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Mopar Short-Throw Shifter Installed+Picture


 
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 15 Jul 2004, 11:23 am
Beacon Beacon is offline
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by PTGT_Boy

Almost forgot, there was a nut that came with the short-shifter, however, I can't figure out what is for and don't seem to listed on the instructionson its use or installation. Anyone have a clue what its for???
hahaha, okay so it wasn't just me then. I haven't a clue either. Like you said no mention of it in the instructions nor did I come across anything while doing the install that looked like it needed it. It may be for the shoulder-bolt at the base of the shift level but I don't think mine went through far enough to get and threads on it.

Regarding the shifter bracket. Yeah the pivot block is taller and the new bushings on the four corners raise it up as well. I didn't have any problems with the bracket reseating on the new bushings. At first I could feel the bottom of the shift lever dragging on the rubber material right below it but I wiggled the rubber around a bit and tucked it down out of the way.

By retainer clips you mean the two clips that hold the two metal cable guides to the main bracket, yes? May want to check and see if you twisted the guides before you put them back in their slots. I noticed when I was trying to get those damn cilps off that the guides will turn a bit but the seem to have a "natural" point were the cable moves more freely.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 15 Jul 2004, 02:12 pm
PTGT_Boy PTGT_Boy is offline
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Yes, I was refering to the retainer clips that hold the two metal cable guides to the main bracket. ATM my 2 metal cable guides don't seem to seat properly is slightly into the wells where the retainer clips are suppose to be at. I'll try and twist them around and see what happens. Any suggestions to make it fit easier??
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 15 Jul 2004, 06:12 pm
Beacon Beacon is offline
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Not really, I was only able to get one of the clips off when I installed mine. It did give me a bit of a fit getting the guide back in the slot. The clip wasn't much better, I had to push the cable guide towards the back of the shifter and push the retainer in at the same time. It didn't pop back in all the way so I had to tap it back in with the base of a screwdriver to get it to fully seat.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 15 Jul 2004, 10:57 pm
ptgtcb ptgtcb is offline
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The nut is just an extra shift knob jam nut, why?

As far as the cables,I was also concerned about this. However, the cables will fit in the recess when you snap the retaining clips back in.
I removed a portion of the sound deadener where the shifter was hitting. The directions recommend you just remove the whole piece.

I wish I had thought about the booger bushings when I installed mine, not that it is necessary, just that I had it all a part and it would have been an easy install.
Do you have to remove the console to install them?

Just the fact that the shifter is more comfortable tells me it was a good investment!

[8]
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 16 Jul 2004, 01:00 am
Beacon Beacon is offline
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by ptgtcb

The nut is just an extra shift knob jam nut, why?

...

Do you have to remove the console to install them?
Doh! You're absolutely right, I was thinking of something else - it is in fact a second spacer nut for the supplied white shift ball. I used the extra one in place of the one that was threaded on there when I opened the box just because it put the shift pattern on the knob in the east-west alignment instead of being slanted.

Well you don't have to take the full shifter mounting bracket off but you will have to get the center trim up enough that you can access both of the cable ends at the shifter, you also will have to pull out the factory air box and possibly the battery to get at the two cable ends on the trans. Not much to it really moving at a snails pace it shouldn't take you more than 45min to an hour.
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 16 Jul 2004, 01:52 am
PTGT_Boy PTGT_Boy is offline
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[quote]Originally posted by ptgtcb

The nut is just an extra shift knob jam nut, why?

Argh, now I have to go back and stick the nut on and flip the lever around. Although, I doubt the shifting won't change. To be honest, the shifting is already shortened and doubt fliping around the lever side will do anything at all.
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 16 Jul 2004, 02:04 am
PTGT_Boy PTGT_Boy is offline
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After being a noobie in installing the mopar short shifter. I recorded a record breaking time in installing it: 8 hours and 30 minutes.

I never installed a short shifter in a car, but defintely can be a fustrating experience for someone who isn't quite adept in working with mechanical things. The pictures and advise does help on these boards, but certainly did require some thinking on removing and installing the parts.

Other than having my shifting lever (without the nut), fliped around...... The most noticable difference is shifting to reverse, 1st to 2nd, and 4th to 5th. 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th felt quite the same as the stock shifter. I have a very tiny amount of play, but I think that's due to the stock rubber housing and husrt pivot lever not being quite the same tolerance as stock.

I'm quite happy that shifting is a but faster and smoother. I did not use the booger bushings, I stuck with stock oem bushings.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 16 Jul 2004, 05:43 am
Beacon Beacon is offline
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by PTGT_Boy


Argh, now I have to go back and stick the nut on and flip the lever around. Although, I doubt the shifting won't change. To be honest, the shifting is already shortened and doubt fliping around the lever side will do anything at all.
Well ya only use one, I think they include two in case one has a thread line that will let you tighten down their knob and keep the shift graphic straight. I don't think it matter which side you bolt it on. I put mine on with the bolt heads on the right-hand side. hehe don't sweat the long install their instructions are for **** if you aren't on a first name basis with all the pieces down there. It's not hard to figure out but it does make your more cautious as you're doing it. All told between fussing with clips that wouldn't come off, altering bushings, removing other mounting plates when I finally gave up on that last clip, taking breaks from standing on my head trying to work under that damn bracket and the constant checking and rechecking it took me about 4 hours.

The important thing is it's in and working!

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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 16 Jul 2004, 11:40 am
flashbk2 flashbk2 is offline
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Think of it this way guys... if the labor rate is say $50.00/hr Beacon saved $200.00 and PTGT Boy saved double by doing self install . I took roughly 4 hours to install B&M shifter in my old car 3 years ago. Doing it in my GT with "boogers " and with a painted console to remove took little over 2 hours last year , and that included taking pictures for myself and jeffb of the install which Beacon used /enhanced . I repair machines for a living, it always takes longer the "first" time but most of us learn by doing and get better in the long run . Besides where else can you get frustrated and satisfied @ the same time and not get paid for it ,lol !
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 20 Jul 2004, 12:12 am
purplept purplept is offline
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I received my booger shifter bushings from www.modernperformance.com which costs me $21.99 including shipping. I installed the two on the engine side today and couldn't really tell any difference (I already have the Hurst shifter installed). Maybe the two on the shifter side make more of a difference? I'm not mechanically minded so it took me far too long for the installation. I struggled with getting the large bushing onto the pin. It turns out I had it backwards. The smaller end goes closest to the pin. Had I known that it would have been much easier. I hope the other two bushings go on easy and make a noticeable difference.
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[IMG]|2003 PT GT 5-Speed | Mopar Stage 1 | Mopar 2.5\" Dual Exhaust | Mopar Short-Throw Shifter | Mopar HO Plastic Intake | Mopar Boost Gauge | AGP WGA/BOP | APC Carbon Fiber Taillights | Axis 19x8 Wheels/Yokohama 225/35ZR19 Parada Spec2 Tires | BTG Strut Tower Brace | BTG Billet Shorty Antenna | Eibach Anti-Sway Bars | HKS SSQV BOV | JLM Motor/Tranny Mounts | KW Variant 1 Coilovers | Maxxfab 3\" Downpipe | NGK Iridiums | Prototypepower UCP/CAI v5 | PTeazer Smoothie Roll Pan | Screamin\' Demon Coil/Livewires | StopTech Slotted Rotors/Hawk HPS Pads/Stainless Steel Lines | Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley|
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