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good starting place for HP?

 
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Old 22 Feb 2004, 02:38 am
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Default good starting place for HP?

i wont to start adding HP to my 2004 PT Turbo but i am not sure as to where to start at. the Cruiser is still stock and i have been reading a lot about it but i am just not sure.[:I]
i was thinking that i would put HI-PO coil, ingition, spark plugs, and wires on it. that would give me some added HP and a bit better fuel milage (witch is always nice). but does anyone have a better idea?

Gothic Gentilman
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Old 22 Feb 2004, 09:31 am
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Save your money on the ignition stuff and go directly to Stage 1. You won't find a better bang for the buck. It lists for around $400 but can be purchased in the low $300's. Some on this site are even reporting more MPG after the install. A Stage 1 car will blow the doors off your stock Turbo and ignition upgrade

Deen

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77 Blown Vette-runs 10\'s @ 136 MPH.
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Old 22 Feb 2004, 01:47 pm
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Go read past posts do all the free stuff like taking the rubber thing out by the hood for cheap cowl induction, take out all the silencers on the intake until you buy an aftermarket one, stage one is a good buy, boost controllers are good.. I wouldn't go cheap though if you are going to keep your car for a while why go with a cheap manual boost controller when you can get an electronic one that will help from spikes and it is tunable inside the car to exact psi it also has onboard gauges on it (I like Apex but look around)..Later when your tires wear out or you want to go with 40 series tires I felt a nice difference on just doing that.. You are at a good point because you can read up on what others have done that works and doesn't work..

ADAM
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Old 22 Feb 2004, 03:03 pm
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I would install the amx1397 turbo to air box pipe and remove the silencers. Add a 3" CAT/ down pipe assembly into the stock exhaust with a BTG straight through muffler or BTG duels. I would also recommend a boost gauge. This will set the stage for SII.

Then patiently wait for STAGE II!

While your waiting for stage II lower it and put some bars on it.

Then consider a stoptech brake upgrade kit.

If you can not wait for SII get an mbc or ebc +/or SI and add a DSABC. It would be nice if we had an adj. WGA available as this would really help with SI and a mbc/ebc. scottmech is getting 267hp and 304ftlbs on his sr-4 with this set up, but, he is using a agp adj. WGA.

Just some thoughts.
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Old 22 Feb 2004, 04:19 pm
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thanks for the info. it sounds like S1 with a 2.5"-3" exhaust pipe is a good start i think that i will get a blow off valve to extend the life of the turbo as well. kill the silencer off and get a boost gauge\controller.
thanks again and if anyone still has some other good ideas or just something to add i would ike to hear it

Gothic Gentilman
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Old 23 Feb 2004, 03:50 am
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No need for a new BOV for turbo longevity. The stock SVA already does the BOV work. The Mopar BOV only redirects the output from SVA to the air - it's only a noise maker for the SVA. The only reason for an aftermarket one is if you're having problems with the stock unit leaking boost, you're running really high boost, or you want the sound of aftermarket BOV.

I have less then $5 invested in a MBC, and I'm running a steady 14psi to redline.... you wouldn't believe the difference! []
that's a huge jump in HP basicly for free..
__________________
=========================
2003 Electric Blue GT
- Greddy E0-1, boost and AFR guages
- Custom exhaust: no muffler, side exit.
- Replaced air box with open end cone filter.
- Stage 1
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Old 23 Feb 2004, 03:17 pm
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Check this out: Stage 1, shimmed wastegate, a good exhaust of your choice, and a reasonable CAI.

Stage 1 : $400
Wastegate: $200
Exhaust: $300
CAI: $200

Cost: $1,100.00 (discounts could save $200 or more)

At least $500 less than S2 and probably much more easy to live with!
(DC wants you to get the exhaust with the S2, so add $3-500 to the $1,600 for the S2 kit!)
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Old 23 Feb 2004, 05:17 pm
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Jason_L

No need for a new BOV for turbo longevity. The stock SVA already does the BOV work. The Mopar BOV only redirects the output from SVA to the air - it's only a noise maker for the SVA. The only reason for an aftermarket one is if you're having problems with the stock unit leaking boost, you're running really high boost, or you want the sound of aftermarket BOV.

I have less then $5 invested in a MBC, and I'm running a steady 14psi to redline.... you wouldn't believe the difference! []
that's a huge jump in HP basicly for free..
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Old 23 Feb 2004, 05:22 pm
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Jason_L,sorry, I'm new at this. What's an MBC and what does it take to install?
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Jmanning843

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Jason_L

No need for a new BOV for turbo longevity. The stock SVA already does the BOV work. The Mopar BOV only redirects the output from SVA to the air - it's only a noise maker for the SVA. The only reason for an aftermarket one is if you're having problems with the stock unit leaking boost, you're running really high boost, or you want the sound of aftermarket BOV.

I have less then $5 invested in a MBC, and I'm running a steady 14psi to redline.... you wouldn't believe the difference! []
that's a huge jump in HP basicly for free..
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Old 24 Feb 2004, 12:33 am
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Jmanning843

Jason_L,sorry, I'm new at this. What's an MBC and what does it take to install?
Manual Boost Controller.. it delays the opening of the waste gate, letting the turbo build higher boost. Basicly you just splice them into the "vacuum line" (they're actually pressurized) running to the waste gate actuator.

With a MBC, you don't really need stage 1 since you have an 2004. You already have the injectors needed to get you up to 17-18 psi, which is a HUGE increase in HP. If you have a manual though, the S1 has some other shifting related logic as well.

So:
MBC: $5 - $75
intake: 100 - 200
exhaust: 300 - 500
__________________
=========================
2003 Electric Blue GT
- Greddy E0-1, boost and AFR guages
- Custom exhaust: no muffler, side exit.
- Replaced air box with open end cone filter.
- Stage 1
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