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Cheap downpipes

 
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Old 08 Apr 2004, 01:26 pm
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Default Cheap downpipes

saw this on the srt forum the other day:
http://srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44109

some have commented on it not having a flex section in it, but does the stock have one?
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Old 09 Apr 2004, 08:43 am
LAF LAF is offline
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YES and NO! The stock down and cat have a rotating joint in it to give the movement of a flex pipe. You will get rattles and maybe break a solid pipe.
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Old 09 Apr 2004, 11:58 am
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by LAF

YES and NO! The stock down and cat have a rotating joint in it to give the movement of a flex pipe. You will get rattles and maybe break a solid pipe.
Is there a way to include a flex connector before or after this unit? Since the pipe is only $40 it is well worth the extra money to install some form of flex joint
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Old 10 Apr 2004, 08:20 am
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Well the flex would have to be first. And that would mean it would have to have the flange on it to bolt to the O2 pipe. I am not sure how you would do this. ATP has the flex, but they use a V clamp system. Even though it is on the cheap would you want it that way? the ATP will run you 300.00 or so and that is with high flow cat, down pipe and flex with flange.
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The recipe for perpetual ignorance is: be satisfied with your opinions and content with your knowledge.
Elbert Hubbard (1856 - 1915)

2003 Electric Blue GT-30,000 Miles on the clock
Stage 1, Greddy Profec II B. Turbo Chargers Wastegate set to 13#. Forge Motors BOV (Blue of course). Brand AMX Intake/AirCooler Pipes/K&N Cone with Snorkel to Fender well, MSD Coil, Live Wires(Blue of course), Factory rear sway bar, KYB struts and shocks, BTG strut tower brace, Suspension Techniques 1.3\" F/R lowering springs, ATP 3 down pipe with high flow cat, BTG axle back exhaust, Rear Spoiler. Russel Brake Lines/Hawk Brake Pads/Power Slot Cyro Rotors on a four corners

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Old 11 Apr 2004, 01:15 am
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by LAF

...Even though it is on the cheap would you want it that way?
Thanks for the info. on the flex connector. I had pretty much determined that the flex was before the cat and or down pipe but was not certian. As for the cheap part, heck yea I want it as inexpensive as possible yet still maintain function and quality. Most times this does not happen but I am always willing to leave out the chrome. I am more interested in giving the rice burner crowd a good view of my tailights, not the pretty do dads under the hood!
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Old 13 Apr 2004, 01:20 am
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I was doing research on making a down pipe (decided not to at this time) but I found a lot of good information..

You do need the flex but it doesn't have to be before the cat as long as it is a couple feet after the engine it will work just fine..

As far as aftermarket cats there are a couple different kinds you can buy a CARB legal one for like $125 or something but in a few states like CA it also has to have another sticker on the box and those CATS are more like $250..

There is no really aftermarket CAT or a CAT that is the same as stock that will flow more.. All you do is buy a bigger one.. 3" will flow a lot more than our stock unit..

If the unit that sells for $300 comes with a California legal cat then that is a really really good deal because to put something like that together for cheaper than that yourself you would have to have the HOOK up somewhere..

If the unit that sells for $300 isn't California legal.. Then it is an OK deal.. You could get the $40 one (if it fits. I don't know I have not looked at it) and put the $125 to buy and aftermarket 3" cat from any race shop or muffler shop, buy a small flex (Not sure on price but cant be that much)..Then you would still need to pay someone to weld it all together for you.. maybe put yourself together a custom one for around $200 plus price for someone to weld it up for you... Still at that price If I didnt know a lot about cars would rather spend the extra $50-$100 and get something that is a package deal..

ADAM
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Old 13 Apr 2004, 01:38 pm
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by 03baggedturbo

I was doing research on making a down pipe (decided not to at this time) but I found a lot of good information..

You do need the flex but it doesn't have to be before the cat as long as it is a couple feet after the engine it will work just fine..


