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Super Stocker WGA install (long)


 
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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 09 Mar 2004, 12:10 am
brngrhd brngrhd is offline
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you may have cooked a plug no big deal i don't think that 28 psi of boost for a split second hurt anything. but be careful. that is why i work up to it a little slower when i do these things. good thing you had and watched your boost gauge.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 09 Mar 2004, 09:28 am
sakigt sakigt is offline
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If I wasnt considering Stage II Id be all over it. Nice mod! Your boost spike, while not good, shouldnt cause to much damage...might as well upgrade the plugs
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 09 Mar 2004, 10:36 am
TripleJackInGA TripleJackInGA is offline
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I kinda had visions of that commercial with Dennis leary where the engine comes flying out of the Suburban.

NOTE TO SELF: When installing mods without directions, CALL FIRST.

Sometimes it sucks being the guinea pig, rice.

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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 09 Mar 2004, 01:31 pm
Cal Cruzer Cal Cruzer is offline
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Just curious, did they say why to hook up the vacuum to the other soure? I mean if they are shimming these to open at 12# or whatever, they should do the job no matter where they are hooked up. Sounds to me like they may have blown it on that one.
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 09 Mar 2004, 01:34 pm
Jason_L Jason_L is offline
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Maybe most of my posts related to this have been on the srt forums? you need to bypass the WGA solenoid when changing your boost.

The pcm cycles the solenoid open/close to maintain a set boost curve (and utlitamtely a set torque level). The ECU is adaptive, ie it learns and adjusts itself based on a buffer and previous data it has aquired. Change your WGA, add a MBC, etc., and you've thrown all it's logic off since the current conditions no longer match those the ECU used to set itself. It thinks it's working with a 5psi WGA, but now it has a 15 psi one - you can imagine how this would throw everything off. If you keep the solenoid hooked up and just adjust your MBC or WGA around it, you're settings will not be accurate nor consistent - not by a long shot. The ECU will open the WGA earlier and earlier as it tries to readjust itself, until eventually it will just be open all the time if you've set the boost high enough. At this point your boost may have droppped considerably, down from what you thought you had it set to, to what you ACTUALLY had it set to minus ECU interference.

You really need to bypass that solenoid and cut the ECU's interference off at the knees whenever you start playing with the boost. Yes, you will get part throttle / full boost from our fast spooling turbos - the only way really around it is a 2 stage set-up. Keep in mind, you can not get your boost lower then your WGA - so an aftermarket WGA set for 15 psi will give you part throttle boost to 15psi (plus a dual stage BC will not be able to be set lower then that 15psi either). The best set-up in my opinion is to use a 2 stage set-up. stage 1 for daily driving, stage 2 for high boost, triggered via a throttle switch. It only requires 1 MBC, a solenoid, and throttle switch.
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2003 Electric Blue GT
- Greddy E0-1, boost and AFR guages
- Custom exhaust: no muffler, side exit.
- Replaced air box with open end cone filter.
- Stage 1
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09 Mar 2004, 05:39 pm
Cal Cruzer Cal Cruzer is offline
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Jason_L

Maybe most of my posts related to this have been on the srt forums? you need to bypass the WGA solenoid when changing your boost.

The pcm cycles the solenoid open/close to maintain a set boost curve (and utlitamtely a set torque level). The ECU is adaptive, ie it learns and adjusts itself based on a buffer and previous data it has aquired. Change your WGA, add a MBC, etc., and you've thrown all it's logic off since the current conditions no longer match those the ECU used to set itself. It thinks it's working with a 5psi WGA, but now it has a 15 psi one - you can imagine how this would throw everything off. If you keep the solenoid hooked up and just adjust your MBC or WGA around it, you're settings will not be accurate nor consistent - not by a long shot. The ECU will open the WGA earlier and earlier as it tries to readjust itself, until eventually it will just be open all the time if you've set the boost high enough. At this point your boost may have droppped considerably, down from what you thought you had it set to, to what you ACTUALLY had it set to minus ECU interference.

You really need to bypass that solenoid and cut the ECU's interference off at the knees whenever you start playing with the boost. Yes, you will get part throttle / full boost from our fast spooling turbos - the only way really around it is a 2 stage set-up. Keep in mind, you can not get your boost lower then your WGA - so an aftermarket WGA set for 15 psi will give you part throttle boost to 15psi (plus a dual stage BC will not be able to be set lower then that 15psi either). The best set-up in my opinion is to use a 2 stage set-up. stage 1 for daily driving, stage 2 for high boost, triggered via a throttle switch. It only requires 1 MBC, a solenoid, and throttle switch.
HI Jason,
Makes sense. I really haven't followed a lot of the threads on this because I was thinking of doing the Stage 2 mod. I mean if I am going to throuw away my warranty I might as well get the most out of it. I would just like to know when it will be here for the PT.

