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your fix still working??
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It should because it is similar to the original configuration. Instead of the factory clamp, it has a hose clamp. All I did was to push the hose forward and install a clamp right behind the old one and tighten it securely. The fitting that the hose is clamped to has a ridge at the aft end pointing toward the back of the car. so baring a cracked hose or fitting installing a hose clamp there should be 4.0. macster
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Don\'t help me Help the bear Patriot Blue PTGT, Stage1, K&N Typhoon, 2.5\" Cat back exhaust, Sun Hyperground, Sun HOT INZAMA Hyper Voltage system, Adams Uppipe |
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Well after cleaning the car off from last nights dumping of snow here in PA, I head to my brothers to fix my tranny leak. Bro moves his clean GT out into the drive and lets me in the garage. Well first thing the jack that I used to lower my GT would not go under the car! Well it did when we lowered it, ahhh wait I did the front first, then the rear so it fits in the rear not the front, Bro saves the day another jack. Get it up in the air and really take a look at it with the trouble light, no problem, piece of cake, heheheheh,(Bro only snickers, as he has done this) are those little spring clamps a piece of sh*t or what? Well I started on the driverÂ’s side, worked the spring clam back, put the worm clamp on, and then think now what? Asked Bro and he used pliers and pliers and bent the sh*t clamp apart and took them off. Well by this time I am wet from melting snow and salt and say no, I am not messing with that spring steel clamp. I made sure worm clamp was right and then slid the spring clamp right next to it. I did this on both. I figure if I ever need to get there again it will be for a broken hose or major repair, either way the spring clamp is gone. I was scared to death driving in this snow, and worrying if I would hit a snow rut and pull these off. Trust me they are both VERY loose and it would not take much for this to happen in a lowered car. DC should be shot on this one, it is a FUBAR waiting to happen, and if you look around down there you see they used worm clamps on other hoses. At any rate, PITA to do on the ground. Also noticed the drivers side fluid is white (power steering?), and passenger side red (transmission?).
I would hope all of you check them!!!!!! I remember someone saying it may be from stress of S1? Any "strait" GT's had this issue?
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The recipe for perpetual ignorance is: be satisfied with your opinions and content with your knowledge. Elbert Hubbard (1856 - 1915) 2003 Electric Blue GT-30,000 Miles on the clock Stage 1, Greddy Profec II B. Turbo Chargers Wastegate set to 13#. Forge Motors BOV (Blue of course). Brand AMX Intake/AirCooler Pipes/K&N Cone with Snorkel to Fender well, MSD Coil, Live Wires(Blue of course), Factory rear sway bar, KYB struts and shocks, BTG strut tower brace, Suspension Techniques 1.3\" F/R lowering springs, ATP 3” down pipe with high flow cat, BTG axle back exhaust, Rear Spoiler. Russel Brake Lines/Hawk Brake Pads/Power Slot Cyro Rotors on a four corners Support Your Right to Arm Bears
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DXXX. I only looked at the one that was one the drivers side.[xx(] What I'm getting from this is that there are two places that have the leaks, man that sucks. Where is the one on the passenger side located, what is it near? Okay I found it (thank you thank you MAG light company for saving these old eyes) I have the factory hose clamp on mine (the one that looks like an O with an x on top) and it is tight. It looks like that one can be changed without jacking the car up. The one that I changed is located on the drivers side of the radiator and had a different type of clamp on it. Thanks for the info. As for jacking the car. Due to the fact that I'm lowered I always start with the factory jack and then switch to the 4 ton jack. When I let it down I have to lower the 4 ton jack down to the factory jack, then move the 4 ton jack out of the way, and finish lowering the car down with the factory jack what a pain!! macster
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Don\'t help me Help the bear Patriot Blue PTGT, Stage1, K&N Typhoon, 2.5\" Cat back exhaust, Sun Hyperground, Sun HOT INZAMA Hyper Voltage system, Adams Uppipe |
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"What's will all these freakin' chalk-marks all over our cars"
aren't chalk marks under the car as it goes doen the assembly line?? |
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Macster,
I am not sure if the passenger side is a "known or reported" leak. I know I pulled on mine, slightly, it pulled out, slightly. It had the same clamp as the drivers side, that WAS leaking, slightly. As I said the drivers is clear, and I (hate this word) assume, is power stearing, and the passenger side was red. Just been to lazy to grab the manual (thanks e-bay and GOD, 65.00 for the whole set,all 5 manuals)and look it up. If your clamps are not the same and you trust the "red" one, let it go, mine were both the same, one leaking, one loose, slightly. It only made sense to me, but as I said not sure if the "red" one has ever leaked for anyone, and like I asked is anyone WITHOUT S1 having this(these)problem(s)?
__________________
The recipe for perpetual ignorance is: be satisfied with your opinions and content with your knowledge. Elbert Hubbard (1856 - 1915) 2003 Electric Blue GT-30,000 Miles on the clock Stage 1, Greddy Profec II B. Turbo Chargers Wastegate set to 13#. Forge Motors BOV (Blue of course). Brand AMX Intake/AirCooler Pipes/K&N Cone with Snorkel to Fender well, MSD Coil, Live Wires(Blue of course), Factory rear sway bar, KYB struts and shocks, BTG strut tower brace, Suspension Techniques 1.3\" F/R lowering springs, ATP 3” down pipe with high flow cat, BTG axle back exhaust, Rear Spoiler. Russel Brake Lines/Hawk Brake Pads/Power Slot Cyro Rotors on a four corners Support Your Right to Arm Bears
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Bobs,
I noticed it too! We must spend way too much time under our cars.
__________________
The recipe for perpetual ignorance is: be satisfied with your opinions and content with your knowledge. Elbert Hubbard (1856 - 1915) 2003 Electric Blue GT-30,000 Miles on the clock Stage 1, Greddy Profec II B. Turbo Chargers Wastegate set to 13#. Forge Motors BOV (Blue of course). Brand AMX Intake/AirCooler Pipes/K&N Cone with Snorkel to Fender well, MSD Coil, Live Wires(Blue of course), Factory rear sway bar, KYB struts and shocks, BTG strut tower brace, Suspension Techniques 1.3\" F/R lowering springs, ATP 3” down pipe with high flow cat, BTG axle back exhaust, Rear Spoiler. Russel Brake Lines/Hawk Brake Pads/Power Slot Cyro Rotors on a four corners Support Your Right to Arm Bears
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Quote:
Assembly instuctions, Messages from a higher intelligence, Reminders that its a good thing that we do our owm maintence. macster
__________________
Don\'t help me Help the bear Patriot Blue PTGT, Stage1, K&N Typhoon, 2.5\" Cat back exhaust, Sun Hyperground, Sun HOT INZAMA Hyper Voltage system, Adams Uppipe |
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