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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 22 Apr 2012, 09:36 am
jwlast's Avatar
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Default Turbo HO upgrades

Good info in this thread on upgrades. New to the PT Cruiser thing, got an 04 GT tubo HO. Its bone stock.

So if I was looking to do performance upgrades w/o taking the heads off, can anybody summarize what would be the best route to go; new BOV, CAI, etc, etc, etc.

Gonna do it all at once if I canget a good parts list together, then get it up on the dyno.

Thanks

JT
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Old 22 Apr 2012, 11:24 am
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Default Re: Turbo HO upgrades

skip the BOV unless you like to spend money on a noise maker. Skip the CAI also and do the OEM air box mod instead for free.
we need more info on your car to give you suggestions. model, year, atx/mtx
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 22 Apr 2012, 12:02 pm
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Default Re: Turbo HO upgrades

04, automatic, GT turbo HO.

Thanks
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Old 22 Apr 2012, 09:47 pm
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Talking Re: Turbo HO upgrades

Go with the airbox mod for starters, if u want a BOV just for the noise and to keep ur turbo from spooling backwards just get the mopar blow off valve plate it'll give ur pt a nice whooshing sound when u let off the throttle. Since urs is an automatic I'd look into the mopar stage 1 PCM it'll give u a lot more HO be torque and also upgrade ur tranny software so u have better shifts. After that is get a performance exhaust or a downpipe with a cutout. Then get hardpipes forvur intercooler and airbox. Boost guages and wideband guages are always good as well. And after all that if u want serious power get a diablo sport tuner and increase the boost on ur car. any questions feel free to PM me.
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Purple 2005 PT GT ATX w/ Mopar stage 1 PCM, Diablosport 93 oct tune, airbox mod, K&N drop in filter, Mopar BOV, AGP wastegate (8 psi spring), Custom made stage 1 camshafts, motor mount inserts, NGK Iridium plugs, MSD wires, ARP Head Studs, Gates Racing Timing Belt, AC Delete kit, purple painted Valve cover, Rebuilt (stock) Turbo , AEM Boost, Oil Pressure, and Wideband guages, triple guage A pillar pod, Strut Tower brace, Needswings 3in o2 housing, 3in downpipe w/ high flow cat and electric cutout, 2.5in Magnaflow catback, custom check valve, custom larger capacity trans cooler w/ built in cooling fan, Eibachs pro lowering springs, KYP front and rear struts, matte black hood and grille, gloss black stock SRT neon rims, purple lug nuts, blacked out tailights and reflectors so far. Built and bored out motor, AGP S256 turbo, ported cylinder head, and built trans soon to come.

Last edited by NicksCruiser; 22 Apr 2012 at 09:49 pm.
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Old 22 Apr 2012, 09:54 pm
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Default Re: Turbo HO upgrades

Before you begin modding your vehicle do know that this is NOT a cheap hobby. Many spend tens of thousands of dollars.
With that said..what do you want to achieve with your mods (increased performance, cosmetic, etc.)?
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Old 22 Apr 2012, 11:08 pm
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Default Re: Turbo HO upgrades

I am not convinced the stock box is better, there are so
Many different designs out there. I was told that some guy on some website somewhere dynoed a gt, not sure of the year, but the modded stock
Box was better, not sure which brand it went up against though.

Anyone have this info?
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Old 22 Apr 2012, 11:17 pm
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Default Re: Turbo HO upgrades

Typically for a PT Cruiser (or any car for that matter) we always recommend your standard bolt-ons.

1. First and foremost, is your airbox mod. This consists of simply modifying the stock airbox and dropping in a K&N filter. Why? It's cheap, it's a true cold-air intake, and it's proven. I will not go into detail about this one, a simple search will bring up a how-to.

As for myself, I went with the K&N FIPK intake. I didn't know better at first, but guess what? I kept it the entire time and I pulled amazing numbers with all the work I had done to my car.


2. Next for a turbo car is exhaust upgrades. A PT Cruiser Turbo from the factory comes with 2 1/4" piping all the way back. Don't take offense to this but I don't see you doing a big turbo upgrade at all (not for awhile at least) so if you wanted to completely upgrade your exhaust, I'd say 2 1/2" all the way back will suffice.

The biggest bottle-necks in the PT's exhaust system is; the exhaust manifold's elbow and manifold itself, they benefit from a port job and elbow replacement for something of bigger diameter; the stock o2 housing; the CAT on your downpipe; and your stock muffler.

Unless you're trying to get the most performance out of your car, most just go with a catback system and a 3" downpipe.

On my PT I had; ported and elbow-modded exhaust manifold, stock turbo ported out with a bigger 16g wheel, maxx fabs 3" o2 housing, 3" catless srt4 downpipe (same for PT, except the srt4 pipe is 3" shorter), 2 1/2" piping all the way back and through a Magnaflow inline resonator. Do NOT get a glasspack!

3a. After those two are done, you can focus back on intake again. 2005 and above PT Turbo's had what's called a composite upper and lower intake manifold. Long story short, it flows better than the aluminum intake and provides up to 10hp. It's very easy to swap out and consists of the upper intake manifold, lower intake manifold, 5 bolts for the upper, 2 bolts for the upper to rear bracket, and 5 for the lower. No gaskets are needed since the upper intake manifold will have these o-ring rubber seals. Some people prefer to replace their dipstick tube for the newer updated one (only like 12 bucks) but I had a pain in the ass trying to remove mine and ended up breaking it. What I suggest is just using a tiny L-shape bracket to bolt in the existing dipstick tube to the new intake manifold; your choice.

