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Regarding the shifter bracket. Yeah the pivot block is taller and the new bushings on the four corners raise it up as well. I didn't have any problems with the bracket reseating on the new bushings. At first I could feel the bottom of the shift lever dragging on the rubber material right below it but I wiggled the rubber around a bit and tucked it down out of the way. By retainer clips you mean the two clips that hold the two metal cable guides to the main bracket, yes? May want to check and see if you twisted the guides before you put them back in their slots. I noticed when I was trying to get those damn cilps off that the guides will turn a bit but the seem to have a "natural" point were the cable moves more freely. |
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Yes, I was refering to the retainer clips that hold the two metal cable guides to the main bracket. ATM my 2 metal cable guides don't seem to seat properly is slightly into the wells where the retainer clips are suppose to be at. I'll try and twist them around and see what happens. Any suggestions to make it fit easier??
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Not really, I was only able to get one of the clips off when I installed mine. It did give me a bit of a fit getting the guide back in the slot. The clip wasn't much better, I had to push the cable guide towards the back of the shifter and push the retainer in at the same time. It didn't pop back in all the way so I had to tap it back in with the base of a screwdriver to get it to fully seat.
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The nut is just an extra shift knob jam nut, why?
As far as the cables,I was also concerned about this. However, the cables will fit in the recess when you snap the retaining clips back in. I removed a portion of the sound deadener where the shifter was hitting. The directions recommend you just remove the whole piece. I wish I had thought about the booger bushings when I installed mine, not that it is necessary, just that I had it all a part and it would have been an easy install. Do you have to remove the console to install them? Just the fact that the shifter is more comfortable tells me it was a good investment! [8] |
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Well you don't have to take the full shifter mounting bracket off but you will have to get the center trim up enough that you can access both of the cable ends at the shifter, you also will have to pull out the factory air box and possibly the battery to get at the two cable ends on the trans. Not much to it really moving at a snails pace it shouldn't take you more than 45min to an hour. |
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[quote]Originally posted by ptgtcb
The nut is just an extra shift knob jam nut, why? Argh, now I have to go back and stick the nut on and flip the lever around. Although, I doubt the shifting won't change. To be honest, the shifting is already shortened and doubt fliping around the lever side will do anything at all. |
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After being a noobie in installing the mopar short shifter. I recorded a record breaking time in installing it: 8 hours and 30 minutes.
I never installed a short shifter in a car, but defintely can be a fustrating experience for someone who isn't quite adept in working with mechanical things. The pictures and advise does help on these boards, but certainly did require some thinking on removing and installing the parts. Other than having my shifting lever (without the nut), fliped around...... The most noticable difference is shifting to reverse, 1st to 2nd, and 4th to 5th. 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th felt quite the same as the stock shifter. I have a very tiny amount of play, but I think that's due to the stock rubber housing and husrt pivot lever not being quite the same tolerance as stock. I'm quite happy that shifting is a but faster and smoother. I did not use the booger bushings, I stuck with stock oem bushings. |
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The important thing is it's in and working! ![]() ![]() |
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Think of it this way guys... if the labor rate is say $50.00/hr Beacon saved $200.00 and PTGT Boy saved double by doing self install . I took roughly 4 hours to install B&M shifter in my old car 3 years ago. Doing it in my GT with "boogers " and with a painted console to remove took little over 2 hours last year , and that included taking pictures for myself and jeffb of the install which Beacon used /enhanced . I repair machines for a living, it always takes longer the "first" time but most of us learn by doing and get better in the long run . Besides where else can you get frustrated and satisfied @ the same time and not get paid for it ,lol !
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\'03 Electric Blue 5 speed GT, addco oversize sways,wildfire strut bar,color-matched rear muds,xenon sides/\"crusher\",mirrors,b&c pillars,both interior consoles,b&m sport shifter,autometer ultralite gauges,Mopar STG 1 ,booger shift bushings,mopar bov,AMX turbo up pipe,Prototype turbo ucp, 05 intake, map clamp |
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I received my booger shifter bushings from www.modernperformance.com which costs me $21.99 including shipping. I installed the two on the engine side today and couldn't really tell any difference (I already have the Hurst shifter installed). Maybe the two on the shifter side make more of a difference? I'm not mechanically minded so it took me far too long for the installation. I struggled with getting the large bushing onto the pin. It turns out I had it backwards. The smaller end goes closest to the pin. Had I known that it would have been much easier. I hope the other two bushings go on easy and make a noticeable difference.
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[IMG]|2003 PT GT 5-Speed | Mopar Stage 1 | Mopar 2.5\" Dual Exhaust | Mopar Short-Throw Shifter | Mopar HO Plastic Intake | Mopar Boost Gauge | AGP WGA/BOP | APC Carbon Fiber Taillights | Axis 19x8 Wheels/Yokohama 225/35ZR19 Parada Spec2 Tires | BTG Strut Tower Brace | BTG Billet Shorty Antenna | Eibach Anti-Sway Bars | HKS SSQV BOV | JLM Motor/Tranny Mounts | KW Variant 1 Coilovers | Maxxfab 3\" Downpipe | NGK Iridiums | Prototypepower UCP/CAI v5 | PTeazer Smoothie Roll Pan | Screamin\' Demon Coil/Livewires | StopTech Slotted Rotors/Hawk HPS Pads/Stainless Steel Lines | Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley|
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