point, NC, USA.
Posts: 21
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They told me the caps were replaced. I'll have to take their word for it. I have no other way of verifying.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 04 May 2004, 11:18 pm
Graphite PT Graphite PT is offline
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Location: .
Posts: 9
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Very interesting. I just came across this thread while doing a search for "lifter noise". My 2004 non-turbo does this as well. Exactly as described. Engine cold and while warming up. Once it's at temp, the sound is gone. Interesting thing is, it doesn't happen every time which I really don't understand. When it does, it's very noticeable and annoying to say the least. At least I know what it is now. This is my fourth Cruiser and I don't recall this problem with the others (at least I didn't hear it).
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 13 Jul 2005, 03:40 pm
cvernier cvernier is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Houston, Texas, USA.
Posts: 1
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Hello Gary, I have the same problem, but the service manager at the dealer is telling me that this a normal sound in the engine. Can you please let me know where did you take your car so I can contact them and have them talk to the service manager at my dealership? The dealer ship I'm dealing with is call Allen Samuels Auto Group in Katy, Texas.
Regards,
Carlos


Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Gary04GT

My talk with the General Sales Manager at the dealership today was successful! He took back my defective car and next Wednesday I will be taking delivery of a new replacement vehicle--2004 PT Cruiser GT Turbo (220hp/auto-stick) in a new color--Seamist Green--a bright metallic blue-green. [8D]
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 13 Jul 2005, 07:56 pm
Gary04GT Gary04GT is offline
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Welcome to the forum, cvernier. You have mail.
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