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Plugs and wires

 
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Old 08 Oct 2012, 06:16 pm
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Default Plugs and wires

Need to replace spark plug wires in DW's '05 GT.

Conflicting info: Several posters say it can be done without removing upper intake; other info maintains that it has to be removed.

Does the upper intake manifold really have to be removed to R&R plugs and wires?

Also, are NKG Iridium IX plugs worth the extra cost?

Thank you for your help.
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Old 08 Oct 2012, 06:35 pm
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Default Re: Plugs and wires

First off, I've not been able to change my plugs without loosening my intake mani. I've not removed it all the way, but some people say you can. Maybe they have a tool that works better than mine, I don't know. If you do pull the mani loose, make sure you have paper towels with you - stuff them in both the upper and lower manifold openings so that you get NO DIRT in them!

As to plugs - I'm a big fan of NGK Iridium's. I spoke to one of their Technical Managers at Autolite and he took my boost levels and horse power ratings and sent me a set of Iridiums to try out. You want to run plugs that are one step colder than the factory specs, along with plugs that take less voltage to fire. Iridiums work well for that. Now one thing to note about Iridiums - being as they run cooler than copper core plugs, they do NOT require a narrower gap than the coppers. Meaning, try starting your gap at 0.045 first. Get your car warmed up and go for a short ride, see how she runs, then let her idle for a bit and see if she's idling well. Then try gapping at 0.040 and compare it to how it ran at 0.045.

JUST MY SUGGESTIONS>>>

Now I would also suggest you go with different plug wires, especially if you're running factory wires. They are crap. With a turbo, over time and if you take it on long trips, or run on the track, you need thicker plug wires to help offset the amount of heat generated on top of the engine. Turbos generate tons of heat and reduce the life of the plug wires. I suggest to everyone to go minimum 8mm, however if you're wanting to run hot, fast, or long, then go with something like the 10.2mm Vision Motorworks plug wires. They last a long, long time and hold up very well to heat.

Personally, I like the performance of both and keep my plugs clean. I take them out once a quarter, verify gap and clean the tips and electrodes to keep them new looking and working.

Again, just my suggestions!

Here's the VM plug wires for the PT (you can get them in other colors):


Oh, also, if you do loosen up your intake mani, make DARNED CERTAIN that you torque them in the appropriate order and at the appropriate torque value, or you can damage your manifold!
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Old 09 Oct 2012, 07:59 am
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Default Re: Plugs and wires

On a turbo PT, YES, the plugs can be changed without taking off the intake manifold -IF you use a plug socket with a swivel (universal) and maybe another swivel at the wrench -
I have plastic intake, daughter & son-in-law have the aluminum intake, and I've done all 3 without removing manifold.
You NEED the swivel socket.
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Old 09 Oct 2012, 09:15 am
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Default Re: Plugs and wires

What Don said. Apparently, it's also easier on the aluminum manifold, but I personally have done the swivel method with my 06+ composite manifold due to a stripped lower nut on my manifold that won't loosen.
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Old 09 Oct 2012, 09:28 am
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Default Re: Plugs and wires

Quote:
Originally Posted by quicksilverdon View Post
On a turbo PT, YES, the plugs can be changed without taking off the intake manifold -IF you use a plug socket with a swivel (universal) and maybe another swivel at the wrench -
I have plastic intake, daughter & son-in-law have the aluminum intake, and I've done all 3 without removing manifold.
You NEED the swivel socket.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris15 View Post
What Don said. Apparently, it's also easier on the aluminum manifold, but I personally have done the swivel method with my 06+ composite manifold due to a stripped lower nut on my manifold that won't loosen.

X3------

Jerry
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Old 09 Oct 2012, 10:08 am
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Default Re: Plugs and wires

I've added a few pieces to the Craftsman "kit" so I can use a swivel as has been mentioned and I also have a couple of 3/8" extensions in which the square drive on the end is barrel shaped instead of parellel. They are able to cant over about 5 degrees which is just enough to juke under the manifold.

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