ADAM
Adam, placing a flex joint immediately after the solid downpipe would be an easy garage level solution. As I stated previously, if it works and works well at a reduced price I am all for it. I am going to give this venture a little more thought and possibly have at it. Besides the inconvenience of the rig breaking and needing service, does anyone think that there could be damage to the turbo or o2 sensor if the downpipe does in fact crack? I recall you can damage valves on V8 motors if you run around w/ cracks in headers due to heat.

As for the CAT...Currently Florida does not require an emmissions inspection so zooming around w/o one is not of great concern. Of course that is if I can force myself to overlook the fact that it is still technically illegal AND does nothing to enhance the environment. Then again, I can be found most clear w/e sporting about in my VW convert...yeah thats a real enviro. friendly rig
Hubert
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Old 14 Apr 2004, 02:09 am
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by 03baggedturbo

I was doing research on making a down pipe (decided not to at this time) but I found a lot of good information..

You do need the flex but it doesn't have to be before the cat as long as it is a couple feet after the engine it will work just fine..


As far as aftermarket cats there are a couple different kinds you can buy a CARB legal one for like $125 or something but in a few states like CA it also has to have another sticker on the box and those CATS are more like $250..

There is no really aftermarket CAT or a CAT that is the same as stock that will flow more.. All you do is buy a bigger one.. 3" will flow a lot more than our stock unit..

If the unit that sells for $300 comes with a California legal cat then that is a really really good deal because to put something like that together for cheaper than that yourself you would have to have the HOOK up somewhere..

If the unit that sells for $300 isn't California legal.. Then it is an OK deal.. You could get the $40 one (if it fits. I don't know I have not looked at it) and put the $125 to buy and aftermarket 3" cat from any race shop or muffler shop, buy a small flex (Not sure on price but cant be that much)..Then you would still need to pay someone to weld it all together for you.. maybe put yourself together a custom one for around $200 plus price for someone to weld it up for you... Still at that price If I didnt know a lot about cars would rather spend the extra $50-$100 and get something that is a package deal..

ADAM
Since ATP is in CA it may just well be a carb certified CAT? I am going to call. As far as price of the ATP DP you really need to take a very close look at the piece. It is an exceptionally well engineered and manufactured unit! All S.S. with flex connector and flanged for v-clamps. You can swap the CAT out and their test pipe in, in about 5 minutes. There really is not a down pipe made that even compares in quality! www.atpturbo.com (search srt-4)

Adam are you going to cruiser fest? Good place to show off your new CAI!
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Old 14 Apr 2004, 08:38 am
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Let me know how willing they are to do a 3inch turbo back system for us. When you talk to them say another girl has got cash when they say yes.
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Old 14 Apr 2004, 07:56 pm
LAF LAF is offline
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I have been running the ATP 3" for a few months now, got mine right after MexicanPT. It is a quality piece for sure. You can switch cat out in a little time thanks to the vband clamp system. I think it is the best unit on the market, or at least what I have seen. It is just awesome. It is pricey but from the O2 pipe to whatever exhaust you are going to use it is second to none.
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The recipe for perpetual ignorance is: be satisfied with your opinions and content with your knowledge.
Elbert Hubbard (1856 - 1915)

2003 Electric Blue GT-30,000 Miles on the clock
Stage 1, Greddy Profec II B. Turbo Chargers Wastegate set to 13#. Forge Motors BOV (Blue of course). Brand AMX Intake/AirCooler Pipes/K&N Cone with Snorkel to Fender well, MSD Coil, Live Wires(Blue of course), Factory rear sway bar, KYB struts and shocks, BTG strut tower brace, Suspension Techniques 1.3\" F/R lowering springs, ATP 3 down pipe with high flow cat, BTG axle back exhaust, Rear Spoiler. Russel Brake Lines/Hawk Brake Pads/Power Slot Cyro Rotors on a four corners

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