3b. Also, seeing as how you'll have the intake manifold off, this would be the best time to upgrade your spark plugs to either NGK Copper or Iridium plugs gapped slightly lower than stock (part # for copper are 4306, I gapped them at .032). Also, replace the wires with some Taylor's or Granetelli's. Do not replace the coil pack.

*This next bit is for 2003-only owners that are going to either install a Stage 1 OR Diablosport OR BOTH. Since the upper/lower intake manifold is now off, it is the best time to replace those crappy 527cc injectors (pink) with 2004+ 577cc injectors (black with blue or brown ring).*

Now that bolt-ons are done we can talk a little more about tuning.

4. For awhile, Mopar offered what was called a Stage 1. It consisted of a PCM with a more aggressive tune that yielded up to a 20hp+ increase (don't quote me, but the difference is significant).

No, these are not available NEW anymore so you'll have to look on the used market IE forums/ebay/etc.

Once you find one that matches YOUR year AND transmission type, you will need it flashed to your vin. Should cost no more than $40 bucks unless you have a friend at a Dodge/Jeep/Chrysler dealership that has and knows how to use a DRBScantool like I did

Replacing the PCM is as easy as undoing a couple of screws and plugging in 4 harnesses to their designated spots; easy as that.

A side note about Stage 1 is, for automatic transmissions, Stage 1 offers improved shifting characteristics that no other add-on/pcm/etc. can replicate. For the manual/5-speed guys, we normally recommend a hand-held tuner such as Diablosport because it's cheaper and easier to find rather than a Stage 1.

I saw that you mentioned a BOV so, let's touch that for a second.

5. A BOV is not required. In fact, a BOV isn't recommended unless you are effectively pushing more boost than stock levels...somewhere around 15+psi. This is not a rule, merely a guideline.

When you hit the gas, and your turbo spools, compressed air is forced (hence the term forced-induction) through your pipes/intercooler and to your throttle body. When you let off the gas, meaning when your throttle body blade is closed, this compressed air has nowhere to suddenly go. What happens? It surges/recirculates back.....yes back through those same pipes, all the way back to your turbo even which causes that 'flutter' some of you have heard.

A way to combat this is by venting this air out, long before it even reaches the turbo.

A blow-off valve helps to do this. Now, onto mounting options;

Some would argue to say that it's best to mount the BOV nearest the turbo. Would I do it? Sure!

Others mount it closest to the throttle body. Would I do that? Yep, did it in the PT.

Is there a real wrong way about this? Not really. There are plenty of high horse-powered cars that have their BOV's close to the throttle body and it's never been an issue. What matters is effectively venting that air out before it reaches back to your turbo.

Some people on here seem to be confused by 'cold pipes' and 'hot pipes'. If you understand how this air circulates before reaching your heads/intake manifold, you'll know what the cold and hot pipes are.

It goes; intake->turbo->hot pipe->intercooler->cold pipe->throttle body->intake manifold.

Now that that's been broken down in laments terms, you can see why most people choose to mount their BOV on their cold pipe; convenience. There's not much room to work under the PT and mount a BOV, but it can and has been done before. Some of us simply chose to install it on our cold pipe because it was easier/quicker to do.

A small reminder; make sure to get a flange that of the same type of metal as the pipe you're going to weld it on IE aluminum flange for aluminum pipe or steel flange for steel pipe.
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Old 22 Apr 2012, 11:20 pm
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Default Re: Turbo HO upgrades

PS After everything I had stated above, I forgot the three most single important pieces of information I can pass on (the first 2 apply to those doing any mods, the 3rd always applies) -

1. INSTALL A BOOST/VAC GAUGE!

2. INSTALL A WIDEBAND!

3. Automatics, DO NOT BOOST IN 4TH (overdrive) GEAR!
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Old 22 Apr 2012, 11:33 pm
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Default Re: Turbo HO upgrades

Btw, if you do what I did and install a bunch of parts at once...you'll be like me and have small piles of stuff

Here are some pics -

Here, I bought both the FIPK system and the drop-in filter and did the airbox mod; I chose to keep the FIPK and gave away the airbox+filter to a forum member.





I had a 2003, so I took this crap out. As you can see, those are the pink injectors I mentioned up above.



And here is the upper+lower composite intake manifold as well as my 3" catless downpipe and 3" o2 housing.

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Last edited by Kawizx9r; 22 Apr 2012 at 11:42 pm.
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Old 22 Apr 2012, 11:40 pm
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Default Re: Turbo HO upgrades

Here, you'll see the difference between the stock housing and 3" housing -



Here's the other restriction, the elbow on the manifold -



and the result of pulling out other stock crap lol



The 2 most important monitoring tools, boost/vac and wideband gauges -



The handheld tuner and Stage 1 with other crap -





The 3-bar MAP and TIP sensors to properly utilize/measure higher boost numbers -



And of course, a VERY important tool! A boost leak tester, here I was testing the system for leaks...something you'll want to do before/after mods and anytime you feel a power-loss.

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