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With drilled rotors you are also losing braking surface area and most race cars increase the size of the rotor to compensate for the loss of surface area. You are not going to gain anything by installing stock size cross drilled rotors on your street car and for the track(road track/autoX) I would guarantee they will warp and/or crack. For drag maybe since you are reducing weight but that is very minimal and you will lose stopping distance. If you want to increase your braking capabilities then save your money and buy a brake conversion that includes larger diameter/width rotors and calipers with larger or multiple pistons to increase brake force. The S.S. brake lines do work better since they do not expand and allow a more force to be applied to the brakes and I would do this before going to the drilled rotors. The cross drilled/slotted rotors will also wear your pads much more quickly and increase the brake dust problem everyone complains about. I have to admit that our cruisers could use better brakes!
Just my 2c worth. ![]() |
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It is very similar to an ice skate. The friction (heat) from the blade over the ice causes the ice under the blade to melt. Skaters are actually gliding on a thin sheet of water, similar to the gas in the braking scenario.
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Marc 2003 PT Cruiser GT Turbo, Silver 1985 Dodge Omni GLH Turbo 16V, Black http://connect.to/YBT |
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[/quote]
I think that you are missing the point of Cross Drilled and Fire Slotted (also called Gas Slotted) rotors. The purpose of cutting the holes and slots are to INCREASE the contact between the pad and the rotor. When you brake, gas is released from the brake pads when they heat up. This gas creates that is released keeps the pad from contacting the surface of the rotor and it appears that your brakes are "fading" when they are actually "gliding" on the gases. The cross drilling and slotting remove the gases from between the pads and rotors to provide a better direct contact between the rotor and the pad. It is very similar to an ice skate. The friction (heat) from the blade over the ice causes the ice under the blade to melt. Skaters are actually gliding on a thin sheet of water, similar to the gas in the braking scenario. [/quote] I am not missing anything + your not increasing anything, you still lose contact surface area and if you know how to brake then you do not need cross drilled rotors especially for the street. To each his own. |
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But, given the exact same size rotor, you can increase the fade resistance of the brakes (and hence increase the braking power over time) using cross drilled/fire slotted rotors which removes the gases between the pad and rotor to increase the surface area contact. When your brakes start to fade, you are approaching zero surface area contact because the pads cannot contact the rotor surface because of the gas between the pad and rotor. Now, if you remove the gases from that scenario (which cross drilling and fire slotting do), then you will have surface contact with the rotor. It is my contention that some contact > zero contact under extreme braking. Knowing how to brake has nothing to do with the fade resistance of your braking system. Fade resistance has everything to do with the disapation of the heat and the gases. Granted, most of us won't ever approach that fade point on the street or even drag racing but it doesn't change the theory behind how and why it works. *Edit* Here is a link which partially explains the slotting. Check out the first paragraph. http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...wer+Slot+Rotor
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Marc 2003 PT Cruiser GT Turbo, Silver 1985 Dodge Omni GLH Turbo 16V, Black http://connect.to/YBT |
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Like I said in my first post ran them 50,000 miles no warp, no cracks, and way less dust because of the pad compasition I put on.
I will run them when Power Slot makes them. Those are what I had. Again guys, just opnions and I try to stick to companys and items I have run in the past. I know them and EBC pads will be night and day on these cars.
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The recipe for perpetual ignorance is: be satisfied with your opinions and content with your knowledge. Elbert Hubbard (1856 - 1915) 2003 Electric Blue GT-30,000 Miles on the clock Stage 1, Greddy Profec II B. Turbo Chargers Wastegate set to 13#. Forge Motors BOV (Blue of course). Brand AMX Intake/AirCooler Pipes/K&N Cone with Snorkel to Fender well, MSD Coil, Live Wires(Blue of course), Factory rear sway bar, KYB struts and shocks, BTG strut tower brace, Suspension Techniques 1.3\" F/R lowering springs, ATP 3” down pipe with high flow cat, BTG axle back exhaust, Rear Spoiler. Russel Brake Lines/Hawk Brake Pads/Power Slot Cyro Rotors on a four corners Support Your Right to Arm Bears
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Fair enough... to each his own. My concern is that you are spreading false information regarding the reasoning behind cross drilling and fire slotting. [/quote]My concern is that you are spreading inaccurate information! Do all race cars have slotted or cross drilled rotors. If this gassing was such a dangerous braking problem then all rotors would be treated in this manner. Hoop La! |
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