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Saying bye, bye to wheel hop

 
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Old 22 May 2004, 04:58 pm
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: W. Covina, CA, USA.
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Default Saying bye, bye to wheel hop

Going to install my phat bones motor mount from Dynoworks. here's a couple pics.





will post pics after install
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Old 22 May 2004, 05:15 pm
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Ill be more interested in hearing about the amount of ride quality lost...
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Old 22 May 2004, 10:56 pm
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by sakigt

Ill be more interested in hearing about the amount of ride quality lost...
Your worried about ride quality?
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Old 23 May 2004, 02:16 pm
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by ptgtcb

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by sakigt

Ill be more interested in hearing about the amount of ride quality lost...
Your worried about ride quality?
Doesnt seem that way does it Ive forgotten what its like to ride stock. I need to borrow a stock GT sometime to see how bad mine is...
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Old 23 May 2004, 05:05 pm
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I posted this on the other forums also

Phat Bones Motor Mounts install How To:

Tools Needed

18mm Socket
18mm Ratcheting Wrench or Deep Socket
15mm Wrench
15mm Socket
10mm Socket
Socket Wrench and Extensions
BLUE Loctite Thread Locker

Step 1:

Jack up Vehicle, and Remove front passenger side wheel. Leave the vehicle on jackstands (as you'll need the jack)..

Step 2:

Remove the plastic shield protecting the bottom Torque Strut. There are (3) 10mm bolts holding it onto the frame, along with 3 push-in clips.



I broke one of the push-in clips, so becareful. After bolts and clips are remove pull out heat shield, you have to work it a little in the front for it to come out.


Pic of heatshield removed, with the lower torque strut exposed



Step 3:

Support the engine slightly by jacking underneath the forward edge of the transmission bell housing (place a block of wood ontop of the jack to protect the bell housing). Note that you'll need to "support' it, not jack the engine up. Pic from socalsrt:


Use a block of wood. Note that the picture is wrong, it looks like I'm jacking the engine up underneat the oil pan <-- DO NOT DO That.. Jack up the the forward edge of the transmission bell housing instead.

Step 4:

Remove the pencil strut, you'll need to use your 15mm Socket to remove the bolt on top and the nut on the bottom.





Step 5:

Remove the bottom Torque Strut by using your 18mm Socket on the right bolt (bolts onto the engine block torque strut anchor), and you'll need an 18mm ratcheting wrench or deep socket to remove the left bolt (frame). After removing bolts the lower Torque Strut should come right off. There's is a small pin that you'll have to remove from the lower engine block anchor (it's about 1/4" long, simply pull it out with your plier).



Pin

Pin removed


Step 6:

Place the new bottom Torque Strut, bolt it in place. Use your torque wrench to tighten down said bolts to spec. Its a good idea to use the loctite blue on the main torque strut bolt to prevent them from backing out accidentally.. Reinstall the pencil strut, then reinstall the plastic shield.



Bottom one is almost done, just need to put the accessory plastic shield back on

Step 7:

Remove the top Torque Strut is quite simple. Basically, you remove two bolts, then remove the top torque strut. Unfortunatly, for the PT we don’t have much room to get to the bolt, I used the 18mm ratcheting wrench and used a long screwdriver to help move the AC line out of the way.


Flip the top block anchor horizontally so that flat face is displayed,



Now using the instructions from the soclsrt forums it tells you to bolt the block anchor back in, but in the case of the PT and limited room I had to install the motor mount outside engine compartment, with the block anchor turned around (flat side against the phat bone) inserted the bolt and hand tightened the bolt to the block anchor. Now I placed the motor mount in and bolted the block anchor in, do not tighten yet. Install rear bolt of the mount, I used my t
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\'03 Electric Blue GT, silencers removed, K&N intake, Blanes Hood Struts, Emblems removed from rear hatch, Stage 1, Mopar BOV, Eibach springs, 18x8 Mille Miglia EV-R on 225/40/18 BFG g-Force T/A KDW 2, Eibach sway kit F&R, BTG Strut Bar, Chrome fuel door, custom 3\" cat-back exhaust with Magnaflow High-flow muffler, Blitz Dual Turbo Timer, Autometer Triple gauge pod, Autometer Ultra-lite with boost/vac, oil press and water temp gauges, Turbochargers.com wastegate, turboxs DSBC, Adams UCP, Dynoworks motor mounts with more to come.....
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Old 25 May 2004, 12:56 pm
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Great instructions![?]

I want one of those now!!!

Ian
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Old 25 May 2004, 02:27 pm
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One word BEEFY[^]
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Old 25 May 2004, 09:31 pm
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Have you had a chance to test them out yet? How much did they cost?
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Old 26 May 2004, 10:38 am
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yeah tell us how much $
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Old 26 May 2004, 11:05 am
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Haven't really had the chance to do any hard launches, vibration isn't too bad and I've noticed that my exhaust seems to be a little louder.

I got them from www.dynowork.com, the mounts were $120.00 for top and bottom and for top, bottom and tranny mount was $180.00 I believe. He didn't have any tranny mounts when I got mine so I didn't get the tranny mounts.
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\'03 Electric Blue GT, silencers removed, K&N intake, Blanes Hood Struts, Emblems removed from rear hatch, Stage 1, Mopar BOV, Eibach springs, 18x8 Mille Miglia EV-R on 225/40/18 BFG g-Force T/A KDW 2, Eibach sway kit F&R, BTG Strut Bar, Chrome fuel door, custom 3\" cat-back exhaust with Magnaflow High-flow muffler, Blitz Dual Turbo Timer, Autometer Triple gauge pod, Autometer Ultra-lite with boost/vac, oil press and water temp gauges, Turbochargers.com wastegate, turboxs DSBC, Adams UCP, Dynoworks motor mounts with more to come.....
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