Anyhow, if I decide to go the MBC route I will have to study up on the applications.

thanks for you input.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09 Mar 2004, 05:50 pm
rice_killing_GT rice_killing_GT is offline
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Cal Cruzer

Just curious, did they say why to hook up the vacuum to the other soure? I mean if they are shimming these to open at 12# or whatever, they should do the job no matter where they are hooked up. Sounds to me like they may have blown it on that one.
Yeah, basically what Jason posted but not in so much detail.
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\'03 Electric Blue GT, silencers removed, K&N intake, Blanes Hood Struts, Emblems removed from rear hatch, Stage 1, Mopar BOV, Eibach springs, 18x8 Mille Miglia EV-R on 225/40/18 BFG g-Force T/A KDW 2, Eibach sway kit F&R, BTG Strut Bar, Chrome fuel door, custom 3\" cat-back exhaust with Magnaflow High-flow muffler, Blitz Dual Turbo Timer, Autometer Triple gauge pod, Autometer Ultra-lite with boost/vac, oil press and water temp gauges, Turbochargers.com wastegate, turboxs DSBC, Adams UCP, Dynoworks motor mounts with more to come.....
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10 Mar 2004, 12:40 am
Jason_L Jason_L is offline
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they should have explained it though, considering it was a pt specific application... turbochargers.com has some neat stuff though
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=========================
2003 Electric Blue GT
- Greddy E0-1, boost and AFR guages
- Custom exhaust: no muffler, side exit.
- Replaced air box with open end cone filter.
- Stage 1
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 12 Mar 2004, 05:22 pm
rice_killing_GT rice_killing_GT is offline
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UPDATE....

My NGK plugs arrived and finally put them in last night. The #4 plug was fouled, so I know for sure that was the problem with my idle. Decided to install a Screamin Demon coil and Livewires since I was going to change the plugs might as well do this also. Took off upper intake manifold just so it would be easier to work on. Now that I re-did my vacuum lines I can get true test drive with the WG. WWWWOOOOOWWWWWWW!!!!!!!! Took it easy this time, then gradually took the rpms higher made one WOT blast and OMG this things a beast now. At part throttle the boost gauge jumps to about 7psi and just climbs from there. My only WOT run I had a quick spike to 17psi and dropped to 15psi and held there till redline [8)] I have to get use to driving this thing with so much boost at part throttle. Will probably take it to the dyno in a couple weeks.

All I can say about the turbochargers wastegate is [:X]
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\'03 Electric Blue GT, silencers removed, K&N intake, Blanes Hood Struts, Emblems removed from rear hatch, Stage 1, Mopar BOV, Eibach springs, 18x8 Mille Miglia EV-R on 225/40/18 BFG g-Force T/A KDW 2, Eibach sway kit F&R, BTG Strut Bar, Chrome fuel door, custom 3\" cat-back exhaust with Magnaflow High-flow muffler, Blitz Dual Turbo Timer, Autometer Triple gauge pod, Autometer Ultra-lite with boost/vac, oil press and water temp gauges, Turbochargers.com wastegate, turboxs DSBC, Adams UCP, Dynoworks motor mounts with more to come.....
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 12 Mar 2004, 06:29 pm
Jason_L Jason_L is offline
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I run 15 to redline too - pretty wicked eh?
what boost do you see at part throttle around 3-3.5k?
You wanna be carefull around there as your car will want to boost straight to 15, and if you aren't WOT you'll be running way way lean. I held it at around 3500 rpm for a few seconds part throttle and I got mad compressor surge, the car went into convulsions from the various PCM cut-outs, it snap/crackle/popped, etc.. It actually didn't do this until I put my new exhaust on - the combination of quicker spooling and leaning out the AFR had a big effect (and I'm not stage 1). It's definately time for me to upgrade my fuel system (FPR, return line, eManage). then it's hopefully 20 to redline
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=========================
2003 Electric Blue GT
- Greddy E0-1, boost and AFR guages
- Custom exhaust: no muffler, side exit.
- Replaced air box with open end cone filter.
- Stage 1
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